Pump size for mixing station?

Contractor_Chris

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Hello, I'm hoping someone can help me here. Despite having 2 brute cans, I've opted to buy two 65 gallon containers for a cleaner, more professional looking mixing station. I have a 180 gallon tank with a 44 gallon sump.

Cost is a factor at this point so I'm leaning towards a jebao dc pump. I don't want a noisy ac pump though I know panworld are good not what I'm after. (I've had great luck with them on my monster fresh water tanks). My tank is about 30 feet away from where the mixing station will be, and I'll use the pump to do the mixing instead of a power head. What GPH should I be looking for? Between a dcp or the dcw (but the dcw had mediocre reviews) there's also a mdp but that's much more expensive for some reason. Hate to sound cheap. But the rest of this build had cost me a small fortune the last few weeks.

Thanks in advance Chris.
 

TX_REEF

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I know you’re saying you don’t want AC but I use this for my mixing. It’s super quiet, I like the magnet mount, and it has a nice wide flow path. Plenty of power at a budget price point.

 

Peace River

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My water mixing station includes (2) 65g Norwesco tanks, a Reef Octo 6, an auto flush RODI with a 5' tall carbon tower, a Hanna Marine Monitor for salinity and pH, and (2) Hydros controllers for various sensors, solenoids, and more. I really like having the variability of the DC pump to mix or transfer water at different speeds. Good luck with whatever you choose!

1702436413354.png
 
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Contractor_Chris

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I know you’re saying you don’t want AC but I use this for my mixing. It’s super quiet, I like the magnet mount, and it has a nice wide flow path. Plenty of power at a budget price point.

That's like a power head. I meant an inline circulation pump. To pump the rodi tank into the salt tank, to circulate the salt tank to mix it, and then pump from there over 30ish feet into my display tank. Like a dcp-10000, 13000,15000 etc. Or if that's all way too big.
 

TX_REEF

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That's like a power head. I meant an inline circulation pump. To pump the rodi tank into the salt tank, to circulate the salt tank to mix it, and then pump from there over 30ish feet into my display tank. Like a dcp-10000, 13000,15000 etc. Or if that's all way too big.
Got it, apologies for the misunderstanding!
 
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Contractor_Chris

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My water mixing station includes (2) 65g Norwesco tanks, a Reef Octo 6, an auto flush RODI with a 5' tall carbon tower, a Hanna Marine Monitor for salinity and pH, and (2) Hydros controllers for various sensors, solenoids, and more. I really like having the variability of the DC pump to mix or transfer water at different speeds. Good luck with whatever you choose!

1702436413354.png
Thanks! That's pretty much the set up im building just havent went down the rabbit hole yet for monitoring with the extras like you have. (Still setting my tank up) I'll look up the specs on your octo 6 pump. I'm sure they are much more expensive then the jebao as my octo regal skimmer wasn't cheap lol are you running 1" pipe? Also the return pipe going in the top, does it just dump put? Or you have pipe ran inside the tank also?
 

Peace River

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Yes, it's 1" PVC. Inside the tank the salt tank the pipe turns down with a 90 adapter and then has a small pipe stub where I can hang a filter sock if I choose. However, most of the time I run a sediment canister instead to limit crud build up. Other pumps are comparable if everything goes right, but IME the Octo pumps are far more durable for times when the pump is running with no water or is running with all of the valves closed. Obviously we all try to avoid these situations for many of us (at least for me) it does happen occasionally with no negative effects to the pump. On a side note, I added the matching quick disconnect fitting to a Sicce Ultra Zero pump and am able to use the same 25' hose with either the mixing station or the Ultra Zero.
 
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Contractor_Chris

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Yes, it's 1" PVC. Inside the tank the salt tank the pipe turns down with a 90 adapter and then has a small pipe stub where I can hang a filter sock if I choose. However, most of the time I run a sediment canister instead to limit crud build up. Other pumps are comparable if everything goes right, but IME the Octo pumps are far more durable for times when the pump is running with no water or is running with all of the valves closed. Obviously we all try to avoid these situations for many of us (at least for me) it does happen occasionally with no negative effects to the pump. On a side note, I added the matching quick disconnect fitting to a Sicce Ultra Zero pump and am able to use the same 25' hose with either the mixing station or the Ultra Zero.
You can hang a filter sock inside the tank? I didn't even think thay far into it yet and new to salt water tanks (again don't even have it set up yet) could you explain that more or where you run the sediment filter? I saw someone else ran an online sediment filter on the output line to filter anything before it went to the display tank. But figured that may be over kill? I have heard there will be crud build up but I bought nyos salt as I heard it mixes very clean.
 

Peace River

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For the filter sock, I cut a diagonal notch in the PVC down tube into the salt side of the mixing station (not fancy, but it works). I use a short sock with a cross piece in the mouth that will slide into the notch. The sediment filter is a BRS single stage reactor with a sediment filter that has a pump in the salt side of the mixing station and a return hose that puts the water back into the same tank. It does raise the water temp so I have it setup so the controller will shut it off if it exceeds a preset temp.
 

19Mateo83

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I have this hygger as my return on my 50g. It is dead silent and you can tune the flow as needed. So far I have no complaints with this pump and it’s got pretty good reviews on Amazon as well. Plus right now it’s 5% off.
 

Indymann99

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My water mixing station includes (2) 65g Norwesco tanks, a Reef Octo 6, an auto flush RODI with a 5' tall carbon tower, a Hanna Marine Monitor for salinity and pH, and (2) Hydros controllers for various sensors, solenoids, and more. I really like having the variability of the DC pump to mix or transfer water at different speeds. Good luck with whatever you choose!

1702436413354.png
THIS ^^^^^
 

BeanAnimal

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I have a 40 gallon or so HDPE tank and two min-jet 707s in it... Wow you guys are throwing a ton of power at these things.

I powerhead used to be hooked to a 1/2 PVC manifold that laid on the bottom and created a small gyre. The second pump was plumb to the sump for water changes.

I now use the manifold and the second pump with 1/2" silicone tube through a filter sock. I don't do water changes anymore. The pumps runs 24/7 and I keep that water at ~37 psu or so and it is not heated. I use a GHL doser to replenish what the KH-Director and (no removed) ReefBot use for testing. ATO takes care of ATO.

The idea behind the higher salinity is twofold. 1) it will last longer (6-8 months) before I need to mix more and 2) If I do decide to do a water change by pulling water out as I put it in with two dosing heads ( so as not to trigger ATO) the colder saltier water will sink while i pull the warmer less salty water from the surface...

Anway. Nice mixing stations... just too much pump for me :)
 

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