Des Westcott
Well-Known Member
Howdy Zaheer
DIY Radeon clone?
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Howdy Zaheer
ZaheerR
New Member
@MikeyA just a quick question. Or if anyone can assist. Would 3 or 4 pucks be able to run on 5 LDD 1000H meanwell drivers? So basically connecting the 3 or 4 pucks, depending how many I get, to each other in series. Then wire the channels of the different pucks to each other. Eg. Puck 1 channel One to Puck 2 Channel Two then to the Driver for channel 2?
Would these drivers be able to run a 3 or 4 puck series?
Thanks
Would these drivers be able to run a 3 or 4 puck series?
Thanks
MikeyA
Active Member
@ZaheerR, I think you may be a little confused how the ldd works. So you can run 3 or 4 pucks in series depending on your power supply. The ldd are strictly for channel intensity control (which in turn can control color). So if your pucks have 5 channels each puck, then you'll need 5 ldd's and a 5up channel board to mount the ldd's onto. Also you'll need a controller with pwm capabilities to control the power input to each channel.
MikeyA
Active Member
The ldd H meanwell drivers use pwm input to control how much voltage each led gets. The ldd's get power from the power supply. Look at the ldd's as a valve (for lack of better term). The power supply provides power to the ldd and the controller tells the ldd how much power to push to each channel on the pucks
There are 3 things you need to understand
1) Diode voltage adds in series
2) ldd drivers are simple voltage regulators for the most part and lowers the voltage to keep the current draw at a particular setpoint. They can't raise voltage.
3) They also can't output the same maximum voltage of the power supply.
There are losses. Usually around 3 volts
A 48v power supply only had 45v available to use.
Sooo pucks or strings if all are wired in series and you have a 48v power so you only have 43 volt
If your diodes have a voltage spec of say 3.4 volts so you can run 12 diodes in series .
1) Diode voltage adds in series
2) ldd drivers are simple voltage regulators for the most part and lowers the voltage to keep the current draw at a particular setpoint. They can't raise voltage.
3) They also can't output the same maximum voltage of the power supply.
There are losses. Usually around 3 volts
A 48v power supply only had 45v available to use.
Sooo pucks or strings if all are wired in series and you have a 48v power so you only have 43 volt
If your diodes have a voltage spec of say 3.4 volts so you can run 12 diodes in series .
ZaheerR
New Member
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Thanks
MikeyA
Active Member
Well, I'm uncertain at what ma you'll be driving the pucks at and without truly sitting down and doing the math, just a rough estimate of each Chan at 1000ma (which I know every channel can't handle 1000ma) at 4 pucks. I'd run a meanwell hlg 320h-54a. I also believe in leaving room/ power for expansion.
ASSUMING each channel is 12v each and you run 4 pucks in series you have 48V need per channel..I'll be using these pucks. So let's say I go with 4 pucks, which one would you suggest I go with?5 Channel Custom Made Cree Semileds 21 Multichip LED Array Coral Aquarium Light | eBay
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Thanks
NOTE I now see 14-15V V(f) on the violet/uv channel
SOO 15 x 4 = 60 Volts THAT is an issue..
AS AN EXERCISE I WILL ASSUME 12V each FOR..THE ..MOMENT.
And you will use 1 LDD-H (not LDD-L) per channel.
Technically you need 51V per channel (remember the 3v loss w/ the LDD)
A 56V dc power supply would ASSURE you are running all channels correctly.
As to wattage that is even a bit harder to estimate BUT again assuming 48V (4x12) per channel and 1000mA ldd per channel:
48 x 1 = 48W x 5 = 240 Watts.
So a 56V 240Watt power supply would be fine..
NOW back to reality a bit and WHAT to do w/ the 14-15V channel.
2 Choices split the array into 2 series/parallel sets which means you need 24V ps and a 2000mA driver per set because current is SPLIT in 2 due to the 2 parallel branches.
REALISTICALLY you will just double the number of ldd so you have 2 per color 1 for 2 pucks and only need a power supply of 28V...
But instead of 5 drivers you need 10.
And again you need to add voltage due to the losses w/ the LDD.
So going w/ the nearest and easiest choice a 36V power supply @240 Watts. Well more due to the violets.
24x 1 x 8 + 28 x 1 x 2 = 248Watts
Add 10% for good measure ..
Bottom line 36v 350Watt power supply (overkill but safe)
10 LDD-1000h (or ldd-HW if you want to work with wires) ..1 per every 2
series pucks..
I suspect this is the most common LDD based arrangement w/ 4 pucks
One can run 3 in series w/ a 48V power supply but leaves an odd 1 puck
You can add big AC/DC drivers to run 4 in series w/ usually 10V dimming.
PART of your decision is HOW (if you do) you want to control them.
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A single one can drive all channels (all channels in parallel and 4 boards in series) MAYBE but:
1) USE the "AB" one to adj. both voltage and amps and still have dimming.
2)Dimming will be global (no channel control)
3) running 5 parallel strings is problematic.
Now to the "maybe" part.
UV/violet is listed at 14-15V ..the above driver can be tweaked to 58V
14 x 4 = 56V.... 15 x 4 is 60V
NOT that the listed voltages are realistic and they don't list the current that voltage occurs..
2.97- 5.95A adj range
5.95/5 =1190mA per channel
2.97/5 = 594mA per channel
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Steven Garland
Valuable Member
3535 is a diode size.
Steven Garland
Valuable Member
Are the Shines still available ?
Steven Garland
Valuable Member
I do have blanks and some LEDs, upon request
Do you mind shooting me a PM with diode choices,pricing and dimenions of the board pretty pretty please lol ?
danielch2008
Community Member
I did buy in aliexpress two this punk. What need buy to this led configuration with app in cell?
See here tell very much... LDD, but no understand .
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All the information is there to figure out the drivers and power supply.
First question though is do you want every channel to be used. You can combine some to save on drivers though it will generally mean a larger voltage power supply.
As it is designed.. 8 LDD drivers. The ONE yellow may be problematic.
LDD-LW's go down to 2V though.
"W" has wires for ease of construction if you don't buy a driver board.
Many driver boards require a controller though or they force the drivers to be off.
Red and black go to the DC power out supply of course.
You can use either hdd-L's or hdd-W's (HDD-LW, HDD-HW)
Power supply 24V 100W will do.
I would suggest running violets/uv lower than 700mA though (350-500) so they last longer.
Your amperage is your choice btw.
Hopefully I got an idea what you are asking.
If you combine the violet and UV in series like I did for red/yellow the total voltage is 19.6 and would only need one 500mA driver
Of course you now have only 9.8 watts compared to as designed 13.7 x .7 + 6.6 x .7 = 14.21 watts.
At 350mA = 6.9
OH DO NOT turn it on without being mounted to a heat sink..
Lastly according to the sheet the max required voltage is 14V
LDD's need 3V more than max so the minumum power supply would be 17-18V.
Again about 100W
If you do combine channels stick to LIKE colors like UV/V B/RB
With some combinations you would need to get a larger voltage power supply
B/DeepB = 26V + 4 (LDD adjustment)= 30V so 36V ps
LDD's act as a VOLTAGE regulator so more voltage is never really an issue.That is how they control
the current.
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danielch2008
Community Member
All the information is there to figure out the drivers and power supply.
First question though is do you want every channel to be used. You can combine some to save on drivers though it will generally mean a larger voltage power supply.
As it is designed.. 8 LDD drivers. The ONE yellow may be problematic.
LDD-LW's go down to 2V though.
"W" has wires for ease of construction if you don't buy a driver board.
Many driver boards require a controller though or they force the drivers to be off.
Red and black go to the DC power out supply of course.
You can use either hdd-L's or hdd-W's (HDD-LW, HDD-HW)
Power supply 24V 100W will do.
I would suggest running violets/uv lower than 700mA though (350-500) so they last longer.
Your amperage is your choice btw.
Hopefully I got an idea what you are asking.
If you combine the violet and UV in series like I did for red/yellow the total voltage is 19.6 and would only need one 500mA driver
Of course you now have only 9.8 watts compared to as designed 13.7 x .7 + 6.6 x .7 = 14.21 watts.
At 350mA = 6.9
OH DO NOT turn it on without being mounted to a heat sink..
Lastly according to the sheet the max required voltage is 14V
LDD's need 3V more than max so the minumum power supply would be 17-18V.
Again about 100W
If you do combine channels stick to LIKE colors like UV/V B/RB
With some combinations you would need to get a larger voltage power supply
B/DeepB = 26V + 4 (LDD adjustment)= 30V so 36V ps
LDD's act as a VOLTAGE regulator so more voltage is never really an issue.That is how they control
the current.
can i replace the LDDs by TC421 controller? Do these TC420 and TC421 work as LDDs?
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