Thinking of switching to Metal Halide for my 125 gallon tank

[AllSignsPointToFish]

I've been running three Kessils in my 125 gallon display tank since last November. I used to run twin 175W 10000K Ushios on my old 90 gallon tank. I like the LEDs, but I've been thinking about metal halides due to shading associated with the LEDs. Also, someone made a point earlier today that they didn't save any energy since their heater(s) have to run almost continuously, which is the situation I'm in.

I would like to run three 150W or 175W lamps on my tank. I would prefer DIY retrofit kits to the premanufactured fixtures. I would also like to find a dimmable ballast that I could control with my Apex. I may or may not keep my twin 80W T5 actinics.

What are your general thoughts? Is there a dimmable ballast that takes a 0-10V input? Are special bulbs required for use with dimmable ballasts?

The technology has changed a lot since I last ran metal halides. I would also like to hear opinions on a lighting acclimation regimen for the transition from LEDs to metal halides.

For reference, I currently run three Kessil A360WEs at 100% (with a ramp up and down) along with twin 80W T5s for 20 minutes per day. My total current wattage (I realize that is an old metric) is 270W+160W or 430W, and I would be going to at least 450W or possibly 525W of metal halide.

 

[mcarroll]

Just a thought....

Since you're already in the Kessils and don't hate them, it might be cheaper and better to address the issue by adding another A360W.

Three like you have is minimal according to Kessil, so your experience does make some sense. But at the same time I think the LED=shadow meme you've undoubtedly read about is overplayed.

Stark shadows are created by any spot-type light.

Halides can have the same problem, but they do tend to scatter (and waste) more light than LED's, which can help to a degree with shadows, but not much.

A fourth light will help a lot.

 

[mcarroll]

And I dunno if you can still get Radium 150DE's, but in the power-range you're looking at, that's what I'd try to run. Loved my Radiums before I switched to DIY leds. (Love my leds too.)

 

[reefwiser]

Reefbrite does sell a dimmable ballast but it is for 25o watt lamps. An you can not totally dim a MH bulb only down to 30%. I switch to a Mh/led fixture and it has been great getting back to not messing with lighting So I can concentrate on water quality issues instead of lighting issues.

 

[AllSignsPointToFish]

Reefbrite does sell a dimmable ballast but it is for 25o watt lamps. An you can not totally dim a MH bulb only down to 30%. I switch to a Mh/led fixture and it has been great getting back to not messing with lighting So I can concentrate on water quality issues instead of lighting issues.

30% would be fine. The Kessils have to see at least 13% output voltage from the Apex before they even kick on.

 

[rtparty]

To my knowledge there are no dimmable 80w T5 ballasts in the US. Hope that helps

 

[AllSignsPointToFish]

Just a thought....

Since you're already in the Kessils and don't hate them, it might be cheaper and better to address the issue by adding another A360W.

Three like you have is minimal according to Kessil, so your experience does make some sense. But at the same time I think the LED=shadow meme you've undoubtedly read about is overplayed.

Stark shadows are created by any spot-type light.

Halides can have the same problem, but they do tend to scatter (and waste) more light than LED's, which can help to a degree with shadows, but not much.

A fourth light will help a lot.

I have been considering this. One issue is that my aquarium has two horizontal braces that divide the surface of the water into three distinct areas. As such, a single fourth light will be difficult to position where I don't lose a lot of the light shining on the brace:

I was thinking of filling in the areas with supplemental Kessils (either the A80 or A160), especially at the ends of the tank. I was thinking of buying four additional lights, one for each end and two for the middle front of the tank. I can really see the effects of shading on my shady side of SPS corals, especially my Oculina and Acropora. One of my biggest complaints is having to manage all of the darn power supplies associated with LEDs. At least with three properly-sized metal halide lamps, there would only be three ballasts to deal with, not 4-7 power supplies if I chose to supplement my existing Kessils with additional LEDs.

 

[Breadman03]

I'm pretty interested in the Reefbrite 0-10v ballast for my 400 watt Hamilton fixture. My wife like the halide look better, and we all know what that means.

Something you might consider is supplementing with a T-5 setup that would fill in the gaps without needing to totally replace your current setup.

 

[AllSignsPointToFish]

To my knowledge there are no dimmable 80w T5 ballasts in the US. Hope that helps

BRS shows one for T5s, but I was really looking for dimmable HID ballasts.

 

[AllSignsPointToFish]

I'm pretty interested in the Reefbrite 0-10v ballast for my 400 watt Hamilton fixture. My wife like the halide look better, and we all know what that means.

Something you might consider is supplementing with a T-5 setup that would fill in the gaps without needing to totally replace your current setup.

I already supplement with two 80W T5s with actinic bulbs.

 

[rtparty]

BRS shows one for T5s, but I was really looking for dimmable HID ballasts.

Where?

They show 24, 39 and 54w for dimmable. There are no 110v spec T5 ballasts that are dimmable. Only in 220v version. It's why you can not get an ATI in the dimmable version for the 60" fixtures.

However, that's moot since I read the post wrong and you were talking MH instead

 

[AllSignsPointToFish]

Where?

They show 24, 39 and 54w for dimmable. There are no 110v spec T5 ballasts that are dimmable. Only in 220v version. It's why you can not get an ATI in the dimmable version for the 60" fixtures.

However, that's moot since I read the post wrong and you were talking MH instead

Try these:
https://www.1000bulbs.com/category/dimmable-t5-fluorescent+ballasts/

 

[ksc]

Maybe you can run a 54watt and a 28 watt in series and get it to both fire and dim an 80w bulb. Or maybe just blow one up.....

 

[rtparty]

Try these:
https://www.1000bulbs.com/category/dimmable-t5-fluorescent+ballasts/

Still not seeing an 80w in there. They had 14, 28 and 54...

 

[AllSignsPointToFish]

Sorry, I missed the fact you were looking for 80W ballasts.

 

[aabjones888]

Sell your kessils and u will have plenty of money for A BA halide system! I love Halides!

 

[mcarroll]

I have been considering this. One issue is that my aquarium has two horizontal braces that divide the surface of the water into three distinct areas.

I was thinking of filling in the areas with supplemental Kessils (either the A80 or A160)

I can really see the effects of shading on my shady side of SPS corals, especially my Oculina and Acropora.

One of my biggest complaints is having to manage all of the darn power supplies associated with LEDs.

At least with three properly-sized metal halide lamps, there would only be three ballasts to deal with, not 4-7 power supplies if I chose to supplement my existing Kessils with additional LEDs.

I totally understand.

I think three AP700's might be your ticket. How do the dimensions mesh with the size of the openings in the top of your tank?

 

[AllSignsPointToFish]

I totally understand.

I think three AP700's might be your ticket. How do the dimensions mesh with the size of the openings in the top of your tank?

I have not looked at the AP700s primarily due to cost, so I don't know how the dimensions fit up.

 

[AllSignsPointToFish]

I totally understand.

I think three AP700's might be your ticket. How do the dimensions mesh with the size of the openings in the top of your tank?

It appears that three AP700s would work with my tank. I would have to relocate my T5s (or remove them completely). I wonder how much these things weigh?

 

[AllSignsPointToFish]

I guess the AP700s are not Apex compatible :/