Current Quarantine Protocol

[Jay Hemdal]

what would you recommend then?

Prompt treatment with Coppersafe in a tank with no calcium carbonate material or hyposalinity. Neither treatment can be done with invertebrates in the tank though. Hyposalinity also helps to control flukes.
Jay

 

[Crown]

Wow the QT protocol increased to 60+ days now? Any info on that change?

I sifted through a few pages of this thread but i couldn't find any announcement about an update.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Wow the QT protocol increased to 60+ days now? Any info on that change?

I sifted through a few pages of this thread but i couldn't find any announcement about an update.

That’s how long a more comprehensive process takes. 14 days of it is the post quarantine observation period. Some people roll the dice and skip that.

It’s all about cost:benefit - this process assumes that the display tank has valuable fish in it that you want to protect.

Jay

 

[crazyfishmom]

2023 Quarantine Procedures

Jay Hemdal
David Scarborough


Protozoans (Cryptocaryon/ich, Amyloodinium/velvet) and Metazoan trematodes/flukes are by far the most common parasites found on newly acquired fish. A carefully managed quarantine process can effectively eliminate these parasites before adding the fish to your display tank. This process does not control Brooklynella, Uronema, viruses or internal parasites. Those issues however, make up a much smaller number of disease cases in marine fish.

Quarantine tank Requirements:

Tank must be large enough to comfortably handle the number and size of fish for up to 9 weeks.

• Tank should have a filtration system that has completed the nitrogen cycle. Canisters, HOB overflow filters, or appropriately sized sponge filters are acceptable.
• The filtration system must not use carbon or other absorbing/adsorbing filtrants (e.g. Polyfilter) that might absorb copper or medication. NO calcareous rock LIVE or DEAD
• Bare bottom should be used. A saucer with non-absorbing sand can be utilized for wrasses, gobies, blennies or other species which are overly stressed by the bare bottom. Painting the underside of the tank black can also help
• Heater/thermometer
• Removable structure, e.g. PVC pipe may be used to provide hiding places for the fish.
• Ambient light will often be adequate for the QT tank.
• A means to maintain oxygen levels should be available. Air stones and sponge filters are usually adequate.
• A lid should be used to prevent the fish from jumping out of the tank.
• Set salinity level and temperature to the same levels as in your Display Tank.

Days 1 – 2: Observation - let the fish settle in and determine proper diet.

• Set QT temperature to 78 - 80 degrees F.
• Acclimate the new fish to the QT:
  • Measure salinity of the water in which the fish arrived.
  • Adjust salinity in QT to within 2 ppt of the salinity of the water in which the fish arrived.
  • Acclimate the fish to the QT gradually over 45 minutes.
• Observe the fish for any symptoms which might influence the treatment(s) you should administer.
• Determine if the fish are eating adequately to proceed.

Day 2: Begin Copper Treatment

• Add Coppersafe to the QT to achieve a concentration of 2.25 to 2.50 ppm over the course of 24 hours. This can be done in two doses 12 hours apart or multiple smaller doses if you prefer. Coppersafe will not be effective until a concentration over 2.0 ppm is present. A target of 2.25 ppm will allow for fluctuations without the risk of falling below the 2.0 ppm threshold. Hanna Copper checker is the most accurate test to use.
• Never use ammonia removing products or other reducing agents (dechlorinator) when dosing copper. Most products bind copper with an amine to reduce toxicity to the fish. Reducing agents break that bond, releasing free copper that can harm the fish.
• Feed and top off tank water normally.

Days 3 – 32: Continue Copper Treatment

• Monitor copper ppm regularly. If the copper level remains steady day to day, you can test less often, but if the concentration falls below 2.0 ppm, you may need to restart the 30-day count for the copper treatment.
• Monitor water quality parameters as you would for your display tank.
• If the copper or ammonia levels ever exceed guidelines, be prepared to administer water changes (pre dosed with copper) to correct the problem.

Day 34: Copper Done

• Begin copper removal through water changes.
• Binding agents Cuprisorb may be used to hasten the removal process.
• Carbon is usually too slow or ineffective at removing copper and should not be relied upon without adequate monitoring.

Day 35: Praziquantel Treatment #1

• Confirm copper has been removed adequately to drop the concentration to less than 1 ppm. Copper and Prazi should not be administered simultaneously.
• Add Prazipro to the QT per the instructions on the label.
• Ensure the additional oxygenation source is working. This treatment will potentially reduce the oxygen levels within the QT to critical levels without additional air flow.

Day 42, Day 49: Praziquantel Treatment #2, #3

• Add Prazipro to the QT per the instructions on the label, 7 days apart. Spacing needed for these treatments is based on killing new flukes hatching from previously laid eggs. The time interval is not well known. A range of 7 to 9 days seems to give the best results.

Day 64: New Fish QT complete

• Observe fish for 2 weeks after last prazi dose. Note: many public aquariums do not move fish out of quarantine unless they are in the middle of a full copper treatment. This vastly reduces the risk from Cryptocaryon or Amyloodinium. To use that method, substitute a copper treatment for this 2 week observation period, and move the fish out around day 10.
• Conduct a 5-minute fresh water dip if the fish is of a species particularly susceptible to Neobenedenia flukes. If flukes are detected, reduce QT salinity to 50% and hold for an additional 35 days.
• Confirm salinity and temperature of QT and DT are the same, add fish to DT.

Variation from this process:
Do not use copper on sharks, rays, eels or flashlight fish.
Wild caught clownfish are prone to Brooklynella, and may need formalin treatments.

All wild caught fish have a potentially high mortality rate from a variety of other reasons, just be aware that losing fish during this quarantine time can happen.

Are there any studies out there where hyposalinity and UV treatment have been combined for quarantine for ich prevention/eradication? I would think that they would potentially have an additive effect where UV might be able to lead to a reduction in quarantine time but have been unable to find anything concrete. Any thoughts would be great. Thank you!

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Are there any studies out there where hyposalinity and UV treatment have been combined for quarantine for ich prevention/eradication? I would think that they would potentially have an additive effect where UV might be able to lead to a reduction in quarantine time but have been unable to find anything concrete. Any thoughts would be great. Thank you!

Hyposalinity alone is a good control for ich, so you don’t need UV, but it won’t hurt. Since UV does not control the tomont stage at all, it will not shorten the treatment time.
Jay

Jay

 

[crazyfishmom]

Hyposalinity alone is a good control for ich, so you don’t need UV, but it won’t hurt. Since UV does not control the tomont stage at all, it will not shorten the treatment time.
Jay

Jay

Thank you!

 

[JayM]

Are there any studies out there where hyposalinity and UV treatment have been combined for quarantine for ich prevention/eradication? I would think that they would potentially have an additive effect where UV might be able to lead to a reduction in quarantine time but have been unable to find anything concrete. Any thoughts would be great. Thank you!

Theoretically UV could eradicate ich, but in practice it’d be impossible. You’d have to push every parasite through the UV at exactly the right moment in its life cycle, and for exactly the right amount of time.

 

[crazyfishmom]

Theoretically UV could eradicate ich, but in practice it’d be impossible. You’d have to push every parasite through the UV at exactly the right moment in its life cycle, and for exactly the right amount of time.

I guess I’m thinking about it kind of like I would think about TTM where the parasites in the water column would be taken care of and I’d be reducing the parasitic load over time significantly such that the cycle would be reduced.

 

[JayM]

I guess I’m thinking about it kind of like I would think about TTM where the parasites in the water column would be taken care of and I’d be reducing the parasitic load over time significantly such that the cycle would be reduced.

I think that’s the thought behind UV for management. It can kill enough of the parasites to keep them at a level that’s low enough to not overwhelm the fish, but it just isn’t possible to eliminate all of the parasites.

Or maybe it’s just that it’s not possible to know that they’ve all been eliminated.

 

[crazyfishmom]

I think that’s the thought behind UV for management. It can kill enough of the parasites to keep them at a level that’s low enough to not overwhelm the fish, but it just isn’t possible to eliminate all of the parasites.

Or maybe it’s just that it’s not possible to know that they’ve all been eliminated.

The not “knowing” is definitely nerve wrecking. I’ll just stick to the full protocol. I put the UV in the QT tank either way and figure if anything it might help make sick fish feel better sooner so can’t hurt.

 

[dandi]

Jay,
This is a very informative thread. Thanks so much for dedicating so much time to R2R!
I am in the early stages of designing a fish room.
Given the tank will be 96 x 30 x 24 I will want to stock it with a decent amount of fish.
This is going to require numerous QT cycles to accomplish.
How many fish do you recommend QTing at the same time?
What size QT system should I plan for? I have room so size isn't an issue.
Is a wet/dry sump with bio balls an acceptable approach?
Any advice would be appreciated.
Happy reefing ... can't wait until I can back into the water

Jay, thanks again as well as the contribution of others.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Jay,
This is a very informative thread. Thanks so much for dedicating so much time to R2R!
I am in the early stages of designing a fish room.
Given the tank will be 96 x 30 x 24 I will want to stock it with a decent amount of fish.
This is going to require numerous QT cycles to accomplish.
How many fish do you recommend QTing at the same time?
What size QT system should I plan for? I have room so size isn't an issue.
Is a wet/dry sump with bio balls an acceptable approach?
Any advice would be appreciated.
Happy reefing ... can't wait until I can back into the water

Jay, thanks again as well as the contribution of others.

Thanks for the kind words. Generally, I use a quarantine system that is about 25% of the volume of the displays to be filled. You can usually fill a display then, with three quarantine cycles, maybe even two.
One issue with small quarantine tanks is that they may be physically too small for any single fish if you buy them large. For example, let’s say you have a 200 gallon tank and only a 20 gallon quarantine - you will have difficulty running tangs through that small of a tank.
Also, it is very important that every quarantine tanks has a solidly operating bio filter in it. Bio balls don’t have nearly as much surface area as other media: sponges, siporax and other non-calcium media.
Finally, if you have quarantine tanks in the same room as your display, biosecurity can be an issue:

Biosecurity

A short introduction to aquarium biosecurity

www.reef2reef.com

Jay

 

[dandi]

Thanks for the kind words. Generally, I use a quarantine system that is about 25% of the volume of the displays to be filled. You can usually fill a display then, with three quarantine cycles, maybe even two.
One issue with small quarantine tanks is that they may be physically too small for any single fish if you buy them large. For example, let’s say you have a 200 gallon tank and only a 20 gallon quarantine - you will have difficulty running tangs through that small of a tank.
Also, it is very important that every quarantine tanks has a solidly operating bio filter in it. Bio balls don’t have nearly as much surface area as other media: sponges, siporax and other non-calcium media.
Finally, if you have quarantine tanks in the same room as your display, biosecurity can be an issue:

Biosecurity

A short introduction to aquarium biosecurity

www.reef2reef.com

Jay

Jay, all I can say is thanks for all of your input. I just became a supporting member. I encourage others to do the same so we can benefit for the combined wisdom of experts. Been in this hobby for six decades on and off. I tip my hat to you all.
all the best and happy reefing
Dan

 

[jerl77]

so jay can i use ceramic media or marine pure in my rack system i am building ?????

 

[Jay Hemdal]

so jay can i use ceramic media or marine pure in my rack system i am building ?????

Sure - any non calcium bio media works. I often use sponge filters though, they can be moved from tank to take and can be pre charged with bacteria by running them in an established tank for a few months prior to use.

Jay

 

[Black Clover]

2023 Quarantine Procedures

Jay Hemdal
David Scarborough


Protozoans (Cryptocaryon/ich, Amyloodinium/velvet) and Metazoan trematodes/flukes are by far the most common parasites found on newly acquired fish. A carefully managed quarantine process can effectively eliminate these parasites before adding the fish to your display tank. This process does not control Brooklynella, Uronema, viruses or internal parasites. Those issues however, make up a much smaller number of disease cases in marine fish.

Quarantine tank Requirements:

Tank must be large enough to comfortably handle the number and size of fish for up to 9 weeks.

• Tank should have a filtration system that has completed the nitrogen cycle. Canisters, HOB overflow filters, or appropriately sized sponge filters are acceptable.
• The filtration system must not use carbon or other absorbing/adsorbing filtrants (e.g. Polyfilter) that might absorb copper or medication. NO calcareous rock LIVE or DEAD
• Bare bottom should be used. A saucer with non-absorbing sand can be utilized for wrasses, gobies, blennies or other species which are overly stressed by the bare bottom. Painting the underside of the tank black can also help
• Heater/thermometer
• Removable structure, e.g. PVC pipe may be used to provide hiding places for the fish.
• Ambient light will often be adequate for the QT tank.
• A means to maintain oxygen levels should be available. Air stones and sponge filters are usually adequate.
• A lid should be used to prevent the fish from jumping out of the tank.
• Set salinity level and temperature to the same levels as in your Display Tank.

Days 1 – 2: Observation - let the fish settle in and determine proper diet.

• Set QT temperature to 78 - 80 degrees F.
• Acclimate the new fish to the QT:
  • Measure salinity of the water in which the fish arrived.
  • Adjust salinity in QT to within 2 ppt of the salinity of the water in which the fish arrived.
  • Acclimate the fish to the QT gradually over 45 minutes.
• Observe the fish for any symptoms which might influence the treatment(s) you should administer.
• Determine if the fish are eating adequately to proceed.

Day 2: Begin Copper Treatment

• Add Coppersafe to the QT to achieve a concentration of 2.25 to 2.50 ppm over the course of 24 hours. This can be done in two doses 12 hours apart or multiple smaller doses if you prefer. Coppersafe will not be effective until a concentration over 2.0 ppm is present. A target of 2.25 ppm will allow for fluctuations without the risk of falling below the 2.0 ppm threshold. Hanna Copper checker is the most accurate test to use.
• Never use ammonia removing products or other reducing agents (dechlorinator) when dosing copper. Most products bind copper with an amine to reduce toxicity to the fish. Reducing agents break that bond, releasing free copper that can harm the fish.
• Feed and top off tank water normally.

Days 3 – 32: Continue Copper Treatment

• Monitor copper ppm regularly. If the copper level remains steady day to day, you can test less often, but if the concentration falls below 2.0 ppm, you may need to restart the 30-day count for the copper treatment.
• Monitor water quality parameters as you would for your display tank.
• If the copper or ammonia levels ever exceed guidelines, be prepared to administer water changes (pre dosed with copper) to correct the problem.

Day 34: Copper Done

• Begin copper removal through water changes.
• Binding agents Cuprisorb may be used to hasten the removal process.
• Carbon is usually too slow or ineffective at removing copper and should not be relied upon without adequate monitoring.

Day 35: Praziquantel Treatment #1

• Confirm copper has been removed adequately to drop the concentration to less than 1 ppm. Copper and Prazi should not be administered simultaneously.
• Add Prazipro to the QT per the instructions on the label.
• Ensure the additional oxygenation source is working. This treatment will potentially reduce the oxygen levels within the QT to critical levels without additional air flow.

Day 42, Day 49: Praziquantel Treatment #2, #3

• Add Prazipro to the QT per the instructions on the label, 7 days apart. Spacing needed for these treatments is based on killing new flukes hatching from previously laid eggs. The time interval is not well known. A range of 7 to 9 days seems to give the best results.

Day 64: New Fish QT complete

• Observe fish for 2 weeks after last prazi dose. Note: many public aquariums do not move fish out of quarantine unless they are in the middle of a full copper treatment. This vastly reduces the risk from Cryptocaryon or Amyloodinium. To use that method, substitute a copper treatment for this 2 week observation period, and move the fish out around day 10.
• Conduct a 5-minute fresh water dip if the fish is of a species particularly susceptible to Neobenedenia flukes. If flukes are detected, reduce QT salinity to 50% and hold for an additional 35 days.
• Confirm salinity and temperature of QT and DT are the same, add fish to DT.

Variation from this process:
Do not use copper on sharks, rays, eels or flashlight fish.
Wild caught clownfish are prone to Brooklynella, and may need formalin treatments.

All wild caught fish have a potentially high mortality rate from a variety of other reasons, just be aware that losing fish during this quarantine time can happen.

Hi Jay.

Any advice for Canadians who cannot get copper?

Thanks!

 

[Black Clover]

Hi Jay.

Any advice for Canadians who cannot get copper?

Thanks!

 

[mehaffydr]

Hi Jay.

Any advice for Canadians who cannot get copper?

Thanks!

Maybe drive down to the US and pick some up

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Hi Jay.

Any advice for Canadians who cannot get copper?

Thanks!

Yes, that’s a tough problem. My second choice would be hyposalinity. It works great for ich and flukes, just not velvet.

Hyposalinity

Hyposalinity Jay Hemdal 2021 This term refers to a long-term bath treatment for marine fishes in which the salt content of the water is lowered and held below the point that certain parasites can survive. The salt level reached, and the time of the treatment are the two variables...

www.reef2reef.com

Third choice would be tank transfer method, but that has more drawbacks.

Jay

 

[AquaLogic]

Thanks for this great guide. I would follow the months long process if I were adding to a large and established display. In the past, I did no quarantine at all, because I was not yet well educated on the benefits.

I'm starting up a 10 gallon nano and will be doing only 1 - 3 small fish, and adding to a new tank, so following the shorter BRS style 80/20 is going to make more sense for me I think, rather than a very long quarantine. The only issue is that furan-2 is no longer a thing. Is Seachem polyguard an acceptable substitute, or is it better to use pure nitrofurazone?