Ich/Velvet ID

[Barrett]

You could use a canister filter.

 

[Humblefish]

What would you all recommend for filtration on the 100G setup? I've got everything in transit for this evening or already here with the exception of filtration. I'm fine running it a few days or so without any (I have a gravel vacuum which is separated for QT use only) but know that's not a longer term solution.

You should be able to fit HOBs on a large rubbermaid. I'd go with an Aquaclear 110 on one side, Bio-wheel 400 on the other. Not only will that help with biological filtration, but will provide surface agitation/gas exchange throughout the trough.

 

[joro]

You should be able to fit HOBs on a large rubbermaid. I'd go with an Aquaclear 110 on one side, Bio-wheel 400 on the other. Not only will that help with biological filtration, but will provide surface agitation/gas exchange throughout the trough.

So you think I need both even with two powerheads running? I've always run the AquaClears on the previous QT/HTs and think I have a AquaClear 70 on the 29G which I know won't work for this size.

 

[Humblefish]

So you think I need both even with two powerheads running? I've always run the AquaClears on the previous QT/HTs and think I have a AquaClear 70 on the 29G which I know won't work for this size.

IMO; you can never have too much surface agitation to provide additional O2. Unless the flow is blowing the fish around, that's when it becomes a problem.

 

[joro]

IMO; you can never have too much surface agitation to provide additional O2. Unless the flow is blowing the fish around, that's when it becomes a problem.

Fair enough and I was planning on atleast one of the powerheads being closer to the top breaking the surface as well. Let me start with the 110 and see how it looks (I'll pick that up shortly). Certainly glad to have a bunch of local stores and Amazon same-day delivery for these types of situations Also picked up some PVC pipes and a screen material (non metal version) to cover the tank. I've tried the lighting egg crate before and had a few smaller fish get through.

 

[joro]

Also, I got a bunch of BioSpira and a few small rubble rocks from the sump to help seed the HT. Do you think that should be enough? I have 120G of water on hand at any time for water changes if needed, so I can do that pretty quick if the Ammonia starts creeping up.

Further, I'm only concerned about matching Temp and Salinity to skip acclimation correct? I don't need to worry about pH do I?

 

[Humblefish]

Fair enough and I was planning on atleast one of the powerheads being closer to the top breaking the surface as well. Let me start with the 110 and see how it looks (I'll pick that up shortly). Certainly glad to have a bunch of local stores and Amazon same-day delivery for these types of situations Also picked up some PVC pipes and a screen material (non metal version) to cover the tank. I've tried the lighting egg crate before and had a few smaller fish get through.

You'll be amazed when you see the (sponge) size difference between the AC 70 & 110. The latter can hold a lot more nitrifying bacteria for ammonia breakdown. I don't recommend them on small QTs because of the flow, but it should be fine running in a 100gal trough.

Also, I got a bunch of BioSpira and a few small rubble rocks from the sump to help seed the HT. Do you think that should be enough? I have 120G of water on hand at any time for water changes if needed, so I can do that pretty quick if the Ammonia starts creeping up.

I wouldn't use anything from the DT, because it is infested with velvet. Giving the fish a "clean slate" in the QT will afford you 48 hrs time to get the copper up to therapeutic, because only the fish are contaminated (with trophonts) but not the tank itself. I would also seed your sponge (using BioSpira) in a bucket, and then transfer it to the HOB in QT. The presence of any copper would zap most of the bacteria before they had a chance to entrench, propagate & adapt inside that sponge.

Further, I'm only concerned about matching Temp and Salinity to skip acclimation correct? I don't need to worry about pH do I?

Yes, just match temp & SG.

 

[joro]

I wouldn't use anything from the DT, because it is infested with velvet. Giving the fish a "clean slate" in the QT will afford you 48 hrs time to get the copper up to therapeutic, because only the fish are contaminated (with trophonts) but not the tank itself. I would also seed your sponge (using BioSpira) in a bucket, and then transfer it to the HOB in QT. The presence of any copper would zap most of the bacteria before they had a chance to entrench, propagate & adapt inside that sponge.

Noted on the use of any "seeded" material from the DT - I'll go with the clean slate approach and just start it with the BioSpira. I'm making progress on everything but have a few additional questions:

1. I'm assuming I'm not going to be able to catch everyone tonight, especially the Leopard Wrasses, Midas Blenny, and Diamond Goby who may (will) prove difficult given their propensity to hide. I am going to try and get as many of them as I can over and only perform the dips on the Achilles and Harleqin Tusk (given the letters condition all day, I think there is a chance he doesn't make through these dips but chances are he's not making it until tomorrow either unless I do something). Thoughts on this approach?
2. On the biospira, I'll soak the white filter pad and the bio-media/balls that they included, I'm assuming at this point I shouldn't use the carbon block correct? Also, once I soak everything, should I pour the remaining biospira in the HT?
3. I picked up one of the AC 110s and man is this thing a beast compared to the 70 . I can't get it to balance; however, on the trough even with the little arm all the way out. Any tips on how to get it to balance so it doesn't fall off?
4. I also don't have any spare (nor did PetSmart have) a big enough heater for the full 100 gallon capacity. My plan is to use a 125W Eheim Jager I have and I've ordered a 200W one which will be here tomorrow. I've heated up the new saltwater I'm mixing and only planning on putting about 60 gallons or so in tonight (the rest tomorrow after it's mixed). The 125W should be ok for that volume unless you all have another suggestion?

Thanks again everyone, I'll keep you posted on how everything goes tonight. It's going to be busy...

 

[joro]

Also, for the dips, can I do two fish at the same time? As mentioned, the Achilles and Harley are really the two most visibly effected - it would be ideal if I could do both at the same time in the same buckets but not sure if that's ok? Also, what's the correct dosage for the Acriflavine bath if I'm using Ruby Reef Rally?

 

[Humblefish]

I'm assuming I'm not going to be able to catch everyone tonight, especially the Leopard Wrasses, Midas Blenny, and Diamond Goby who may (will) prove difficult given their propensity to hide. I am going to try and get as many of them as I can over and only perform the dips on the Achilles and Harleqin Tusk (given the letters condition all day, I think there is a chance he doesn't make through these dips but chances are he's not making it until tomorrow either unless I do something). Thoughts on this approach?

Sounds like the best you can do, given a bad situation. The stragglers will have to risk going directly into therapeutic copper, unless you want to setup a (temporary) separate QT for them.

On the biospira, I'll soak the white filter pad and the bio-media/balls that they included, I'm assuming at this point I shouldn't use the carbon block correct? Also, once I soak everything, should I pour the remaining biospira in the HT?

You can run carbon until medications are dosed. I wouldn't pour Biospira into anything which doesn't contain bio-media (e.g. sponge) for them to colonize. Bacteria just floating in the water doesn't do any good.

I picked up one of the AC 110s and man is this thing a beast compared to the 70 . I can't get it to balance; however, on the trough even with the little arm all the way out. Any tips on how to get it to balance so it doesn't fall off?

Can you use a small wood block to hold it in place? Sort of wedge it in-between the filter & trough. Instead of using the little arm thing.

I also don't have any spare (nor did PetSmart have) a big enough heater for the full 100 gallon capacity. My plan is to use a 125W Eheim Jager I have and I've ordered a 200W one which will be here tomorrow. I've heated up the new saltwater I'm mixing and only planning on putting about 60 gallons or so in tonight (the rest tomorrow after it's mixed). The 125W should be ok for that volume unless you all have another suggestion?

That's gonna be tight, since you are dealing with 100 gallons of water. I'd limit your AC usage until the second heater arrives. I'd also worry about burning that little heater out.

Also, for the dips, can I do two fish at the same time? As mentioned, the Achilles and Harley are really the two most visibly effected - it would be ideal if I could do both at the same time in the same buckets but not sure if that's ok? Also, what's the correct dosage for the Acriflavine bath if I'm using Ruby Reef Rally?

I would do one at a time, because there may not be enough O2 in the water for both fish. Rally dosage is 2/3 - 1 teaspoon per gallon for 90 minutes. (It's safe to overdose.)

 

[joro]

Quick Update: I dropped another 100W heater in to help bolster the 125W that was already in until tomorrow when I get the 200w. Temp is still about 1-2 degrees less than I would like it but the fish which we've moved seemed to be ok with the slight change. Thus far, I was able to catch our large Blonde Naso Tang and the Male Clownfish from the "minor symptoms" group. I was also able to catch both the Achilles and the Harley - they were both very lethargic and swimming above the sand but near the bottom staying in one place. The Achilles has gone through her freshwater and Rally dips with good results and is now in the HT. The Harley is about halfway through his Rally dip and will be in the HT in the next 30 minutes assuming everything goes to plan. Both did very good in both dips although the Harley was very unhappy with the freshwater dip

Before I caught them both I took photos with my macro lenses under the brighter (non-morning) light. As you can tell, the Achilles had it bad and the Harley did too (although it was hidden a bit more because of his coloration). Plan is to catch the remaining folks tomorrow then start raising the Copper level (I'll be using CopperSafe) over the next 48 hours unless you all suggest otherwise. Thank you all so much again for your help, hope to have this behind us soon enough and if we're lucky we may even have all our fish as well.

 

[melypr1985]

I'll be honest, I think you should go ahead and start dosing copper now. The Achilles isn't likely to survive very long even after the dips without the copper to help it.

 

[joro]

I'll be honest, I think you should go ahead and start dosing copper now. The Achilles isn't likely to survive very long even after the dips without the copper to help it.

Do I risk killing the other fish when I capture them though if they go straight into a fully concentrated copper HT?

 

[melypr1985]

Do I risk killing the other fish when I capture them though if they go straight into a fully concentrated copper HT?

Yes. it's a risk, but the flip side of that coin is that you are risking the Achilles and the tusk by not bringing the copper levels up sooner.

 

[joro]

Yes. it's a risk, but the flip side of that coin is that you are risking the Achilles and the tusk by not bringing the copper levels up sooner.

So there are about another 8-10 fish behind those 2 so it’s a hard equation to balance for sure. Let’s say I started raising copper levels tomorrow (so when the others are introduced at 1/2 concentration vs full) would that be better?

 

[Barrett]

Can you setup your other qt tank to put the other fish in and slowly bring the copper up on that and match temp and sg to Rubbermaid then transfer them to Rubbermaid when they reach therapeutic level?

 

[joro]

Can you setup your other qt tank to put the other fish in and slowly bring the copper up on that and match temp and sg to Rubbermaid then transfer them to Rubbermaid when they reach therapeutic level?

So that’s not a bad idea but I would need to get that setup (it’s all dry now but could be setup easily enough tomorrow). In terms of the remaining fish however, 29G may be a little cramped for what’s left including two more tangs, a trigger, Fox face, CBB, and 4-5 others so not sure if that is a perfect plan either.

 

[Barrett]

So that’s not a bad idea but I would need to get that setup (it’s all dry now but could be setup easily enough tomorrow). In terms of the remaining fish however, 29G may be a little cramped for what’s left including two more tangs, a trigger, Fox face, CBB, and 4-5 others so not sure if that is a perfect plan either.

It would only be for a very short time until they reach therapeutic levels of copper then straight into the Rubbermaid. Not sure if that would be easier on them then going straight into therapeutic levels of copper. That would be a good question for @melypr1985 or @Humblefish

 

[melypr1985]

So there are about another 8-10 fish behind those 2 so it’s a hard equation to balance for sure. Let’s say I started raising copper levels tomorrow (so when the others are introduced at 1/2 concentration vs full) would that be better?

I pm'd you.

 

[joro]

I pm'd you.

Thank you and just PMed back, Harley is about 20 minutes out from HT.