I'm thinking less flow, hard to tell from the video.So you think more flow would make a difference? I would have thought 2400gph in a 75 would be enough. When I get the $$ I'll try another gyre.
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I'm thinking less flow, hard to tell from the video.So you think more flow would make a difference? I would have thought 2400gph in a 75 would be enough. When I get the $$ I'll try another gyre.
I spent the first few months killing birdsnest left and right. They were definitely not indestructible in my hands that’s for sure.
I can’t tell you the one single thing that might be wrong unfortunately and it may a combination of a couple of things. Things turned around for me when I started carbon dosing and using bacteria as a food source for my corals and now I can definitely keep SPS including Acropora.
It’s hard to tell from the picture but is that bleaching or is it STN? Is the coral losing tissue or color?
Are you able to keep any other corals?
I don’t see much of anything in the tank other than the gsp on the back wall and some macro.
Have you tried easier corals like soft corals or lps? Can you keep those alive?
Try the free photone app with your phone. It gives a good ballpark par figure for you at the water surface.I posted the last results of testing I did. PO4 is normal per @Randy Holmes-Farley from other threads. An alkalinity of 8.07 is too low? I wonder if part of the problem is that there are a hundred different ideas what it's supposed to be. I've always gone by Randy's threads because he seems to be fully educated in the area. That doesn't mean his numbers are right though.
I have no idea how much light is too little/much. I don't have access to a PAR meter. The LFS doesn't have one and the nearest one that might is 2+ hours away by car. BRS offers them, but I don't have the cash for the "deposit" required to get one.
If I can come up with the funds somewhere I'll get an ICP test, if I can figure out which ones give reliable data and have decent procedures. From what I've read on here there are a lot of them that may or may not be reliable.
Under full LED blues and no whites you should certainly be seeing that fluorescent color you purchased it for within the first few hours.
Odd.
I have watched a bi-color blenny eat polyps off montiporas, so I tend not to trust blennies. I believe bi-colors and lawnmowers are both combtooth so maybe he is the culprit. . . kind of a long shot but would still watch haha.I need to run them again. I usually do them on Sunday but ran out of the calcium reagent for my Hannah and am waiting for that to arrive.
I have no idea what munched this one. Previous ones have not been picked on at all, but still had the white area appear just before they died.
Current stocking is a bunch of various types of snails from a CUC package I bought. There are some hermit crabs included although I have no idea what types they are (again from the CUC package). Fish wise I have a firefish goby, lawnmower blenny, yellow sleeperhead goby, an unknown goby or blenny, and a yellow coris wrasse.
The gyre is set to directly flow onto the coral. In the past when I tried them I didn't have the gyre and had an older, much lower flow pump, with the same results.
I love the look of frogspawn. A friend had some he kept for years until it outgrew his 75. Acans and chalices are usually really expensive. If I can find some that aren't crazy I'll give them a try. I'm truly open to dang near anything at this point. I've tried to keep them for almost 30 years without success. If I had hair I'd have pulled it out by now lolA lot of lps dont have sweepers!
I have a branching frogspawn, a couple acans and chalices that do not have any.
I would definitely
I have watched a bi-color blenny eat polyps off montiporas, so I tend not to trust blennies. I believe bi-colors and lawnmowers are both combtooth so maybe he is the culprit. . . kind of a long shot but would still watch haha.
I get you on not ICP testing. . . I haven't done it either. . . that said, I do run carbon and metal removing media (the later only if something weird is going on and I want to cover my bases). I would definitely run carbon, and it wouldn't hurt to run something like cuprasorb if you truly believe everything else is on point. .
Just some initial thoughts.
I will agree with some of the other posts that your parameters aren't perfect, but I will concede that SPS corals can grow in tanks without perfect parameters.
I personally don't think birdsnests are as hardy as they get credit for haha I have killed a birdsnest sitting next to an acro that was doing fine.I spent the first few months killing birdsnest left and right. They were definitely not indestructible in my hands that’s for sure.
I can’t tell you the one single thing that might be wrong unfortunately and it may a combination of a couple of things. Things turned around for me when I started carbon dosing and using bacteria as a food source for my corals and now I can definitely keep SPS including Acropora.
It’s hard to tell from the picture but is that bleaching or is it STN? Is the coral losing tissue or color?
I personally don't think birdsnests are as hardy as they get credit for haha I have killed a birdsnest sitting next to an acro that was doing fine.
Alk is at low end of scale. I meant to say, check these again but take a water sample to a store that does NOT use Api kits and have them test your ammonia and nitrates and compare readings- then you'll know where your levels truly are atI posted the last results of testing I did. PO4 is normal per @Randy Holmes-Farley from other threads. An alkalinity of 8.07 is too low? I wonder if part of the problem is that there are a hundred different ideas what it's supposed to be. I've always gone by Randy's threads because he seems to be fully educated in the area. That doesn't mean his numbers are right though.
I have no idea how much light is too little/much. I don't have access to a PAR meter. The LFS doesn't have one and the nearest one that might is 2+ hours away by car. BRS offers them, but I don't have the cash for the "deposit" required to get one.
If I can come up with the funds somewhere I'll get an ICP test, if I can figure out which ones give reliable data and have decent procedures. From what I've read on here there are a lot of them that may or may not be reliable.
this is a little bit backwards. Soft corals are more known for chemical warfare, not LPS. Not all LPS have long sweepers either, some dont have any at all and arerent even aggressive like duncans (I love my duncans). others def can be tho like acan echinata or lobos.I have some zoanthids doing well on the bottom left hand corner. It's a very small colony and where I placed it means it may not be able to spread. I have a gorgonian on the lower right side of the tank that has spread over the rock and has grown two new upright stalks(?).
I've not tried an LPS. I've worried that in a 75 there won't be enough room for the chemical warfare that they're known for as well as distance for the streamers(?) they send out. I'd try another soft coral but the only ones I can afford are brown, and I really want to avoid a dull brown looking tank. I was hoping to do a zoa garden, but even frags of the nice looking ones are $100+ in this area, and sometimes more online. I'm open to more softies, just have to find some that don't break the bank as well as aren't brown.
Try the free photone app with your phone. It gives a good ballpark par figure for you at the water surface.
Alk is at low end of scale. I meant to say, check these again but take a water sample to a store that does NOT use Api kits and have them test your ammonia and nitrates and compare readings- then you'll know where your levels truly are at
if you are using the photone app on your phone swipe to the left/right in the middle of the square to change from PAR to DLI and backI can't seem to get the app to show par, but it shows a DLI of 12.6.
this is a little bit backwards. Soft corals are more known for chemical warfare, not LPS. Not all LPS have long sweepers either, some dont have any at all and arerent even aggressive like duncans (I love my duncans). others def can be tho like acan echinata or lobos.
But as a generality, SPS tend to be the most sensitive and hardest to keep happy (not always, but for sure most acros)
Id try and get some easier to keep corals that you like and see how they do over time before trying to jump right into the deep end so to speak.
These types of corals will also tend to be cheaper priced as well.