My tang is covered in white spots. Ich braking out in my dt?

[vienna]

Apologies, always accidentally default to he, I should start being more cognizant and use "their" more. Meant no offense.

But 2 months is still VERY new in terms of tank age, and definitely cannot handle 3 big additions (ones that do not fit 60G to boot), not to mention the additional 6 (which again, do not fit the 60G)

What do you mean fit 60g?

 

[bluemon]

What do you mean fit 60g?

A lot of your fish are way too big/active swimmers for a 240L tank.

Not to mention you have multiple such fish meant for bigger tanks, and the tank is overstocked at 9 at 240L.

 

[KrisReef]

Yes thankyou.
I bought redsea 90 lights from a shut down tank & was offered his livestock. Being a new tank I thought I would handle it. I only had the foxface and 2 juvenile Nemo's. I was aware of the risk but his tank looked lovely & fish very healthy. His was established 5 years. He's otherwise very healthy. Swimming strong, eating well and breathing fine. Ill just have to go a day at a time but I will try treating 22 days of peroxide in case it helps to contain it

That tank was running with "Ich management" which is a highly controversial method of living with Ich and not treating with copper. Since you have decided to treat in tank, without copper, I will suggest that feeding all your fish live/fresh-uncooked chopped clams, oysters, mussels, real raw food from the ocean is a very helpful method for boosting the natural immune response to Ich and should be implemented to improve the chances of a positive outcome. The gist of the Ich lifecycle is to attach to the fish, fall off and then reattach and with more vigorous assaults as the parasites multiply during the process. By feeding foods that boost the immune response in the fish the Ich can be "defeated" by the fishes own immune response.

The other issue to consider is the number of tangs in the small aquarium. They are handling it now but aggression between fishes creates stress that hinders the natural immune response. It may be wise to remove one or two of the tangs to reduce aggression/competition between fishes to have a health fish population.

Just something to consider, easier to give them away while they're still alive, although lots of folks will not take a sick fish to their own tank.

Best of luck. Live food, the miracle drug of choice for most fishes surveyed independently among survivors.

 

[vienna]

A lot of your fish are way too big/active swimmers for a 240L tank.

Not to mention you have multiple such fish meant for bigger tanks, and the tank is overstocked at 9 at 240L.

I may reduce the amount once I've treated them.

 

[vienna]

That tank was running with "Ich management" which is a highly controversial method of living with Ich and not treating with copper. Since you have decided to treat in tank, without copper, I will suggest that feeding all your fish live/fresh-uncooked chopped clams, oysters, mussels, real raw food from the ocean is a very helpful method for boosting the natural immune response to Ich and should be implemented to improve the chances of a positive outcome. The gist of the Ich lifecycle is to attach to the fish, fall off and then reattach and with more vigorous assaults as the parasites multiply during the process. By feeding foods that boost the immune response in the fish the Ich can be "defeated" by the fishes own immune response.

The other issue to consider is the number of tangs in the small aquarium. They are handling it now but aggression between fishes creates stress that hinders the

natural immune response. It may be wise to remove one or two of the tangs to reduce aggression/competition between fishes to have a health fish population.

Just something to consider, easier to give them away while they're still alive, although lots of folks will not take a sick fish to their own tank.

Best of luck. Live food, the miracle drug of choice for most fishes surveyed independently among survivors.

I will do that definitely. Thanks,,

 

[Tcook]

I may reduce the amount once I've treated them.

Or keep the 240L as QT and find a larger 5-6 foot long tank for the DT and keep the fish

 

[Doctorgori]

I did the “ich management” thing but only because I moved and have no fish room, QT tanks et…
I don’t have the credentials to even offer a proper protocol…
But TBH since I don’t trust peroxide by itself to properly target ich tomonts I increased the dosage and used it in tandem with medic powder … I was able to save the fish but the snails did not fare so well…Also worth mentioning is I have a UV unit….

As another option I might suggest the OP save the money on the suggested battery of smaller QT tanks and perhaps get one larger tank (just for volume) and use that bare to treat with copper, then upgrade everything into that as the budget allows…

edit: yeah thats a lot of fish in a small space…

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Sorry - I missed the start of this thread, I was out camping.

Circling back to the very first picture....while the spots on the fins do point towards marine ich, the picture is pretty blue and not well in focus. You want to 100% rule out mucus plugs as the cause of the white spots here, as both purple and blue tangs are prone to those. Of course, ich can cause mucus plugs, so it is common to see both at the same time.

Can you post a clearer, current picture, taken under white lights?
Are you seeing any white spots on any other fish?

In cases where people cannot move the fish out and treat with copper, there is also the technique of moving the invertebrates out and running hyposalinity in the DT.

If you go with "ich management", you need to hit it from multiple fronts. Here is a write up I did on that:

“Ich Management” Because many aquarists mix fish and invertebrates, they are ill-prepared to then treat for marine ich, as the two best treatments, amine-based copper or hyposalinity, cannot be used with invertebrates. A popular technique has then arisen, “ich management”. It is popular not because it works well, but because it is an easier alternative. Be forewarned, it often fails if applied during moderate infections. The reason that it exists as a technique at all is because people find themselves in situations like this and are desperate to try anything.

The basic idea is to reduce the infective propagules (tomites) of the ich parasite to the point where the fish's acquired immunity can fight the infection off. This is done through a series of techniques for stress reduction and tomite limiting. Unfortunately, the ich tomites themselves cause stress to the fish, so if the fish have more than 30 or so trophonts on them, the method often fails.

1) Install a powerful UV sterilizer on the aquarium.
2) Ensure that the fish's diet and water quality are the best you can make them.
3) Keep the water temperature close to 78 degrees F.
4) Siphon off the tank floor nightly to remove as many tomonts as possible.
5) Employ strong filtration to trap as many tomites as possible.
6) Try a proprietary "reef safe" marine ich medication. These rarely cure ich infections on their own, but some may have benefit when combined with other management methods. Avoid the herbal remedies, focus on those that contain peroxide salts. There is, however, some evidence that using peroxides with UV does not work, as the UV can break down the peroxides.


Jay

 

[vienna]

Sorry - I missed the start of this thread, I was out camping.

Circling back to the very first picture....while the spots on the fins do point towards marine ich, the picture is pretty blue and not well in focus. You want to 100% rule out mucus plugs as the cause of the white spots here, as both purple and blue tangs are prone to those. Of course, ich can cause mucus plugs, so it is common to see both at the same time.

Can you post a clearer, current picture, taken under white lights?
Are you seeing any white spots on any other fish?

In cases where people cannot move the fish out and treat with copper, there is also the technique of moving the invertebrates out and running hyposalinity in the DT.

If you go with "ich management", you need to hit it from multiple fronts. Here is a write up I did on that:

“Ich Management” Because many aquarists mix fish and invertebrates, they are ill-prepared to then treat for marine ich, as the two best treatments, amine-based copper or hyposalinity, cannot be used with invertebrates. A popular technique has then arisen, “ich management”. It is popular not because it works well, but because it is an easier alternative. Be forewarned, it often fails if applied during moderate infections. The reason that it exists as a technique at all is because people find themselves in situations like this and are desperate to try anything.

The basic idea is to reduce the infective propagules (tomites) of the ich parasite to the point where the fish's acquired immunity can fight the infection off. This is done through a series of techniques for stress reduction and tomite limiting. Unfortunately, the ich tomites themselves cause stress to the fish, so if the fish have more than 30 or so trophonts on them, the method often fails.

1) Install a powerful UV sterilizer on the aquarium.
2) Ensure that the fish's diet and water quality are the best you can make them.
3) Keep the water temperature close to 78 degrees F.
4) Siphon off the tank floor nightly to remove as many tomonts as possible.
5) Employ strong filtration to trap as many tomites as possible.
6) Try a proprietary "reef safe" marine ich medication. These rarely cure ich infections on their own, but some may have benefit when combined with other management methods. Avoid the herbal remedies, focus on those that contain peroxide salts. There is, however, some evidence that using peroxides with UV does not work, as the UV can break down the peroxides.


Jay

Thankyou for all replies. Purple tang hasn't had a recurring brake out day 2, I also have a UV and doing Reef revitaliser water conditioner. An Australian brand peroxide salt. So far so good.

 

[vienna]

Sorry - I missed the start of this thread, I was out camping.

Circling back to the very first picture....while the spots on the fins do point towards marine ich, the picture is pretty blue and not well in focus. You want to 100% rule out mucus plugs as the cause of the white spots here, as both purple and blue tangs are prone to those. Of course, ich can cause mucus plugs, so it is common to see both at the same time.

Can you post a clearer, current picture, taken under white lights?
Are you seeing any white spots on any other fish?

In cases where people cannot move the fish out and treat with copper, there is also the technique of moving the invertebrates out and running hyposalinity in the DT.

If you go with "ich management", you need to hit it from multiple fronts. Here is a write up I did on that:

“Ich Management” Because many aquarists mix fish and invertebrates, they are ill-prepared to then treat for marine ich, as the two best treatments, amine-based copper or hyposalinity, cannot be used with invertebrates. A popular technique has then arisen, “ich management”. It is popular not because it works well, but because it is an easier alternative. Be forewarned, it often fails if applied during moderate infections. The reason that it exists as a technique at all is because people find themselves in situations like this and are desperate to try anything.

The basic idea is to reduce the infective propagules (tomites) of the ich parasite to the point where the fish's acquired immunity can fight the infection off. This is done through a series of techniques for stress reduction and tomite limiting. Unfortunately, the ich tomites themselves cause stress to the fish, so if the fish have more than 30 or so trophonts on them, the method often fails.

1) Install a powerful UV sterilizer on the aquarium.
2) Ensure that the fish's diet and water quality are the best you can make them.
3) Keep the water temperature close to 78 degrees F.
4) Siphon off the tank floor nightly to remove as many tomonts as possible.
5) Employ strong filtration to trap as many tomites as possible.
6) Try a proprietary "reef safe" marine ich medication. These rarely cure ich infections on their own, but some may have benefit when combined with other management methods. Avoid the herbal remedies, focus on those that contain peroxide salts. There is, however, some evidence that using peroxides with UV does not work, as the UV can break down the peroxides.


Jay

No there are no spots on any other fish mainly the purple tang. It looked like flecks 1 day the next spots, he's since clean after a few days. Hopefully it's not ich but treating with Reef revitaliser water conditioner. Peroxide salt. I've adjusted water temp as you suggested and feeding better foods. Thanks for your help

 

[vienna]

Thanks to everyone for your replies and help. 11 days into Peroxide salt treatment and no signs of spots having appeared. They dissapeared a few days later & haven't come back. The corals are healthy and unaffected. It may have just been mucus plugs. Thankyou again for everyone's support.

 

[Apayson]

Thanks to everyone for your replies and help. 11 days into Peroxide salt treatment and no signs of spots having appeared. They dissapeared a few days later & haven't come back. The corals are healthy and unaffected. It may have just been mucus plugs. Thankyou again for everyone's support.

That's good to hear!
Make sure you QT any new additions moving forward