Quarantining: The pros & cons

EmdeReef

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So let's say you're not using any medications, and using the TTM. Would a UV light be a good idea there? Provide any benefits worth the cost of the UV light? Then stop using the UV and treat with antibiotics or Prazipro (which says not to use with UV)?

It won't hurt anything if you're not treating with antibiotics and once you switch it off there's no problem starting ABX. I'm just not convinced that UV lights available to hobbyists help all that much with the pathogens we deal with. There's not that much research into the proper radiation dose needed to kill saltwater ich or velvet for example. The research that does exist indicates doses in the ranges way above anything UV sterilizers are rated for. That doesn't mean that it won't zap some theronts/dinospores.
 

Ferrell

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Very good article @Humblefish always enjoy your writings.
As a survivor in the hobby of one who never QT’d my fish and then killed everything with a velvet infected fish, I for one am on the quarantine and observe boat, and treat as needed. (My qt is a fully cycled sand and rock tank, always on). I’ve still lost a few fish in QT, but never in my DT. Lost because of weakness or stress from shipping
Also a smaller environment allows acclimation to foods and fattening up which in turn lets them make the step into the big boy tank a lot easier.
Thanks agin for the great read
 

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Is hyposalinity a viable way to QT without using copper treatments any more? I've had a chromis in hypo for about a week now and so far so good. there aren't alot of good threads regarding hypo treatments so I'm kinda winging it. I have an ATO in my QT to keep salinity stable, but I'm in the percentage of reefers who are a bit intimidated by using copper treatments and testing rigorously for weeks making sure levels are consistent. I'm just curious if This is still a good way to QT new fish also. This is a great thread to read through and thanks for taking the time to compile all the links. I'm trying QT with hypo for the first time to see if I can develop a working technique for success..
 

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Is hyposalinity a viable way to QT without using copper treatments any more? I've had a chromis in hypo for about a week now and so far so good. there aren't alot of good threads regarding hypo treatments so I'm kinda winging it. I have an ATO in my QT to keep salinity stable, but I'm in the percentage of reefers who are a bit intimidated by using copper treatments and testing rigorously for weeks making sure levels are consistent. I'm just curious if This is still a good way to QT new fish also. This is a great thread to read through and thanks for taking the time to compile all the links. I'm trying QT with hypo for the first time to see if I can develop a working technique for success..

The entire/regular team here is awesome for info. Much of it though will come down to your own risk tolerance, what you are comfortable doing, etc. While it was due to moving a fish much sooner than even my own rules, a recent velvet issue now has me using CP without fail. I still do a sort of TTM now, but since it's redundant if using CP after I don't stress on it. With an auto water change where I can fill up multiple small tanks fast and easy it just works for me. I transfer about every 48 hours because if using anti-biotics at all it fits the time frame. I simply don't trust myself not to cross-contaminate during TTM at some point so they still get CP :) Long term with no meds also works for many if they have the patience, can recognize an issue early, and not a fish that can simply hide an issue. I've slowly fallen towards prophylactic treatment. Metro, two rounds of Prazi, other anti-biotics if needed, and a final 10-14 days in CP. All well away from my DT so I don't go and dip my arm from one and then right in the other :)

You can continue to make changes to your own protocol with help from Humblefish and the others here to find what works for you AND gives the highest odds of success.

Now, coral QT I'm having some stress over, lol. Also, how's it going up in Oshkosh? From the Fox Valley myself :)
 

MnFish1

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Is hyposalinity a viable way to QT without using copper treatments any more? I've had a chromis in hypo for about a week now and so far so good. there aren't alot of good threads regarding hypo treatments so I'm kinda winging it. I have an ATO in my QT to keep salinity stable, but I'm in the percentage of reefers who are a bit intimidated by using copper treatments and testing rigorously for weeks making sure levels are consistent. I'm just curious if This is still a good way to QT new fish also. This is a great thread to read through and thanks for taking the time to compile all the links. I'm trying QT with hypo for the first time to see if I can develop a working technique for success..

Check out this article from the University of Florida concerning hypo salinity and other treatments for CI. Im not sure I would use Hyposalinity.

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/FA/FA16400.pdf
 
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Humblefish

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I’m not a fan of hypo either because it doesn’t treat velvet, and that is the #1 killer of fish right now. I’ve read opinions that hypo + copper can be combined, but that seems to just be putting more “stress” on the fish. ;)
 

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Yeah, the only problem is that velvet is so common nowadays, and wrasses in particular can carry it without showing outward symptoms. This is why so many recommend going ahead with copper or CP for all fish. CP is a no go for wrasses at the moment, but chelated copper like Copper Power is usually tolerated well so long as the levels are raised slowly to therapeutic over 7 days or so. I'd recommend that, but it's all up to your personal tolerance of risk.

@Humblefish please confirm. I thought I read CP was ok for wrasses in a dose of 40mg/g. I just picked up a Carpenter's Fairy today and he is in QT settling in. Ate right away too :) But I want to be sure I do this correctly. I have general cure and CP here waiting. I have never used any of the coppers yet.
 
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Humblefish

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@Humblefish please confirm. I thought I read CP was ok for wrasses in a dose of 40mg/g. I just picked up a Carpenter's Fairy today and he is in QT settling in. Ate right away too :) But I want to be sure I do this correctly. I have general cure and CP here waiting. I have never used any of the coppers yet.

Carpenter's is a Flasher Wrasse (Paracheilinus genus). So, copper (e.g. Copper Power) should be used instead.

I’ve only had good experiences using Chloroquine on Fairy (Cirrhilabrus) Halichoeres genus wrasses thus far.
 

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Carpenter's is a Flasher Wrasse (Paracheilinus genus). So, copper (e.g. Copper Power) should be used instead.

I’ve only had good experiences using Chloroquine on Fairy (Cirrhilabrus) Halichoeres genus wrasses thus far.
OK...thanks....I guess I need to get some Copper and a checker. Glad I read this tonite, I was already rereading the main QT thread you wrote years ago. BTW are you still in Navarre? Im in FWB and would love to get the low down on the lfs in the area.
 

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Hi! @Humblefish.....I have learned so much reading your info on the different disease and QT section.....I am not sure if I missed it....but I have seen a lot of talk about bacterial infections.....do you have info on what to look out for? Also I have seen recently a lot of people having velvet or something wiping out several fish in the tank....and when asked if they added a fish recently they say the only fish in several months was a Wrasse, or dragnet....I kept hearing the term Typhoid Mary referring to the Wrasse or dragnet as being the carrier of the disease......even if the person QT and treated the Wrasse etc.....I was wondering what your thoughts were? Also....keep up the great work with all of this useful info! I love it! [emoji16]
 
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Humblefish

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OK...thanks....I guess I need to get some Copper and a checker. Glad I read this tonite, I was already rereading the main QT thread you wrote years ago. BTW are you still in Navarre? Im in FWB and would love to get the low down on the lfs in the area.

There are 3 decent LFS that carry SW in FWB, but I’m partial to Bluewater Zoo because I really like the owners. However, you can get some great frag deals at Petland sometimes. Haven’t been to Elite Aquatics in awhile, but they had the largest selection.
 
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Humblefish

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Hi! @Humblefish.....I have learned so much reading your info on the different disease and QT section.....I am not sure if I missed it....but I have seen a lot of talk about bacterial infections.....do you have info on what to look out for? Also I have seen recently a lot of people having velvet or something wiping out several fish in the tank....and when asked if they added a fish recently they say the only fish in several months was a Wrasse, or dragnet....I kept hearing the term Typhoid Mary referring to the Wrasse or dragnet as being the carrier of the disease......even if the person QT and treated the Wrasse etc.....I was wondering what your thoughts were? Also....keep up the great work with all of this useful info! I love it! [emoji16]


Read this: https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/tank-terror-bacterial-infections-in-the-reef-tank.22/
 

4FordFamily

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Question for @Humblefish or the community. Is there any benefit to using a UV on a QT tank to kill off parasites? I know a UV sterilizer for my upcoming display tank will be expensive, but a smaller one on a QT tank would be affordable.
Just don’t mix UV and meds—- that’s where problems arise. UV alone won’t likely clear anything so I’d say probably not.
 

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I'm kind of new to quarantining (I've done it once in the last 8 years), I had Chromis in a the QT for longer than month while setting up my newer and bigger tank. I didn't treat with anything, just watched them, they were fine for a long time, once in the DT they starting picking each other off, one by one until I had 1 left. No illness as far as I could see.

I had another long time fish that was in DT that I pulled out to quarantine, no idea what was wrong with him, no visible signs of anything, I dosed with copper only once, the fish died within the week. All other fish were fine.

I don't really know a lot about what to look for, other than the obvious, white spots, stringy poop, flashing. What is this about swimming into the powerhead flow?

I prefer to watch instead of treat.
Also, is there a better option that copper? It ruins the QT for all future snails etc. that I would like to quarantine. I just broke down my other tank because of the one dose of copper..which I stupidly forgot about when I bought 5 scarlet hermit crabs and dropped them in there 2 or 3 months later...they all died and after a few days I remembered why :( and felt awful!

I see people saying velvet is a big problem these days, now I'm afraid to buy more fish once my QT is ready to go, I plan on getting a larger cuc for my big tank and at least one or 2 will go into the biocube. I'm also getting 2 tangs when the QT is cycled. I planned on observing them for at least month, is this enough? What should I watch for? what should I have on hand just in case? I can easily feed healthy immune boosting diet, any suggestions on an easy way to do that too? I feed NLS, I know it has garlic but I also know most prefer frozen food over dry.

For years I would just acclimate and drop a new fish into the tank without issues, now I'm over thinking the entire process! I've had the same 2 clown fish for 8 years, never had any issues with them, they were my starter fish.
 

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I'm kind of new to quarantining (I've done it once in the last 8 years), I had Chromis in a the QT for longer than month while setting up my newer and bigger tank. I didn't treat with anything, just watched them, they were fine for a long time, once in the DT they starting picking each other off, one by one until I had 1 left. No illness as far as I could see.

I had another long time fish that was in DT that I pulled out to quarantine, no idea what was wrong with him, no visible signs of anything, I dosed with copper only once, the fish died within the week. All other fish were fine.

I don't really know a lot about what to look for, other than the obvious, white spots, stringy poop, flashing. What is this about swimming into the powerhead flow?

I prefer to watch instead of treat.
Also, is there a better option that copper? It ruins the QT for all future snails etc. that I would like to quarantine. I just broke down my other tank because of the one dose of copper..which I stupidly forgot about when I bought 5 scarlet hermit crabs and dropped them in there 2 or 3 months later...they all died and after a few days I remembered why :( and felt awful!

I see people saying velvet is a big problem these days, now I'm afraid to buy more fish once my QT is ready to go, I plan on getting a larger cuc for my big tank and at least one or 2 will go into the biocube. I'm also getting 2 tangs when the QT is cycled. I planned on observing them for at least month, is this enough? What should I watch for? what should I have on hand just in case? I can easily feed healthy immune boosting diet, any suggestions on an easy way to do that too? I feed NLS, I know it has garlic but I also know most prefer frozen food over dry.

For years I would just acclimate and drop a new fish into the tank without issues, now I'm over thinking the entire process! I've had the same 2 clown fish for 8 years, never had any issues with them, they were my starter fish.
I agree with you! I haven't bought any new fish in a long time. I am almost afraid too with all this talk of more diseases being seen in fish.....I am curious as to why after all these years there is a huge increase in velvet, ich, bacterial infections etc.! Hopefully @Humblefish or one of the other fish QT/fish disease experts can chime in!
 

ReefWithCare

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I was looking back at some BRS videos and noticed that for the 160 they didn’t QT any fish. I was actually pretty surprised. I looked it up after someone told me they don’t QT because BRS chose not to when they did the 160. I’m actually surprised they never really addressed it. What are your thoughts about it?
 

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