What does my angel have?
- Thread starter Slot
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melypr1985
totally addicted
Hi @Slot ! I'm sorry but it's difficult to see anything on his face. I think I see what your talking about but it's not clear what it is from the picture. A more in-focus picture would be needed. In the mean time, is he having any troubles besides that? Lack of eating, flashing, scratching, heavy breathing, other discoloration (white spots, dusty/dirty appearance) even if it came and went away recently?
He never ate as well as my clowns or hi hat but if anything hes eating more. No trouble breathing but he keeps his mouth a little open sometimes. Does rub agaisnt the rock or anything, doesnt seem like anythings bothering him
melypr1985
totally addicted
Ok, it doesn't seem like an emergency. I'll wait for better photos to see if I can see something that will help.
Shes a fast one its hard to get a good pic of her. Thats actually where it started and grew like a big circle around her mouth, then a small dot right next to it. Too bit for ich and doesnt look like brook
melypr1985
totally addicted
Right and it could be an infection of some sort. When you get a better picture we'll hopefully be able to tell you more.
4FordFamily
Tang, Angel, and Wrasse Nerd!
The pealing and ashyness remind me of brook but those spots look like ich to me. @Humblefish @melypr1985
melypr1985
totally addicted
It's not obvious from the pictures, but what your describing is brook with the skin peeling and being ashy looking. The pale circles could be one of many things, from a fluke to the onset of an infection. I do see some spots on him that could be ick but they are pretty small for ick. It's also possible that he has multiple things going on here.
The best course of action right now would be a freshwater dip and would be my first step here. This will do a lot of things for the fish:
Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes & "Black Ich", Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.
How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.
Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.
For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.
Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.
Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.
The best course of action right now would be a freshwater dip and would be my first step here. This will do a lot of things for the fish:
Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes & "Black Ich", Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.
How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.
Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.
For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.
Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.
Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.
melypr1985
totally addicted
I would transfer him to a QT after the dip, so that he's already out of the tank for treatment. Please report back after the dip 
melypr1985
totally addicted
Info on Brook, because I think it's likely that it's in play here:
Acriflavine: I have no first-hand experience with this medication, so everything I know about it comes from one LFS (treating Brooklynella), Google Scholar or other literature. It supposedly is effective against protozoans, bacterial infections and external fungal diseases; however Brook & Uronema are the only two I would bank on. It also is supposedly “reef safe”, so long as it is not mixed with any other medication (very important!)
How To Treat - Follow the directions on the label of whatever product you are using. Acriflavine is often mixed with other medications; howeverAcriflavine-MS is the pure form (and most likely to be “reef safe.”)
Pros - Alternative treatment for Brooklynella & Uronema (useful in locales where formalin is banned); possibly “reef safe.”
Cons/Side Effects - Acriflavine is a “new” medication (to me), so it’s full range of effect is not completely understood. Same goes for possible side effects.
Acriflavine: I have no first-hand experience with this medication, so everything I know about it comes from one LFS (treating Brooklynella), Google Scholar or other literature. It supposedly is effective against protozoans, bacterial infections and external fungal diseases; however Brook & Uronema are the only two I would bank on. It also is supposedly “reef safe”, so long as it is not mixed with any other medication (very important!)
How To Treat - Follow the directions on the label of whatever product you are using. Acriflavine is often mixed with other medications; howeverAcriflavine-MS is the pure form (and most likely to be “reef safe.”)
Pros - Alternative treatment for Brooklynella & Uronema (useful in locales where formalin is banned); possibly “reef safe.”
Cons/Side Effects - Acriflavine is a “new” medication (to me), so it’s full range of effect is not completely understood. Same goes for possible side effects.
More treatment options for brook can be found here: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/brooklynella.247938/
In this situation I would personally try something a little different: Run this fish thru TTM (for ich) while simultaneously dosing Furan-2, Kanaplex, Metroplex into the water. The antibiotics should help if this is a bacterial infection, while Metroplex treats brook. You'd be covered all ways. You'd even have the option of dosing acriflavine (in lieu of the other three) during the first transfer to provide temporary relief for brook. Then transfer the fish into a "clean QT" after 72 hrs and dose Metroplex just to be sure brook is knocked out.
In this situation I would personally try something a little different: Run this fish thru TTM (for ich) while simultaneously dosing Furan-2, Kanaplex, Metroplex into the water. The antibiotics should help if this is a bacterial infection, while Metroplex treats brook. You'd be covered all ways.
You'd even have the option of dosing acriflavine (in lieu of the other three) during the first transfer to provide temporary relief for brook. Then transfer the fish into a "clean QT" after 72 hrs and dose Metroplex just to be sure brook is knocked out.Similar threads
