EMERGENCY TANK FAILURE RED SEA REEFER

Wrassenaround

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Thanks everyone. Red Sea called me directly shortly after submitting the ticket and are trying to help. ~3 months out of warranty and they want to honor it with their new model. They weren’t able to tell me that their seem technology has been improved, but did reference various structural improvements to stand and tank construction. To be honest I’m uneasy moving forward with another Red Sea tank, but the customer service and optimism about their new design is weighing strong compared to starting over with another brand and the associated costs/logistics

Have totes on hand and weighing options. Need to better understand timing of
replacement. Tape is holding for now and water level is just high enough for corals and inhabitants when moving things around.

Want to save media in the sump so moving that in tank as well.

Need to make sure heaters and probes are situated so I don’t cook the tank.

Not out of the weeds yet but thankful for being able to turn to this forum for logistical (and honestly emotional) support. I called BRS too, and they answered.

If a mod can fix the title of the thread that would be appreciated as well. (Title fixed)
I hate to see your tank has busted. I also understand the negativity towards redsea. However, I have a G2 system and it's been running for nearly 3 years now and I have had zero issues. I regularly check the seams for air bubbles and have none to this date.
 

SupraSaltyReefer

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@FortyFour44 Sorry to hear this happened. Can you please fill out the quick 10 question survey? Thanks!

 

Dom

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Definatly won't hurt but I wonder if these will really help since the seam didn't look like the separation started at the top. I'm not an engineer or anything even close.

Well, it appears that these will prevent a full blowout of the front panel, but seam leaks would still be a concern.
 

Soren

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Just ordered...
1729284539937.png

Would like to read up on this. Can you send a link please?
This seems like a helpful idea, but I doubt this makes much difference in terms of structure. I could be wrong, as my opinion is based on building structural engineering experience rather than aquarium experience. Is there evidence of these being used structurally, or are those pieces for adding corner rims to mount/retain lids?

The stress on the glass panels and seams is much greater at the middle of the panel for the front panel and estimated approximately 1/3 total depth from the bottom of the tank for the side panels. This is due to a concept called "moment" if you want to research the physics terms. The higher pressure in the middle of the panel is supported by the tension within the glass panel itself as well as tension on the seams of the tank.

Though pressure is equal horizontally across the panel based on water depth, the amount of resistive force is much greater at the corners than in the middle of the panel since the other glass panel is directly pulling back on the glass resisting the pressure. Due to this, rimmed tanks gain a small amount of extra pressure resistance from the perimeter rim, but much more pressure resistance with middle bracing, similar to the effect of eurobracing.

This is why "standard" rimmed aquariums commonly available at popular pet stores always have the cross bracing between the longest panels, typically 1 middle brace for 75g tanks and 2 braces nearly splitting the tank length into thirds. These braces are on both the top and bottom rim.

This is also why rimless tanks need thicker glass than rimmed tanks, since thicker glass has more internal tension resistance which decreases/eliminates the need for other bracing.

Sorry if this is too much during an emergency, look into it on your own time. Also note that I am not claiming to be an expert, but I have at least a little relevant engineering experience, though I doubt my abilities to convey it in a digestible format...
 

Soren

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How bout somthing like this

This seems much more useful than individual corners. Note that it supports the entire length of the panel and has a middle brace from front to back.

...of course this also converts a rimless tank to a rimmed tank. Might be counterproductive since the tank was likely purchased rimless intentionally to avoid the less-preferred aesthetic of rims.
 
OP
OP
FortyFour44

FortyFour44

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@FortyFour44 Sorry to hear this happened. Can you please fill out the quick 10 question survey? Thanks!

Should I fill it out twice?
 

ChiCity

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This seems like a helpful idea, but I doubt this makes much difference in terms of structure. I could be wrong, as my opinion is based on building structural engineering experience rather than aquarium experience. Is there evidence of these being used structurally, or are those pieces for adding corner rims to mount/retain lids?

The stress on the glass panels and seams is much greater at the middle of the panel for the front panel and estimated approximately 1/3 total depth from the bottom of the tank for the side panels. This is due to a concept called "moment" if you want to research the physics terms. The higher pressure in the middle of the panel is supported by the tension within the glass panel itself as well as tension on the seams of the tank.

Though pressure is equal horizontally across the panel based on water depth, the amount of resistive force is much greater at the corners than in the middle of the panel since the other glass panel is directly pulling back on the glass resisting the pressure. Due to this, rimmed tanks gain a small amount of extra pressure resistance from the perimeter rim, but much more pressure resistance with middle bracing, similar to the effect of eurobracing.

This is why "standard" rimmed aquariums commonly available at popular pet stores always have the cross bracing between the longest panels, typically 1 middle brace for 75g tanks and 2 braces nearly splitting the tank length into thirds. These braces are on both the top and bottom rim.

This is also why rimless tanks need thicker glass than rimmed tanks, since thicker glass has more internal tension resistance which decreases/eliminates the need for other bracing.

Sorry if this is too much during an emergency, look into it on your own time. Also note that I am not claiming to be an expert, but I have at least a little relevant engineering experience, though I doubt my abilities to convey it in a digestible format...


loved reading this!
thank you
 

VintageReefer

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Definatly won't hurt but I wonder if these will really help since the seam didn't look like the separation started at the top. I'm not an engineer or anything even close.
I don’t think a 3d printed material would be strong enough, and the issue seems to be bowing/separating glass usually towards the inside/middle of the panel
 

Slocke

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Can’t be bothered to read the whole thread but was someone suggesting large fish cause tank seam failures?

So some quick math. I found that the force of the pressure on the long pane of a full 4x2x2 tank is, I believe, a constant 2222 Newtons.

A sailfish can accelerate at 17.5m/s^2.

2222/17.5 = 127kg = 280lbs.

So a 280lb sailfish accelerating at full speed would only equal the force of pressure on this tank. Assuming a tank is designed to withstand 3x what it is supposed to hold (the general minimum for engineering) you’d need two 280lb sailfish or one 560lb sailfish to swim away at full speed to break a tank seam.

Someone check my math?
 

GARRIGA

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Can’t be bothered to read the whole thread but was someone suggesting large fish cause tank seam failures?

So some quick math. I found that the force of the pressure on the long pane of a full 4x2x2 tank is, I believe, a constant 2222 Newtons.

A sailfish can accelerate at 17.5m/s^2.

2222/17.5 = 127kg = 280lbs.

So a 280lb sailfish accelerating at full speed would only equal the force of pressure on this tank. Assuming a tank is designed to withstand 3x what it is supposed to hold (the general minimum for engineering) you’d need two 280lb sailfish or one 560lb sailfish to swim away at full speed to break a tank seam.

Someone check my math?
But did you take into account the pointy nose :rolling-on-the-floor-laughing:
 

BetteMidler

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Can’t be bothered to read the whole thread but was someone suggesting large fish cause tank seam failures?

So some quick math. I found that the force of the pressure on the long pane of a full 4x2x2 tank is, I believe, a constant 2222 Newtons.

A sailfish can accelerate at 17.5m/s^2.

2222/17.5 = 127kg = 280lbs.

So a 280lb sailfish accelerating at full speed would only equal the force of pressure on this tank. Assuming a tank is designed to withstand 3x what it is supposed to hold (the general minimum for engineering) you’d need two 280lb sailfish or one 560lb sailfish to swim away at full speed to break a tank seam.

Someone check my math?
seal-window.gif
 

Letmeusemyemail

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I have a 1st gen rsr 350. I am starting to see some water creep into the seam on the right side. I sent pics to Red Sea but the tank is out of factory warranty by 8 months.

They offered me $800 for a whole new tank and stand. I told them I only wanted the display tank and not the stand b.c I will do my own plumbing underneath. They said that is not an available option. Unfortunately, I am not ready to commit $3k to another tank.
 

littlefoxx

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If anybody has a reliable contact at Red Sea, please share. It’s all hands on deck right now. I can’t find anything.
They do that for a reason… I dont have a contact though :(
 

littlefoxx

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You had 2 Red Sea failures. Unbelievable. My LFS is constantly being hired for Red Sea tank rescues and posts it all the time on IG. It amazes me that people will still defend this company.

Best of luck setting up a temporary home. Everything should be fine.
Same. They just sent me an email trying to get me to upgrade my red sea max 260 (sold a while ago lol) to their new gen with a new 5 year warranty for extra peace of mind!! Tf no way Ill have another one in my house. This post just is another one in a long line… OP I hope you can save your fish and corals!! You having two failures is just plain awful
 

littlefoxx

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I have a 1st gen rsr 350. I am starting to see some water creep into the seam on the right side. I sent pics to Red Sea but the tank is out of factory warranty by 8 months.

They offered me $800 for a whole new tank and stand. I told them I only wanted the display tank and not the stand b.c I will do my own plumbing underneath. They said that is not an available option. Unfortunately, I am not ready to commit $3k to another tank.
And if you did get that 3k go with a different brand!!
 

littlefoxx

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I hope your damages were minimal. I hate seeing these type of red sea threads still popping up after all these years. I think I'd trust an aqueon tank more than a red sea at this point. :anxious-face-with-sweat:
Hey what do you have against Aqueon??? Lol my 125 was Aqueon. I had it two years, the guy before me for 6 years or so! Only got rid of it cause my fish needed a bigger tank! Lol
 

VintageReefer

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Hey what do you have against Aqueon??? Lol my 125 was Aqueon. I had it two years, the guy before me for 6 years or so! Only got rid of it cause my fish needed a bigger tank! Lol
my 75 is an aqueon reef ready is 12+ years old and I have no complaints or issues
0C51B22D-F2B2-4E2A-8D33-43E28D046F95.jpeg
 

Tamberav

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Thanks everyone. Red Sea called me directly shortly after submitting the ticket and are trying to help. ~3 months out of warranty and they want to honor it with their new model. They weren’t able to tell me that their seem technology has been improved, but did reference various structural improvements to stand and tank construction. To be honest I’m uneasy moving forward with another Red Sea tank, but the customer service and optimism about their new design is weighing strong compared to starting over with another brand and the associated costs/logistics

Have totes on hand and weighing options. Need to better understand timing of
replacement. Tape is holding for now and water level is just high enough for corals and inhabitants when moving things around.

Want to save media in the sump so moving that in tank as well.

Need to make sure heaters and probes are situated so I don’t cook the tank.

Not out of the weeds yet but thankful for being able to turn to this forum for logistical (and honestly emotional) support. I called BRS too, and they answered.

If a mod can fix the title of the thread that would be appreciated as well. (Title fixed)

I would take the FREE replacement but eurobrace the bottom inside and maybe top.

If they didn't offer a free one I would go with a large custom acrylic tank and sleep like a baby.
 

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