Ash's 400 Gallon Reef

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Ashish Patel

Ashish Patel

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I just did massive 50% water change - Tank is in a massive state of shock, which was expected using Instant ocean salt and just not recommended to do this volume. I did add 30ML of Muratic acid to reduce the Alk but it just went to 9.4DKH so I am sure I'll have to work my Alk down in the coming days. I decided to the reduce my led light intensity from 64% to 50% for a few days.

Yesterday I noticed things where not looking happy, usually a good sign PO are low is my one Acan is not happy. Sure enough phosphates where at 5PPB. I was going to do the waterchange yesterday but with these low number I decided to do it today and last night stopped using Lanthum Chloride (which I was only using a small amount over the past week but still PO seems to bottom out with Vodka alone). Low nutrients seems to cause other issues but right now I have out of control NO3 and ultra low PO, which equals very unstable and unhealthy environment for my corals.
 
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Ashish Patel

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I'll have to mention this but Instant ocean salt is trash for large waterchanges. I think its fine for smaller waterchanges or even continuous but geez even running it through a 5 micron filter sock its always foggy and always has particulates that do not dissolve. I am ok to use IO but dang can I get a even better discount or become a sponsor or something? :astonished-face:
 

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I been wanting to find a cheap used washing machine and put it in my basement for this reason. I could use my household machine but don't think my wife would be too happy :) Iam not sure I would feel comfortable using bleach unless i had 10 + socks in rotation and they where dried out for a few weeks.

Does the Bleach really make a big difference?
Yes, the bleach is what kills and breaks down the bacteria and other organics. There is zero risk from using it if you let the socks dry out completely or if you use something like Prime to neutralize them afterwards. Manually scrubbing them is not a fun time! :D
 
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Ashish Patel

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Yes, the bleach is what kills and breaks down the bacteria and other organics. There is zero risk from using it if you let the socks dry out completely or if you use something like Prime to neutralize them afterwards. Manually scrubbing them is not a fun time! :D
I agree thats why on my other systems I never used it for years and just used black sponge filters, which had their own problems but I started using filter socks in the summer when my nutrients where going up. Before I got 3+ days out of 1 filter sock. Which is unheard of with a 500 gallon system but since they took about 10 minutes each to clean and easily to pull them inside out multiple times, I made it a point to just do it by hand. My house main water pressure is trash (35PSI) and i was still able to clean them fairly decent but now the slime build up is making it a chore. I started soaking them in water in hopes of the slime loosening up but dont really notice a difference.

I am strongly considering getting those roller fleece pads and just making a DIY version where I can have it roll onto a tray and just manually roll it. some of these fleece roles are 300 feet at a reasonable price so think this may save me many hours of maintenance.
 
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Ashish Patel

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Man I tested my NO3. Right is b4 50% waterchange. Keep in mind diluted 1:10 so maybe I am at 150ppm

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I went back to my tray for mechanical. Filter socks no longer are working for me after carbon dosing. Eventually I want to get a fleece roller. I am liking what I am seeing from red sea brand but honestly looking for something that's low cost maintenence, but fleece rollers remove organics before they break down so consider it the ultimate in filtration

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Have a big bacteria bloom so decided to add the UV sterilizer back onto my closed loop. Not sure if anyone's done this but in years past it was always a chore to clean the UV so I made it so I can install in under 60 seconds.


Free standing on piece of pine. Tee, valve and union to remove inlet and a simple 3/4" bulk head along the eurobrace.


I had the UV running in the sump yesterday but didn't notice big difference in clarity. Probably bc I was just taking water from the sump and the inlet/outlet where close by.

I've had great result running it on my closed loop since the flow is random most of the night going from super slow flow to high (Reefcreast). It works well for ich parasites so hoping it does the same for bacteria bloom.


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Finally added 10 frags to my sump. The lighting schedule is opposite of the main display. Once I have algae growing I will move 2 turbos from the display to this area. I purposely build the frag rack tall enough so they can sleep under this area. Since I don't want them roaming to the skimmer, ato, and return pump section, i have made a divider that will keep them out aswell as help keep the light out of the other side. I have some black out material that I may hang to reduce light spill to the filteration chambers.
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Ashish Patel

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I noticed my return pump was not performing consistently after vodka dosing. Constantly having to adjust the bean animal or power on and off. I just cleaned it and all the slime build up around the impellers probably reduced flow close to 40-50%.

I also removed the carbon reactor. The pump and chamber just became a slime filter. I am back to just adding the 3 chemi pure bags to the overflow box, which truthfully where just as effective and easier to deal with.

I am also liking the filter pad. Even though it's getting clogged daily I can rinse it and reuse until it's dead. I do have to make more holes in the tray since it overflows when the center cutt outs become clogged. Making 60% of the pad not even useful.

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Finally Killed the power to this system after 4.5 years. This system saved alot of frags but once I got the ato pump power supply wet in the summer it was a rap. Daily evaporation was extreme. Probably 4 gallons so 2 days without topping of for sure screwed up any stability it had. I lost alot of colonies from when I started. This system while neglected still had to be fed, topped off and cared for so I'm glad i can finally focus on my QT and display tank

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Here is my ICP from June 2023. i just get it done because I dose Iron and Lugols Iodine weekly and the ICP test is the only way I can be sure I am not over doing it. After this test came back I doubled my weekly dose to 20 drops of lugols per week and 20ML of Redsea Iron per week.

I was surprised Manganese is high as it is. I believe Red sea Iron does have this as a supplement.


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Ashish Patel

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I ordered some Acros from Frag House Corals. This is the first time I am ordering from this vendor and honestly, first time I am making an online purchase since WWC in 2018. All these pieces are WYSIWYG and will be dipped to death and in my QT for 2+ months.

Let me know what you think of my choices!

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