Glb's hacks, tips, and other useful information

[glb]

I put the actual ml/min on top of each BRS dosing pump so I can easily make adjustments with the reeftronics site calculator. FYI BRS 1.1ml/min pumps have never been actually 1.1ml in my experience, lol.

 

[glb]

I’ve had this thread for a while and want to get it started back up again. Please share your hacks and tips that make reefing easier or just more cool!

 

[glb]

Always rinse out the cap of wood glue with water after you use it. I’ve learned this one the hard way when I go back to use it and the cap is glued shut. At that point I realized how waterproof this stuff really is!

 

[xxkenny90xx]

Love the thread!
Diy magnet cleaner frag rack anyone?

 

[glb]

Reeftronics.net has a great dosing calculator that will write programming for your Apex. It’s super easy!

Apex Dosing Program Generator

Makes it easy to program your Apex for dosing of calcium and alkalinity supplements

www.reeftronics.net

 

[glb]

Love the thread!
Diy magnet cleaner frag rack anyone?

Very creative!

 

[glb]

I moved my alk and ca dosing tubing from the return chamber in the sump to the return nozzle in the display tank because I was getting buildup on my tunze osmolator glass sensor. Thanks to great customer service from Roger at Tunze, I soaked the glass sensor in vinegar and it’s running fine now (and he’s the one who suggested moving the tubing). For the tubing, I connected them to the return nozzle with zip ties, put a lego in between them to keep them apart, then wrapped everything with silicone tape to keep the tubing secure and out of the DT water. I labeled the tubing and wrapped the labels with tape so they’d stay put. Now the ato sensor shouldn’t have any more buildup, and the alk and ca are less likely to cause buildup in my sump pumps because they’re up top now. Thanks again Roger!

 

[xxkenny90xx]

I moved my alk and ca dosing tubing from the return chamber in the sump to the return nozzle in the display tank because I was getting buildup on my tunze osmolator glass sensor. Thanks to great customer service from Roger at Tunze, I soaked the glass sensor in vinegar and it’s running fine now (and he’s the one who suggested moving the tubing). For the tubing, I connected them to the return nozzle with zip ties, put a lego in between them to keep them apart, then wrapped everything with silicone tape to keep the tubing secure and out of the DT water. I labeled the tubing and wrapped the labels with tape so they’d stay put. Now the ato sensor shouldn’t have any more buildup, and the alk and ca are less likely to cause buildup in my sump pumps because they’re up top now. Thanks again Roger!

Nice! You know what I don't have enough of on my set up? Definitely legos!

 

[glb]

Nice! You know what I don't have enough of on my set up? Definitely legos!

Legos are the best! I use them all over my tank.

 

[glb]

It’s been a while since I’ve posted but I have some new hacks to report. I’ve labeled my alk and ca dosers with how much they actually dose in a minute (see post above) and the current dosage amount for each (with the date that dose started). The date helps me eyeball when consumption is going up or down due to things like changing the CO2 media or when it is depleted. Also, when I need to change the dosage, it’s much easier to use the reeftronics calculator because all the info I need is right there!

 

[glb]

I just emptied out the shower I had been using for my tank stuff and needed to relocate some things. I hung my net for feeding mysis shrimp from underneath the tank with a small hook so it can drip dry before I put it away. 3M Command strips make it easy to remove hooks in the future if needed.

 

[glb]

I just installed a uv sterilizer and recommend using silicone tubing instead of vinyl. Vinyl is very stiff and hard to work with, and silicone is flexible and seems to hug the barb fitting better. Also, I used Plasto-Joint sealant on threads instead of teflon tape to seal up the small leaks I had.