DIY LED Assistance Needed
- Thread starter CCK_8814
- Start date
- Tagged users None
WallyB
REEF Techno-Geek
You probably have this.
https://www.stevesleds.com/The-Double--Digital-Dimming-LED-Driver_p_164.html
But look at the SPEC.
ON THE STEVE V8 Module (INPUTS) LEFT SIDE
THE 24V is INPUT from your POWER SUPPLY. Along with G for Ground
That is all you need to power up the MOdule and Runng your LED's at full brightness.
*** IF YOU HAVE PROPER # of LEDS based on he Voltage you are providing ** (which Steves' spec says up to 24Volts)
The then you have DIMMING CONTROL (3 choices)
1) I didn't find any details, but I think DIM is the PWM input so that you can control dimming from a PWM signal.
2) 5 V is 5 Volts DC out (nothing more)
3) then you have ON BOARD control (POT). A simple POT at Correct Resisitance will dim manually by turning a POT Nob. You can only DIM down.
Last edited:
OP
OP
1) So you have 6 LED series chain that works. - Correct, when wired to the single channel driver
2) You have one SINGLE module that works (full brightness) - correct
This is currently how it’s wired and showing the led string both wired & working. The dimmer/potentiometers not working though.
WallyB
REEF Techno-Geek
Dimming will most likely just be a POT between the TWO PINS labeled pot.
You don't need 5Volts to run it.
That is how my DIFFERENT module works. Just a POT, not need for 5 Volts.
It' get's it voltage on board.
But you need proper Pot resistance. Most will work.
You don't need 5Volts to run it.
That is how my DIFFERENT module works. Just a POT, not need for 5 Volts.
It' get's it voltage on board.
But you need proper Pot resistance. Most will work.
WallyB
REEF Techno-Geek
Then it should DIM.I have a potentiometer wired into those 2 pins.
I have a different kind of controller, and a POT does the dimming.
Is your pot ok. (Did you fry it when hooked up wrong before. That would SMOKE Briefly and smell)
You can actually test this way.
Nothing Connected to POT PINs. Will give full or min brightnesss.
Short (BETWEEN POT PINS) will give opposite.
WallyB
REEF Techno-Geek
If it works like my Module, a SHORT BETWEEN POT (-) and POT (+) will be the opposite of OPEN, thus OPPOSITE of MAX Brightness, or MAx CURRENT.
In between SHORT AND OPEN, is resistance that sets brightness (Half, Quarter, or 3/4).
So if YOUR LEDS are FULLY ON when nothing connected to POT....They will go MIN or OFF when SHORT ON (+- POT)
Just briefly short the two wires going to POT. It should blink the LED's off, or min brightness.
WallyB
REEF Techno-Geek
That means part of the Dimming circuit is busted. Possibly a transistor.
There could be another reason, but I highly doubt it. Maybe the 5 Volts needs to be hooked up thru the pot. DOUBT IT, but you never know.
There is a clue that says ARDIUNO INPUT. Ardiuno is 5 Volt.
So is it possible you need to wire 5 Volt output thru the Pot to Vary the Voltage. But that doesn't make any sense.
Do you want to try the same with one of the Channels on your DUAL driver?
Hook it up and briefly short the POT pin. It's should blink.
OP
OP
I can’t get the dual driver to power on at all (led indicator on the driver does not come on nor does the led string). I’m pretty sure I fried it when I originally started assembling this
WallyB
REEF Techno-Geek
I just tested my current driver.
1) If nothing hooked up to POT, I get full brightness.
2) A short goes off.
3) Reisistance dims
I may be wrong....
but it appears your SINGLE Driver won't dim because the transistor that does the dimming control is FRIED.
Sorry to say this.
But I could be wrong. Doubt I am wrong.
The good news, is your LEDs are good. Your Power supply good too (most expensive part you have)
A new Module to dim will cost you around $11.99 for a single, $15.00 for double. Both reduced SALE price (on steve's web site).
The POT is $0.99 and look at the spec. 5,000OHM (REVERSE)
1) If nothing hooked up to POT, I get full brightness.
2) A short goes off.
3) Reisistance dims
I may be wrong....
but it appears your SINGLE Driver won't dim because the transistor that does the dimming control is FRIED.
Sorry to say this.
But I could be wrong. Doubt I am wrong.
The good news, is your LEDs are good. Your Power supply good too (most expensive part you have)
A new Module to dim will cost you around $11.99 for a single, $15.00 for double. Both reduced SALE price (on steve's web site).
The POT is $0.99 and look at the spec. 5,000OHM (REVERSE)
Last edited:
OP
OP
My guess is you’re right as that was my thought as well. I’m currently looking for a new dual channel driver locally, if not I’ll order one as well as a new single channel as start over. Thanks for all your help!
WallyB
REEF Techno-Geek
You have a nice Power Supply, so you may just want to get a Cheap Steve' LED Driver replacement.
I was going to go that way until I found easier all in one Current Drivers.
You just hook up AC power to Adapter type WATERPROOF SEALED unit, and a POT using wire and it work with Dimming.
YOU WOULD NEED ONE for each bank of LEDS you want to DIM.
The only thing you need to figure out is # of LED you want to control and then pick the right Driver based on Voltage/Current.
Like these (but they are more expensive). I like the WATER PROOF IDEA.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/MEAN-WELL/HLG-240H-C1400A?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvV8Y9YugmIgt4sE%2bg9jfCg60puG1hh1axxarU9vzCgkw==
All the best......Sorry things didn't work on first try. It's call learning. I learned a lot Frying things.
OH, and one thing I learned when I made my DIY LED Fixture.
Salt mist spray isn't good for the LEDS.
Mine broke eventually (corrosion). I had to replace TWO of LED's.
I had my fixture really close to Tank surface water spray...The spray accumulated and I guess make a short across the LED + -. It flickered and then died.
NOW I have a CLOUDY ACRYLIC cover Plate, which is also great as a DIFFUSER to make the LED's blend nicely for less DISCO BALL EFFECT.
I was going to go that way until I found easier all in one Current Drivers.
You just hook up AC power to Adapter type WATERPROOF SEALED unit, and a POT using wire and it work with Dimming.
YOU WOULD NEED ONE for each bank of LEDS you want to DIM.
The only thing you need to figure out is # of LED you want to control and then pick the right Driver based on Voltage/Current.
Like these (but they are more expensive). I like the WATER PROOF IDEA.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/MEAN-WELL/HLG-240H-C1400A?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvV8Y9YugmIgt4sE%2bg9jfCg60puG1hh1axxarU9vzCgkw==
All the best......Sorry things didn't work on first try. It's call learning. I learned a lot Frying things.
OH, and one thing I learned when I made my DIY LED Fixture.
Salt mist spray isn't good for the LEDS.
Mine broke eventually (corrosion). I had to replace TWO of LED's.
I had my fixture really close to Tank surface water spray...The spray accumulated and I guess make a short across the LED + -. It flickered and then died.
NOW I have a CLOUDY ACRYLIC cover Plate, which is also great as a DIFFUSER to make the LED's blend nicely for less DISCO BALL EFFECT.
Last edited:
WallyB
REEF Techno-Geek
Oh, and one other LESSON.
Be careful when you get your LED fixture Fixed.
I fried more than Electronics. I fried my sensitive Corals since I had the WHITE leds' set to 100%.
Blues can be higher, but White need to be at 10%, maybe tops 20% at t beginning.
Or fixture REALLY REALLY HIGH.
Be careful when you get your LED fixture Fixed.
I fried more than Electronics. I fried my sensitive Corals since I had the WHITE leds' set to 100%.
Blues can be higher, but White need to be at 10%, maybe tops 20% at t beginning.
Or fixture REALLY REALLY HIGH.
Similar threads
- Price: 250
- Shipping NOT Available
