Second New DIY Two Part Recipe with Higher pH Boost

[MnFish1]

Set as a PH controller and the dosing pump is a standalone litermeter for each. Still working well targeting a PH of 8.3. I may bump up the alk by hand to see if it holds the low end of the PH better or if not target a lower PH say 8.2
When I first set it up the hydroxide wouldn't come on. I didn't realize it needs to drop below the lower setpoint before it powers that outlet then stays on until it hits the upper limit.

Interesting - I would consider, though, not dosing alkalinity based on pH, instead use an alkalinity measure. Though you're having success now, Seems like there are at least a couple scenarios where you could run into significant issues Trying to control pH and alkalinity this way, especially with the pH in such a tight range. For example, you have a party, or need to close windows tighter, you're on vacation and your CO2 goes up some - if your pH goes below 8.28 you will keep dosing alkalinity etc etc. Not a criticism, just a consideration

 

[Useful_Idiot]

Interesting - I would consider, though, not dosing alkalinity based on pH, instead use an alkalinity measure. Though you're having success now, Seems like there are at least a couple scenarios where you could run into significant issues Trying to control pH and alkalinity this way, especially with the pH in such a tight range. For example, you have a party, or need to close windows tighter, you're on vacation and your CO2 goes up some - if your pH goes below 8.28 you will keep dosing alkalinity etc etc. Not a criticism, just a consideration

Litermeters are stand alone dosers. I have them programmed to only dose 200 ml per day so that can't happen. Only one doser/litermeter is on at one time and one is always on.
I could probably make a riddle out of that.

 

[MnFish1]

Litermeters are stand alone dosers. I have them programmed to only dose 200 ml per day so that can't happen. Only one doser/litermeter is on at one time and one is always on.
I could probably make a riddle out of that.

Doesn't matter. You dont dose alkainity based on pH ever. IMHO

 

[MnFish1]

.duplicate

 

[MnFish1]

.duplicate

 

[MnFish1]

Going to repeat it - you don't dose alkalinity based on pH.

 

[MnFish1]

.duplicate

 

[MnFish1]

@Randy Holmes-Farley Is this a safe way of dosing alkalinity?

 

[gbroadbridge]

.duplicate

I think we understand your position

 

[MnFish1]

I think we understand your position

Just saying - it's not completely correct IMHO.

 

[Miami Reef]

@Randy Holmes-Farley Is this a safe way of dosing alkalinity?

Read this thread. I’ve asked this question before; Randy responded in that thread

Only dosing alkalinity to maintain pH at 8.3

Rhetorical question: What would happen if you set up a tank’s dosing system to only dose alkalinity to maintain a pH at 8.3? It would work similarly as an ORP probe to maintain ozone. If pH is lower than 8.3, the alkalinity (sodium hydroxide/sodium carbonate) would turn on. If pH is greater...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[Useful_Idiot]

I'm sorry if I'm not explaining this well.
Prior to this I ran one litermeter all day set at 200 ml which is my tanks consumption. Now that litermeter doses hydroxide most of the day. If the PH hits 8.3 it gets turned off and the other litermeter takes over and doses baking soda (which has a PH reducing effect) until the PH comes back down. No matter what the tank gets 200 ml of equal potency alk supplement, no more no less and alk stays stable. With PH more stable than it used to be.
So the PH only controls which supplement gets dosed not the amount of that supplement.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I'm sorry if I'm not explaining this well.
Prior to this I ran one litermeter all day set at 200 ml which is my tanks consumption. Now that litermeter doses hydroxide most of the day. If the PH hits 8.3 it gets turned off and the other litermeter takes over and doses baking soda (which has a PH reducing effect) until the PH comes back down. No matter what the tank gets 200 ml of equal potency alk supplement, no more no less and alk stays stable. With PH more stable than it used to be.
So the PH only controls which supplement gets dosed not the amount of that supplement.

That sounds like a nice plan.

How did you select the pH 8.3 switchover?

 

[Useful_Idiot]

That sounds like a nice plan.

How did you select the pH 8.3 switchover?

I was hoping I could maintain that but am still getting a .07 swing from 8.23-8.30. I may target 8.2 to see if it that's easier to maintain as the baking soda doesn't run much.
Maybe if I could get it to run half the time it would be even more stable.

 

[MnFish1]

The issue to me is not if the system is working 'correctly - but if something is not working correctly'. What happens when the pH is lower - whether from Measurement or environmental. My guess is that there would be precipitation

 

[MnFish1]

Read this thread. I’ve asked this question before; Randy responded in that thread

Only dosing alkalinity to maintain pH at 8.3

Rhetorical question: What would happen if you set up a tank’s dosing system to only dose alkalinity to maintain a pH at 8.3? It would work similarly as an ORP probe to maintain ozone. If pH is lower than 8.3, the alkalinity (sodium hydroxide/sodium carbonate) would turn on. If pH is greater...

www.reef2reef.com

this is a different situation to my reading - but thanks for the reference. Dosing alkalinity to maintain pH between 8.28 and 8.3 is different. This post says it all: "Yes this would be a problem because your alk would just keep rising because let’s just say your low ph is due to high co2 in the house by time you hit 8.3 your alk will be 12-14 and keep going up"

 

[ingchr1]

Tropic Marin Balling Part C has magnesium already. You don’t need to supplement magnesium if you are using balling part C...

Based on this post, magnesium may need to be supplemented.

Part C is mostly magnesium and sulfate by weight (since they are the two biggest ions by weight in seawater that are not sodium or chloride).

But it is not intended as a magnesium supplement (or any other ion supplement). Using Balling Parts A, B, and C are like adding calcium and alkalinity, and doing a small water change.


Carbocalcium does not contain magnesium. All For Reef, which is calcium formate plus other things, does.

 

[MnFish1]

Based on this post, magnesium may need to be supplemented.

I was under the impression that balling part c (sorry if I'm misquoting the name) - was the same as the recommendation from BRS protocol - to add xx amount of Mg Sulfate for every bag of Alk/Calcium added. These are all just chemicals.

 

[ingchr1]

I was under the impression that balling part c (sorry if I'm misquoting the name) - was the same as the recommendation from BRS protocol - to add xx amount of Mg Sulfate for every bag of Alk/Calcium added. These are all just chemicals.

Another post from that thread. The part C being discussed is the Tropic Marin Balling Part C. Biomagnesium is a Tropic Marin magnesium supplement.

I do not believe that Biomagnesium is intended to accomplish anything except supplement magnesium.

Part C is not intended to supplement magnesium, but to keep the sodium and chloride from sodium carbonate/bicarbonate and calcium chloride from slowly rising and effectively pushing down everything else (when salinity is maintained).

Thus, there are certainly times when it may be appropriate to use both at the same time to accomplish slightly different goals. They are not interchangeable or mutually exclusive.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Based on this post, magnesium may need to be supplemented.

Not sure what you are getting from my statements. Balling Part C has a lot of magnesium (more than any other ion except sulfate) but should not be used for purposes of boosting magnesium since it boosts lots of unrelated ions.