CRYING, VELVET, HELP

RELLIK-REEF · Dec 29, 2021

So first let me say I do not have a QT. All fish were introduced together about 2 months ago. Naso, 2 Valmingi, clown tang, purple dottyback, two whiteout blizzard clowns. Yesterday I came home to find the dottyback down on the sand (wifes favorite fish in the tank) dead. There has been absolutely no aggression in the tank, I feed well. I have only add some new corals so I'm not sure if this is where it may have came from.

Pretty sure it's velvet Clown tang, Naso, and one of the Valmingis are staying in the powerheads flow pretty constantly.
I only see spots on the Naso but it was few last night to tons today, one Valmingi has clouded eyes but no spots and stays hidden, read this could be he's now light sensitive. The other one is in the flow or flashing constantly. Clown tang no visible spots but constantly in water flow. The clowns seem fine just doing their normal swimming.

I cannot tear this thing apart, I was reading about (polyp lab medic) does this work? I'll see if I can get it locally or overnight ship.
I am set up with automatic water changes with the Dos 3 gallons a day, salinity, temp, ph, all stay in the same range. Trident shows no drastic fluctuations.
I just traded for a UV from a member here hoping it gets here soon.

Picture of the Valmingi is for the cloudy eye he does not have spots of the parasites on him the marks are how he has looked everytime he goes dark since I received him.

Any promising help would be greatly appreciated.

Lavey29 · Dec 29, 2021

Since some disease treatment involves copper in the medication you can not treat your DT or it will seep into rocks and you will not be able to sustain corals or inverts. QT is recommended for treatment and fallow period for DT.

RELLIK-REEF · Dec 29, 2021

I understand that but I have no options here. I want to know if there is anything that I can treat with that isn't copper. I have enriched their food with garlic and everyone is still eating. Just sucks to see them in this situation. My kiddo is going nuts about it too.

dedragon · Dec 29, 2021

@Jay Hemdal sorry for having you work 2 cases but this one seems very urgent

dedragon · Dec 29, 2021

dw i called in the big guns, Jay Hemdal

RELLIK-REEF · Dec 29, 2021

Thank you

Melanie Fish · Dec 29, 2021

When I had velvet I set up a temporary tank with just a sponge filter so i could treat the fish with copper. I dosed it everyday day with a product called Seed. Everyone lived and it gave my main tank time to be fallow so the velvet could go away. It was a pain but velvet kills so fast it was all i could do at the time. I qt everything now. Good luck

dedragon · Dec 29, 2021

Tank Transfer Method

Tank Transfer Method What It Treats – Marine Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans) only. How To Treat – Tank transfer (TTM) is my favorite method for clearing a fish of Marine Ich, but the prevalence (and similarities) of Marine Velvet Disease can make TTM a risky gamble nowadays. To properly execute...

www.reef2reef.com

maybe buy 2, 20 gallon breeders and set the up as qt tanks for ttm, then go fallow for a while, but waiting on Jay to come in with his verdict

Jay Hemdal · Dec 29, 2021

Rellikeno said:
So first let me say I do not have a QT. All fish were introduced together about 2 months ago. Naso, 2 Valmingi, clown tang, purple dottyback, two whiteout blizzard clowns. Yesterday I came home to find the dottyback down on the sand (wifes favorite fish in the tank) dead. There has been absolutely no aggression in the tank, I feed well. I have only add some new corals so I'm not sure if this is where it may have came from.

Pretty sure it's velvet Clown tang, Naso, and one of the Valmingis are staying in the powerheads flow pretty constantly.
I only see spots on the Naso but it was few last night to tons today, one Valmingi has clouded eyes but no spots and stays hidden, read this could be he's now light sensitive. The other one is in the flow or flashing constantly. Clown tang no visible spots but constantly in water flow. The clowns seem fine just doing their normal swimming.

I cannot tear this thing apart, I was reading about (polyp lab medic) does this work? I'll see if I can get it locally or overnight ship.
I am set up with automatic water changes with the Dos 3 gallons a day, salinity, temp, ph, all stay in the same range. Trident shows no drastic fluctuations.
I just traded for a UV from a member here hoping it gets here soon.

Picture of the Valmingi is for the cloudy eye he does not have spots of the parasites on him the marks are how he has looked everytime he goes dark since I received him.

Any promising help would be greatly appreciated.

The larger spots seem to indicate late-stage marine ich, Cryptocaryon.

Can you post a short video? That would help me confirm their respiration rate, and help decide if it is ich or velvet..

Either way, the problem is that the best treatment would be copper, in a treatment tank. Hyposalinity would work if it is ich, but not if it is velvet (Amyloodinium). With both issues - once fish loss has happened, it is very difficult to stop the progression in time to keep other fish from dying (I know, not very good news, sorry!)

Polyp Lab Medic is a possible reef treatment, but the efficacy is mixed, and most people who have good success with it dose at a higher level and then it isn't truly reef safe.

Jay

JumboShrimp · Dec 29, 2021

Just from that Naso’s photo, I’d say if you don’t get him into Copper a.s.a.p., he won’t live much beyond 72 hours. Keep us posted.

JGT · Dec 29, 2021

I use Hybrid TTM which manages both ich and velvet with great success but I think it’s too late for these guys. Think copper is the only way to go at this point.

RELLIK-REEF · Dec 29, 2021

Well I don't even think I can get these guys out of the DT. They are still so fast and plenty of hiding spots for them. This is so horrible.
Ok I turned the lights on and everyone is now covered can't see it on the clowns. Tried to take a video but can't download it.

RELLIK-REEF · Dec 29, 2021

This is the best I can do for pictures.

RELLIK-REEF · Dec 29, 2021

Okay so I'm

Jay Hemdal said:
The larger spots seem to indicate late-stage marine ich, Cryptocaryon.

Can you post a short video? That would help me confirm their respiration rate, and help decide if it is ich or velvet..

Either way, the problem is that the best treatment would be copper, in a treatment tank. Hyposalinity would work if it is ich, but not if it is velvet (Amyloodinium). With both issues - once fish loss has happened, it is very difficult to stop the progression in time to keep other fish from dying (I know, not very good news, sorry!)

Polyp Lab Medic is a possible reef treatment, but the efficacy is mixed, and most people who have good success with it dose at a higher level and then it isn't truly reef safe.

Jay

So I'm going to purchase a 20 now. What copper do I need to pick up? Heater and air pump? How often on water changes for this treatment? Still offer food? I have plenty of water mixed, and plenty of salt for more. I have 50 gallons for my auto water change. Same temp salinity and ph.

dedragon · Dec 29, 2021

Copper treatment

EDIT: Taking the Hanna copper checker's margin of error into consideration, we are now recommending 2.2-2.3 ppm for Copper Power. This ensures that the copper level is "just right" i.e. not too high, not too low. (y) Copper treatment (updated 5-16-2023) What It Treats: Marine Ich (Cryptocaryon...

humble.fish

dedragon · Dec 29, 2021

How To - Quarantine

How to Setup a Quarantine Tank (updated 4-6-2023) The following are the essentials: Aquarium (10-30 gallons seems to work for most people. A larger QT lets you house more fish and gives you more wiggle room when it comes to ammonia. A smaller QT is cheaper, easier to maintain and can be...

humble.fish

dedragon · Dec 29, 2021

good luck my friend

vetteguy53081 · Dec 29, 2021

Appears to be ich over velvet. With ich, you can count the spots. Also Mucus spores on tang suggest ich.
The best ich treatment is copper-based medication. Rather than treating the main aquarium, move the sick fish to a bare bottomed quarantine or treatment tank. This should be aerated and have the same water conditions as the main aquarium. Coppersafe (My preference) treats both freshwater and saltwater ich, along with other diseases, including Velvet (Oodinium) and other external parasites. However, because it is a copper-based treatment made from chelated copper sulfate. To use Coppersafe, add 1 teaspoon of medication for every 4 gallons of water, or 1 cup of every 190 gallons. The solution will remain active in the tank for more than one month.
Cupramine, a copper-based treatment from Seachem, treats not only saltwater ich, but also other ectoparasites in freshwater and saltwater tanks. An ionic copper medication, rather than chelated copper, it is non-acidic and doesn't damage the biofilter bacteria. To use Cupramine, turn off UV filters and ozone filters, and remove chemical filtration, such as activated carbon. For every 10.5 gallons of water, use 1 mL of treatment, and then wait 48 hours. Repeat the treatment, and leave at this concentration for 14 days. Test the water for copper levels before redosing the tank.

>>>>> WHEN USING ANY COPPER IN WATER - HAVE A RELIABLE TEST KIT TO MONITOR LEVELS. IT'S A MUST <<<

zheka757 · Dec 29, 2021

Rellikeno said:
Okay so I'm

So I'm going to purchase a 20 now. What copper do I need to pick up? Heater and air pump? How often on water changes for this treatment? Still offer food? I have plenty of water mixed, and plenty of salt for more. I have 50 gallons for my auto water change. Same temp salinity and ph.

of you don't want to spend money on quarantine aquariums, buying bins from hardware store is cheaper option. that what i did when i had ich very first time.