Oh! Ok great thanks!The one in the pic looks like a finger leather. Lots of these coral can sulk for a while, then shed a mucous layer, then be right as rain again.
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Oh! Ok great thanks!The one in the pic looks like a finger leather. Lots of these coral can sulk for a while, then shed a mucous layer, then be right as rain again.
Ok thank you!! Why do you think the ammonia level is rising on the hanna test?? & I'm sorry if you explained that already I might not have understood.the safety concern window for your particular tank transfer challenge/moved all waste over/was 24 hours.
if it was going to die from toxins, or ammonia in the sand like so much shale oil (that's what critics believe here) it would have been in the first day.
you simply cannot have an ammonia issue two days ago, or today, or next week. those tank pics will look the same, and nothing the critics have warned is panning out, we can all see it plainly.
taking no action is your wisest move, says the big giant work thread with 100% safe outcomes. maybe lower your lighting a little/late is better than never.
OK thanks! I can post a weekly tank pic no problem!yes don't remove it. we always lower the light levels in tank transfers, that's why we have no bleaching events, so with these lights being the same as before that's not an acclimation surprise. Don't judge anything from what toadstools do: they close up sometimes for days or weeks to shed tunic material, then are out strong. don't throw it out until it falls off the base; it easily might come back. move it down a little if it's high up: bleach burns during transfers are a real risk, that's why we stopped using full light in the transfer thread.
in no way can trace ammonia harm anything in your system, for reasons we've discussed completely. the rest of this thread will be critics painting fear and testing reaction into your reefing habits, preventing you from understanding updated cycling science for the likely entirety of your reefing career, they're bent on it apparently, but any tank pic you post will be that of a normal-running reef. if you had bad water, none of those anemones would be open.
I have nearly all writers here who never do work threads but are quick to critique running work threads on block; troll noise never helps me complete any job.
so each week till the matter dies, if you'll just put in one simple tank pic, the threads I'm linking this thread to can see how well the umpiring works between new/confident cycling science and old/constantly in fear cycling science. It's important readers be able to tie in warnings, or assurances here, to actually what we see the tank doing. only those pics provide an anchor the wildly varying status claims here.
if you put down that ammonia test kit, and never run it on your tank again, the anxiety level will slowly decrease once you see ten weeks go by and the tank simply runs normal day to day.
If I put a kenya tree coral into my reef right now it won't last long, it'll be dead by July. for some reason, my tank can't keep them. it wouldn't mean my cycle is broken due to what one coral does. looks at the tank as a whole; all those open corals, if you add fish they'll live, that's cycled.
Here's a review from @taricha regarding the Hanna ammonia checker.Ok thank you!! Why do you think the ammonia level is rising on the hanna test?? & I'm sorry if you explained that already I might not have understood.
It can. Make sure its bleached rather than a 'naked skeleton'Yes I will add some. Thanks! Can it come back from being bleached? There is some color in the center. Just looks horribly ugly all bleached like that
This is incorrect. IMHO. In this situation every possibility should be tested for - and I would not rely on a forum to tell me what is going on with my tank (absent testing)the safety concern window for your particular tank transfer challenge/moved all waste over/was 24 hours.
if it was going to die from toxins, or ammonia in the sand like so much shale oil (that's what critics believe here) it would have been in the first day.
you simply cannot have an ammonia issue two days ago, or today, or next week. those tank pics will look the same, and nothing the critics have warned is panning out, we can all see it plainly.
taking no action is your wisest move, says the big giant work thread with 100% safe outcomes. maybe lower your lighting a little/late is better than never.
simply focusing on tank pics is how to keep arguments at bay. I realize that after 3 more months and the exact same pics on file, they're still going to say your ammonia was bad/at risk, I know they will never relent (giving advice from the stands is really easy, running work threads isn't)
but in the end, those pics are either going to show a running reef or they aren't.
Thanks! It still has a ton of flesh its just mostly bleachedIt can. Make sure its bleached rather than a 'naked skeleton'
Ok, done that. Your review of it above is wrong. Seems like a weird choice for you to use as evidence.Read that whole thread
I'll just quote your whole statement here for editing surveyance, lol.EMERGENCY - Crazy Ammonia spike
Hey all, This tank has been up for 1+ year and its been doing great with SPS, LPS etc. Today I had 1 sps peel out and I thought maybe it was the new carbon I changed out, went to rent out a par meter to make sure had them test the water just for ***** and giggles as I test it myself x2 weekly...www.reef2reef.com
Read that whole thread it comes from my false ammonia stall example.
They reported 2.0 level ammonia, you reported .66 and this thread went into a tailspin
When people report an nh4 reading to me, it's not factored in my troubleshoot, I know they're dependent on testing to feel ok because that's all we've been taught. New cycling science has other ways to predict ammonia status.
Can you see any repeating themes between that thread and this one? Outcome differences? Did my advice change from this one?
This new example didn't even have a single tank change, nothing died. Nothing was stirred up
The test (or how they ran it, might not have prepped reagents correctly, kitchen lighting might be green leds, pick your adulterant) is what's wrong, not the cycle.
Isn't it true if betex simply wasn't running ammonia testing where known cycled rocks are in place, they'd have been much better off? All that arguing, like what we're seeing here, but the requested tank pics simply never changed.
I have maybe fifty more of those direct examples worked fully.
I've seen this case hundreds of times. The outcomes are always the same: nothings going to die.
The fact I've never had a single crash doesn't mean pH protected me for ten straight years of jobs, it meant predicting what ammonia does is simple if you use updated rules.
Certainly can, it's you. Do I win a prize?Can you see any repeating themes between that thread and this one?
Ok, done that. Your review of it above is wrong. Seems like a weird choice for you to use as evidence.Read that whole thread
I'll just quote your whole statement here for editing surveyance, lol.EMERGENCY - Crazy Ammonia spike
Hey all, This tank has been up for 1+ year and its been doing great with SPS, LPS etc. Today I had 1 sps peel out and I thought maybe it was the new carbon I changed out, went to rent out a par meter to make sure had them test the water just for ***** and giggles as I test it myself x2 weekly...www.reef2reef.com
Read that whole thread it comes from my false ammonia stall example.
They reported 2.0 level ammonia, you reported .66 and this thread went into a tailspin
When people report an nh4 reading to me, it's not factored in my troubleshoot, I know they're dependent on testing to feel ok because that's all we've been taught. New cycling science has other ways to predict ammonia status.
Can you see any repeating themes between that thread and this one? Outcome differences? Did my advice change from this one?
This new example didn't even have a single tank change, nothing died. Nothing was stirred up
The test (or how they ran it, might not have prepped reagents correctly, kitchen lighting might be green leds, pick your adulterant) is what's wrong, not the cycle.
Isn't it true if betex simply wasn't running ammonia testing where known cycled rocks are in place, they'd have been much better off? All that arguing, like what we're seeing here, but the requested tank pics simply never changed.
I have maybe fifty more of those direct examples worked fully.
I've seen this case hundreds of times. The outcomes are always the same: nothings going to die.
The fact I've never had a single crash doesn't mean pH protected me for ten straight years of jobs, it meant predicting what ammonia does is simple if you use updated rules.
Certainly can, it's you. Do I win a prize?Can you see any repeating themes between that thread and this one?
I didn't go thru all 4 pages but if the rock was kept wet, this tank will be complete by today or tomorrow. It doesn't take long for moving a tank with everything disturbed.Hello,
I bought a 120g used with sand and lots of rocks and tons of nems, and inverts a few days ago. I should have not reused the sand I'm realizing that now. Ammonia is 0.93 (hanna) nitrate 7.9 (hamna). I already had to do a massive water change about 60-70% because I couldnt transport all the water needed to fill the tank. I'm really trying to avoid more water changes for a little bit as that was quite a lot of work. Can I just dose prime and microbacter 7 and hopefully its just a mini cycle and resolves in a few days? I just dont want all the inverts to die. No fish in there right now. Thank you!
Thanks! Yes it was all kept wet. Ok great..fingers crossed!I didn't go thru all 4 pages but if the rock was kept wet, this tank will be complete by today or tomorrow. It doesn't take long for moving a tank with everything disturbed.
You're doing a great job at separating the wheat from the chaff in this thread. You are gonna be grand, perhaps start a build thread?Thanks! Yes it was all kept wet. Ok great..fingers crossed!
Nobody is selling anything, predicting a crash, talking about outbreaks or "broken cycles". Nobody is painting fear. There is no "new science" or "old science". This is all noise injected by you.keep selling the system as pre crash. it's not going to crash, it's going to get an outbreak as a worst case. corals open, animals added stay alive: that means something as the weeks go by.
if your tank never looks different in pics than it does right now other than some dinos or algae, we can't then claim your cycle was broken now. something stark in the way the system carries bioload would have to change in order for a broken cycle to now be repaired.
can I get an updated full tank pic pls/
Don't forget to test your fresh salt water for a baseline. As others have indicated things should start to improve.Thanks! Yes it was all kept wet. Ok great..fingers crossed!
Awh thanks! Lol I'm trying to stay out of the debate and just take all the perspectives . I will consider that! Not sure where to do that but I'm sure I can find it on here lolYou're doing a great job at separating the wheat from the chaff in this thread. You are gonna be grand, perhaps start a build thread?