LETS see these DIY Auto Top Off containers

[Ratherbeflyen]

Any problems with the float valve?

Have any systems in place to detect if it gets stuck open?

I've never had a problem with the float valve. For full disclosure, this tank has not been running very long, but I used a float valve on my last tank for ~2 1/2 years and it "failed" twice. Both times because a cord or something else interfered with movement of the float. The actual "valve" portion of the float valve only has filtered RODI water and I have it set well above the sumps waterline, so it's never been clogged open.

I also oversized the acrylic mounting plate to prevent any cords from contacting the float itself. (It has holes because its a recycled piece that was a failed attempt to build a probe holder.)

Another fail safe is the needle valve is set to a slow drip. It would probably take 2 days for the 10 gallons of RODI to drip into the tank/sump. It's a 220 display with a 75 gallon DIY sump that I made with the ability to handle an extra 10 gallons of water without overflowing, with the return pump off. So even if the float valve does fail on/open, its not a problem. If it fails closed, the return pump sucks air and the sound and bubbles it creates is very easy to notice. If all else fails, I also lined my stand with a PVC shower pan liner to contain any drips and small floods.

So no, I don't have any alarms for a stuck float valve.

 

[User]

I've never had a problem with the float valve. For full disclosure, this tank has not been running very long, but I used a float valve on my last tank for ~2 1/2 years and it "failed" twice. Both times because a cord or something else interfered with movement of the float. The actual "valve" portion of the float valve only has filtered RODI water and I have it set well above the sumps waterline, so it's never been clogged open.

I also oversized the acrylic mounting plate to prevent any cords from contacting the float itself. (It has holes because its a recycled piece that was a failed attempt to build a probe holder.)

Another fail safe is the needle valve is set to a slow drip. It would probably take 2 days for the 10 gallons of RODI to drip into the tank/sump. It's a 220 display with a 75 gallon DIY sump that I made with the ability to handle an extra 10 gallons of water without overflowing, with the return pump off. So even if the float valve does fail on/open, its not a problem. If it fails closed, the return pump sucks air and the sound and bubbles it creates is very easy to notice. If all else fails, I also lined my stand with a PVC shower pan liner to contain any drips and small floods.

So no, I don't have any alarms for a stuck float valve.

Sold!

I’ve been trying to decide between this option using stuff from my parts box, and buying an ATO for ~$100. Your setup just convinced me.

Link to plastic needle valve?

 

[ReefSharkBuilder]

I personally purchased an optical sensor, peristaltic pump, arduino mega and a 5 gallon container. It all cost about 60$. I set up the optical sensor inside the tank to check water level and turn on and off the pump. I programmed the arduino to know how much water is in the bucket and when it pumps it counts how much is exported to the tank. Then when the water level reaches a certain amount the arduino turnes on an led letting me know it is close to being empty. It requires a little knowledge of programming but not anything you cant learn on youtube.

 

[Ratherbeflyen]

Sold!

I’ve been trying to decide between this option using stuff from my parts box, and buying an ATO for ~$100. Your setup just convinced me.

Link to plastic needle valve?

I actually recycled the brass needle valve that came with the BRS rodi filter that was laying around in my parts box. You can unscrew the needle valve from the saddle, its standard 1/8" pipe thread. It looks like you can buy it still.

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/self-piercing-saddle-valve-1-37241d744c96e57d29332979a23b8c5c.html

 

[User]

I actually recycled the brass needle valve that came with the BRS rodi filter, that was laying around in my parts box. You can unscrew the needle valve from the saddle, its standard 1/8" pipe thread. It looks like you can buy it still.

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/self-piercing-saddle-valve-1-37241d744c96e57d29332979a23b8c5c.html

You don’t see any effects of copper leaching from the brass? RoDI is super reactive and loves to strip ions out of stuff

 

[Ratherbeflyen]

You don’t see any effects of copper leaching from the brass? RoDI is super reactive and loves to strip ions out of stuff

I have not seen any ill effects so far, though as previously mentioned, the tank has only been running for ~5 months.

My previous quarantine tank had a really high tech $.99 dollar store shoe box that has an inline plastic needle valve from the same parts box left over from a drip irrigation system. Ending in the same float valve.

 

[User]

I have not seen any ill effects so far, though as previously mentioned, the tank has only been running for ~5 months.

My previous quarantine tank had a really high tech $.99 dollar store shoe box that has an inline plastic needle valve from the same parts box left over from a drip irrigation system. Ending in the same float valve.

Perfect for my 40b QT! Thanks!

 

[EW_Fish]

These are AWESOME Lets see more!

 

[Niterunner77]

Ever consider adding a door panel over hte front of it to keep the sleek look across the whole span?

I have! Just haven’t had a chance to put anything up. When I get it up I’ll post another pic!

 

[EW_Fish]

23G Slim brute can (right side of pic)
As it’s name says it’s slim and fit perfectly in my limited space and holds a lot of RODI water for my 180G+30G frag evaporation! Just drilled a float valve into the side to connect to my RODI system in the next room over when I’m low. I have a optical sensor in the bottom hooked to my Neptune Ststems ATK to set an alarm off when it’s low. So I never have to move the brute can to fill it! Then built a shelf over the top to conceal it!

I had bought a slim brute also but when I filled it stand alone the sides bowed out on me. I see that you have it snugged in there which is good. I was going to use to for a saltwater mixing station but instead went with 2 of the 27g centrex plastics tote

 

[Rockit]

Beer keg

 

[Rcpilot]

Not necessarily simple, but reletively cheap and DIY.

I built a DIY float switch controlled system back in 2009. It's VERY similar to the ones that you can now get from some online vendors. People thought it was stupid and overly complicated in 2009. Now somebody else is making money off my idea.

The RO unit is controleld by the float switches in the 10g RO reservoir. There's 3 float switches in the RO reservoir. The top most switch is an emergency stop switch. If anything happens to the other 2 switches, and the tank fills to that highest float, it will shut off all power to the RO unit.

The sump is controlled in a simliar manner, but in reverse. The top 2 switches control the sump water depth (the topoff). As the 1st switch drops - nothing happens. the 2nd switch is about 3/4" lower. After that 2nd switch drops, it triggers the small powerhead in the 10g RO tank to come on and top up the sump. 2nd Switch comes up - nothing happens. Top switch comes up and that shuts off the small powerhead in the RO tank.

The lower switch in the sump is an emergency stop. If the RO unit were to overfill the RO tank - that top switch would kill the RO unit. I'd then have about 8g of RO to top off. That lasted about a week. For a week, I'd still have a functioning top off. After the RO tank ran dry, you would begin to see evaportation slowly lowering the level in the return section of the sump.
So if the RO tank ever went dry, then the sump level would start to go down as water evaporated. As the sump finally dropped all the way down to the lowest switch - that's an emergency shut off to protect my return pump from frying. At that point - the tank would rely on internal powerheads to continue circulation - even though the sump was basically "dead in the water" .

I have plans to use this same system again. I kept the components. I also have plans to incorporate an automatic water change system. I'll not be posting that online.

 

[wsoldier]

23G Slim brute can (right side of pic)
As it’s name says it’s slim and fit perfectly in my limited space and holds a lot of RODI water for my 180G+30G frag

I was thinking this slim trashcan as well, but what lid did you get? All I could find at Home Depot was the swivel lid that didn't seem like it would prevent evaporation. Thanks.

 

[JJ1234567]

Not necessarily simple, but reletively cheap and DIY.

I built a DIY float switch controlled system back in 2009. It's VERY similar to the ones that you can now get from some online vendors. People thought it was stupid and overly complicated in 2009. Now somebody else is making money off my idea.

The RO unit is controleld by the float switches in the 10g RO reservoir. There's 3 float switches in the RO reservoir. The top most switch is an emergency stop switch. If anything happens to the other 2 switches, and the tank fills to that highest float, it will shut off all power to the RO unit.

The sump is controlled in a simliar manner, but in reverse. The top 2 switches control the sump water depth (the topoff). As the 1st switch drops - nothing happens. the 2nd switch is about 3/4" lower. After that 2nd switch drops, it triggers the small powerhead in the 10g RO tank to come on and top up the sump. 2nd Switch comes up - nothing happens. Top switch comes up and that shuts off the small powerhead in the RO tank.

The lower switch in the sump is an emergency stop. If the RO unit were to overfill the RO tank - that top switch would kill the RO unit. I'd then have about 8g of RO to top off. That lasted about a week. For a week, I'd still have a functioning top off. After the RO tank ran dry, you would begin to see evaportation slowly lowering the level in the return section of the sump.
So if the RO tank ever went dry, then the sump level would start to go down as water evaporated. As the sump finally dropped all the way down to the lowest switch - that's an emergency shut off to protect my return pump from frying. At that point - the tank would rely on internal powerheads to continue circulation - even though the sump was basically "dead in the water" .

I have plans to use this same system again. I kept the components. I also have plans to incorporate an automatic water change system. I'll not be posting that online.

What kind of float switch is that?

 

[User]

What kind of float switch is that?

It looks like the typical plastic eBays in the ‘angled’ version

 

[User]

Not necessarily simple, but reletively cheap and DIY.

I built a DIY float switch controlled system back in 2009. It's VERY similar to the ones that you can now get from some online vendors. People thought it was stupid and overly complicated in 2009. Now somebody else is making money off my idea.

The RO unit is controleld by the float switches in the 10g RO reservoir. There's 3 float switches in the RO reservoir. The top most switch is an emergency stop switch. If anything happens to the other 2 switches, and the tank fills to that highest float, it will shut off all power to the RO unit.

The sump is controlled in a simliar manner, but in reverse. The top 2 switches control the sump water depth (the topoff). As the 1st switch drops - nothing happens. the 2nd switch is about 3/4" lower. After that 2nd switch drops, it triggers the small powerhead in the 10g RO tank to come on and top up the sump. 2nd Switch comes up - nothing happens. Top switch comes up and that shuts off the small powerhead in the RO tank.

The lower switch in the sump is an emergency stop. If the RO unit were to overfill the RO tank - that top switch would kill the RO unit. I'd then have about 8g of RO to top off. That lasted about a week. For a week, I'd still have a functioning top off. After the RO tank ran dry, you would begin to see evaportation slowly lowering the level in the return section of the sump.
So if the RO tank ever went dry, then the sump level would start to go down as water evaporated. As the sump finally dropped all the way down to the lowest switch - that's an emergency shut off to protect my return pump from frying. At that point - the tank would rely on internal powerheads to continue circulation - even though the sump was basically "dead in the water" .

I have plans to use this same system again. I kept the components. I also have plans to incorporate an automatic water change system. I'll not be posting that online.

You drilled 3 holes in a 10g?!?!??!

Braver man than I. Glass is too thin for me- I stopped after my second 10g

My ATO is a 20 long with a couple suction cup mounted floats.

 

[Rcpilot]

What kind of float switch is that?

Typical magnetic float switch. 12v DC Ebay has them cheap. Most of the parts for mine were from ebay.

 

[Daniel@R2R]

My current setup has the ATO built into the sump, but I used a small plastic trash can on my 180.

 

[Reefnman2]

My ATO bucket.

 

[Be102]

Bump!