Salt Water Mixing Stations Let's See Them!!

[Ross Petersen]

Rookie question here... I'm thinking about placement of my RO/DI filter in an educational setting.

The best option is possibly in my classroom on the wall (isolated from students) There's a bathroom adjacent to my room (8-10 feet away) but there's little space for an RO/DI filter in the bathroom - and trust is a consideration.

Would feeding tap water via a 1/4'' standard line from the bathroom to my class where an RO/DI sits be an issue? Booster pump likely required? My tap water is reported to have a PSI of 60.

Pros and cons of having the RO/DI unit away from the bathroom sink? Thanks!

 

[BZOFIQ]

Rookie question here... I'm thinking about placement of my RO/DI filter in an educational setting.

The best option is possibly in my classroom on the wall (isolated from students) There's a bathroom adjacent to my room (8-10 feet away) but there's little space for an RO/DI filter in the bathroom - and trust is a consideration.

Would feeding tap water via a 1/4'' standard line from the bathroom to my class where an RO/DI sits be an issue? Booster pump likely required? My tap water is reported to have a PSI of 60.

Pros and cons of having the RO/DI unit away from the bathroom sink? Thanks!

There should be no problem feeding tap water via 1/4" tubing, You'll also need second line for discharge back to that bathroom unless you have other drain nearby.

 

[mikee002]

Ok, dumb question... it looks like many setups are pumping or gravity feeding fresh water to the saltwater storage. How do you determine how much fresh is being transferred over, so that you can add the correct amount of salt?

 

[lapin]

Ok, dumb question... it looks like many setups are pumping or gravity feeding fresh water to the saltwater storage. How do you determine how much fresh is being transferred over, so that you can add the correct amount of salt?

I have 65 gallon cylinder. It is marked every 5 gallons. It is never empty. I add the rodi water and subtract what was in the tank. Pour salt in to what I think will make it come up to 1.020. After mixing for a while I will add more salt until I reach 1.026

 

[AquaLifeStudio]

I've got 5 gallon incremental markers on my 200 gallon tanks. I know that each bag of reef crystals are about 14 lbs each which treats roughly 42 gallons to 1.026 specific gravity. I dont test the salinity in the saltwater storage container all that often because of the accuracy of my initial calculations but it's nice to verify that my math is correct.

 

[don_chuwish]

Ok, dumb question... it looks like many setups are pumping or gravity feeding fresh water to the saltwater storage. How do you determine how much fresh is being transferred over, so that you can add the correct amount of salt?

I know the Brute holds 30-32 gallons and I rarely mix any different amount. But if I do I can just look at how much dropped out of the RO container since it's marked.

 

[mikee002]

All very common sense answers! Thanks!

 

[Flippers4pups]

 

[Arom81]

Hey everyone
Hoping to get some thoughts on this design for my mixing station.
Should I use one external pump vs two PMUP's? and should I have a solenoid from the NSW to the ATO?
I'm setting up my first tank and want to get it right from the start.
Much appreciated...cheers

 

[AquaLifeStudio]

Hey everyone
Hoping to get some thoughts on this design for my mixing station.
Should I use one external pump vs two PMUP's? and should I have a solenoid from the NSW to the ATO?
I'm setting up my first tank and want to get it right from the start.
Much appreciated...cheers

Your plans look good but I'd suggest a solenoid valve or two as extra protection if you are pumping from a reservoir for top off that contains more water than your sump could handle, just in case if your dosing/pump sticks open.

Also, I would suggest that you have an additional line (a T or Y fitting and a couple of valves) from your ro/di output to flush your higher TDS water until your filters reach as close to 0 tds as possible. Store low TDS and get rid of the rest, its better for your tank.

I'll post some pictures and a video of my updated setup to better explain what I mean.

-Dan

 

[Arom81]

Your plans look good but I'd suggest a solenoid valve or two as extra protection if you are pumping from a reservoir for top off that contains more water than your sump could handle, just in case if your dosing/pump sticks open.

Also, I would suggest that you have an additional line (a T or Y fitting and a couple of valves) from your ro/di output to flush your higher TDS water until your filters reach as close to 0 tds as possible. Store low TDS and get rid of the rest, its better for your tank.

I'll post some pictures and a video of my updated setup to better explain what I mean.

-Dan

That would be awesome.
Will use solenoids and sequence them to flush to drain for a few minutes then divert back to ro tank. Does sediment build up in saltwater storage tank? I was thinking of using another solenoid at the bottom of nsw tank. Sequence to open on a low low level and pump RO into NSW tank for a few seconds to flush any sediment. Then basically close solenoid and continue filling with RO to pre determined high level that I can just dump X amount of salt into.
I'm going to follow the brs/wwc 4 month cycle so i have a fair bit of time to get this set up right. Waiting on clarisea roller mat, nyos skimmer, and have a bunch of Neptune equipment on the way, but due to what's going on around the world it's getting harder for suppliers to get any new stock out of the US. Sounds bad over there, hope you guys see the light at the end of the tunnel soon. ✌

 

[siggy]

you might want to rethink optical sensors in the salt vat, they will fail from precipitation at some point. If its just alarms and not control then fine but still a pain to clean. Check out ultrasonic sensors

 

[mattybecks]

40gal tank with Macordactyla Doreensis, Goniopora coral, and 18 mushrooms. With a pair of allardi clowns, yellow tail damsel, a yellow watchman goby and pistol shrimp.

I usually put my salt in a bucket, then use a bidget in the bathroom to fill the bucket so it mixes it well (20 litres, just normal tap water). Add a pump and wait 15 - 30 min till its mixed and pour it in the tank. (sometimes I may prepare the day before and just leave the pump running over night)

use ATM hot salt which mixes pretty quickly.

 

[AquaLifeStudio]

 

[AquaLifeStudio]

I'm using two separate 1/4" acrylic tubes that extend down just short of 6', basically just off the bottom of the 200 gallon container. One line is pulled upstairs through a Doser 2.1 for the Coral QT tank, the other slowly siphons to the main display.

After passing through these bulkheads in the garage, the various lines run through a PVC conduit in the crawlspace under the house. The run continues up into the wall behind my electronics cabinet and into the manifold below.

I've got a 110v push-in connector solenoid valve on the ATO line (not visible here) which is plugged into a GHL PowerBar and controlled by Profilux. When the solenoid is provided with power it currently drips at a rate of about 25ml a minute as it siphons from the 200 gallon RO/DI Reservoir.

The manifold (above) greatly improves the organization of the following 10 dosing lines: Auto Water Change (Out), Kh director test, Ion director test, Alk, Cal, Mag, Trace Elements, Amino Acids, Auto Water Change (In), ATO.

7 of those 10 lines exit into the pump return section of the sump.

 

[BZOFIQ]

I love how you've bundled all the "low voltage" cables together.

 

[ActualProof]

Here’s one I just finished building. I ripped off someone’s design from way back in this thread... the footprint suited my purposes perfectly. Nice and quiet!

 

[Sthomp01]

I use a simple Brute can system set up vertically. Gravity flow from fresh water to saltwater can. I circulate using the same pump that I pull water from on the saltwater side.

 

[User1]

I'm using two separate 1/4" acrylic tubes that extend down just short of 6', basically just off the bottom of the 200 gallon container. One line is pulled upstairs through a Doser 2.1 for the Coral QT tank, the other slowly siphons to the main display.

After passing through these bulkheads in the garage, the various lines run through a PVC conduit in the crawlspace under the house. The run continues up into the wall behind my electronics cabinet and into the manifold below.

I've got a 110v push-in connector solenoid valve on the ATO line (not visible here) which is plugged into a GHL PowerBar and controlled by Profilux. When the solenoid is provided with power it currently drips at a rate of about 25ml a minute as it siphons from the 200 gallon RO/DI Reservoir.

The manifold (above) greatly improves the organization of the following 10 dosing lines: Auto Water Change (Out), Kh director test, Ion director test, Alk, Cal, Mag, Trace Elements, Amino Acids, Auto Water Change (In), ATO.

7 of those 10 lines exit into the pump return section of the sump.

Nice setup and attention to detail. Great job.

I've always wondered how people run auto top off and automatic water changes through walls in homes. Envy you all who can and bet it saves so much heavy lifting.

I am moving my water storage around a bit in the garage for easier access and automation. As far as AWC and top off in my office the visualisation is just not working for me

 

[BZOFIQ]

I use a simple Brute can system set up vertically. Gravity flow from fresh water to saltwater can. I circulate using the same pump that I pull water from on the saltwater side.

All good except the metal quick-disconnect..... unless it's only for draining waste.