Structural Ideas: Building a stand for a 40B tank and sump

[nerdymunky]

Hey DIYers!

Later this month, I am going to be back in the reefkeeping after moving across the country and buying a house. I have a larger skimmer from previous builds and would like to use this with a refugium. Doing so, I have decided to run a 40b tank with a 40b sump until I inevitably decide to upgrade.

On to the point: Most use a smaller size sump to go with the tank, which allows straight pillars (2x4s) supporting from the tank corners to the floor. Since this can't be done when the tank and sump are the same size, I will want to build a larger stand for the sump to fit in, but I am curious what is everyone's recommendation on supporting the tank itself.

Would using larger lumber (4x4s or 2x6s) be sufficient to frame? Example: use a 2x4 frame sitting on top of a 4x4 frame with wider dimensions.
Or should I turn the sump 90 degrees to keep the tank\sump not being identical width\depth dimensions?

Any recommendations or ideas welcomed.

 

[Diesel]

Use 1" plywood.
I build my own stands and all from plywood in the last 30 years.
My 200 gallon tank is sitting on a plywood stand that I weight tested with 6000 lb

 

[nerdymunky]

Use 1" plywood.
I build my own stands and all from plywood in the last 30 years.
My 200 gallon tank is sitting on a plywood stand that I weight tested with 6000 lb

Wow, ok! So, just frame it as a, say, 4'x2' tank stand, and make sure the top plywood piece is 1" thick?

That would definitely be simpler than structures floating in my head.

 

[Diesel]

No 2"x4", just plywood.

 

[nerdymunky]

Oh, beautiful stand! I'll have to see how to get the cuts since the only saw I own is a sliding miter saw. Table saw seems mandatory for this.

 

[redfishbluefish]

You can go the plywood route.....3/4 would be enough.....the commercial stands are 3/4 plywood (or thinner).

However, for a DIYers, the easiest stand is with dimensional lumber. For under four foot.....a 40 B....all lumber should be 2 x 4's.

Now what you need to do is build the stand so a 40B will easily fit below. The top of the stand will have a 3/4 plywood top. Since the the stand is now wider and deeper than a 40 B, the top DT tank will have a "shelf" around the tank. There is no need for the edge of the tank to fit on the lumber of the frame. The plywood top will easily support the tank.

 

[Diesel]

Yes table saw makes it a lot easier but believe it or not I did it by hand.
I get more work satisfaction out of it when DIY when I leave the power tools locked up.
Yes I have a steady hand, still can hit center when at the range from 500 yards.

 

[nerdymunky]

You can go the plywood route.....3/4 would be enough.....the commercial stands are 3/4 plywood (or thinner).

However, for a DIYers, the easiest stand is with dimensional lumber. For under four foot.....a 40 B....all lumber should be 2 x 4's.

Now what you need to do is build the stand so a 40B will easily fit below. The top of the stand will have a 3/4 plywood top. Since the the stand is now wider and deeper than a 40 B, the top DT tank will have a "shelf" around the tank. There is no need for the edge of the tank to fit on the lumber of the frame. The plywood top will easily support the tank.

Awesome. Thanks for the diagram.

I've never built a stand with a top, so the idea of plywood supporting a tank never came to mind.

 

[nerdymunky]

Yes table saw makes it a lot easier but believe it or not I did it by hand.
I get more work satisfaction out of it when DIY when I leave the power tools locked up.
Yes I have a steady hand, still can hit center when at the range from 500 yards.

Definitely more satisfaction with a hand saw. Wish my hand was that steady.

 

[melev]

I made mine out of 1" x 3" oak strips for my 60g system. It's rock solid.

Here's a blog with some images: http://melevsreef.com/blog/new-frag-tank-running-01102016

 

[Jolly Roger]

Such a nice setup! You are only giving me ideas on my "forever" build once I retire from the military. I just got my upgraded setup done and will get some pictures up here eventually... until then... But to keep it on topic, I went full stupid on my stand with a 2x3 skeleton with oak plywood/hardwood wrap. The only thing I would change with my build is thinking of the possible upgrades you would encounter which isn't easy. I built a stand for one tank and changed that along with the sump so my ability to upgrade came at a sacrifice of the amount of room in the sump area. If I can stress one thing is build bigger than you would anticipate for future upgrades.

No 2"x4", just plywood.

 

[bobman]

I made a stand using the drawing above and it worked great. If you have to make the stand wider than the tank you would be fine using the above drawing but I would toss a couple braces instead of the one in the middle and toss a sheet of 3/4'' plywood across the top and that should hold just fine.

 

[nerdymunky]

I made a stand using the drawing above and it worked great. If you have to make the stand wider than the tank you would be fine using the above drawing but I would toss a couple braces instead of the one in the middle and toss a sheet of 3/4'' plywood across the top and that should hold just fine.

What kind of braces are you talking about and where?

 

[nerdymunky]

Such a nice setup! You are only giving me ideas on my "forever" build once I retire from the military. I just got my upgraded setup done and will get some pictures up here eventually... until then... But to keep it on topic, I went full stupid on my stand with a 2x3 skeleton with oak plywood/hardwood wrap. The only thing I would change with my build is thinking of the possible upgrades you would encounter which isn't easy. I built a stand for one tank and changed that along with the sump so my ability to upgrade came at a sacrifice of the amount of room in the sump area. If I can stress one thing is build bigger than you would anticipate for future upgrades.

Definitely agree. If I built it as a 4'x2' stand, that would allow me to upgrade to a 120 in the future (technically 150, but I don't like the added height).

 

[bobman]

If you look at the drawing of the stand there is a brace running across the middle at the top of the stand. I would instead have 2 braces across the top to disperse the weight more evenly. Especially if you plan on upgrading to a 120 later.

Basically something like this (sorry my paint skills suck)

 

[cromag27]

2xs are horrible as they can warp and twist. 1" plywood is also unnecessary. you only need 3/4" plywood. even the cheap stuff at the big box stores will work. the keys are accurate cuts and using the correct method of assembly. I construct stands/canopies at a professional level.

 

[nerdymunky]

If you look at the drawing of the stand there is a brace running across the middle at the top of the stand. I would instead have 2 braces across the top to disperse the weight more evenly. Especially if you plan on upgrading to a 120 later.

Ah, understood. Yes, I didn't think 1 was sufficient.

 

[cromag27]

This stand is 8' long for a 200g+ tank. notice how there are no cross supports? again, unnecessary.

 

[nerdymunky]

This stand is 8' long for a 200g+ tank. notice how there are no cross supports? again, unnecessary.

I don't disagree that plywood is a better way to go. Given that I only have a miter saw makes using plywood much more difficult. I don't trust myself on getting precise cuts with a hand saw.

 

[cromag27]

I don't disagree that plywood is a better way to go. Given that I only have a miter saw makes using plywood much more difficult. I don't trust myself on getting precise cuts with a hand saw.

There are few situations where I need to add 2x4s to some plywood stands. in those cases I plane and jointer the 2xs first, then cut with a miter and stop block.