A Capital Dream - 400g SPS build

[rockworm]

I call this thread A Capital Dream because I live in Ottawa, Canada's capital. I have lived here for 23 years. However, I grew up on the east coast of Canada, near the ocean. I lived 45 minutes from Shediac, the lobster capital of the world. There were great beaches there, and I came to love the smell and feel of the saltwater. It did not mean anything to me until I started a saltwater aquarium.

I have a build thread on another site, but am remiss in not sharing the build with the R2R community. I appreciate input from other reefers, because I know I won't think of everything and advice from experience is always helpful. I will borrow heavily from that thread, so some may have already seen what is to come.

I started the build in May, so there is a little catchup required to bring me to today.

I have been playing with saltwater aquariums since 2006. I have had both mixed reefs and FOWLR. I currently have a 220g reef which is primarily SPS. My wife and I decided to go for a dream tank and a 400g fit the bill.

The current tank is a 220g SPS tank that has been running for two years. I will be taking this tank down after the 400g build and livestock transfer is complete.




This is an older pic but serves to illustrate what I currently have.

The tank is on the main level with the sump in the basement. The sump consists of two tanks: a 90g which is a refugium and catch for the external skimmer discharge and a 65g which houses reactors and additional bio media.

Current equipment list:

Tank: std 220g - 72" x 24"x 30"
Light: 3 250w radiums in lumnbright mini reflectors powered by coralvue dimmable ballast (150 - 250w) set to 250w hqi and 72" Reefbrite XHO Blue led
Protein skimmer: Reeflo Orca 250 pro (rated for 800g)
Return pump: Reeflo Hammerhead/Barracuda Gold Hybrid with hammerhead impeller.
PH: Maxspect Gyre 150 + Tunze 6101
Controller: Profilux 3ex
Doser: 2 x profilux 4 head (gen 1)
CA reactor: Reef Octopus SRO CR 3000
Kalk reactor: Precision Marine
Media reactors: 2 x precision marine SR45S and Two Little Fishies Media Phosban Reactor – 550

The 400g will be setup in the family room, which happens to be a converted single car garage.



The wall is 18' long between the left wall and the window on the right.

You can see some of the remnants from an earlier system: a 150w Outer Orbit pendant and a 6' MH/T5 combo.

You can also see a hole in the wall at the bottom centre. The sump sits directly below this hole to minimize distance.

 

[rockworm]

Ok. So what is this new tank of which ye speak? The tank is 96" x 36" x 27" three side starphire, with two overflows, one at each end. It will look like this:



The room is only 10 feet wide, the size of a single car garage, so I wanted the tank as close to the wall as possible. This precludes using a coast to coast with back overflow. I originally was only going to go with 30" wide, but that is only 6 inches wider than the 220g. I wanted some depth to work with, so I decided to go the full 3 feet.

I also did not want a 30" tall tank. I have that now and it is frustrating trying to work with. I am always getting the underarms soaked and then water running down inside my shirt when I stood up. Now I lose the shirt, but the water still runs. I settled on the 27" height. With a 2" sand bed, I will only have to reach 25". My sleeve length is 29", so I should be less wet with maintenance.

I want the tank to have a "built-in appearance". I plan to build cabinetry at the end which hides the overflows and returns and that has storage and bookshelves. The front 16" (oops, just noticed drawing says 15". s/b 16") will be open so that a side view is available. This will mimic the built in look.

The first order was to build the stand. This was a bit of a challenge because the stand had to be built in the room where it was to sit. This room also had two computer workstations, an entertainment centre, two upright freezers and 4 old small tanks. While my wife loves having a reef, she informed me that the freezers, entertainment unit and computers had to stay in that room. After 27 years of marriage, I know better than to argue.

My other hobby is building computers, so a little housecleaning was in order. I knocked down one of my computers then went through all my "spare parts" and got rid of most of them. I also got rid of a few tanks. I then moved everything else around and the build began.



I tend to the side of caution and overbuild. I used 2 x 6 for the upper and lower frame. All the long boards were supported with 2 x 4 standing on the upright 2 x 6 every 2 feet. The end result:



I ran into a minor problem on the centre long board. It was a crowned about an 1/8" and a level rocked in the middle 4 feet. At the same time there were some small gaps between the upright 2 x 4 that were held in place by strapping boards. These gaps mirrored the crown. This bothered me because I felt that too much stress would be put on the tank with the crown and there is no guarantee the gap would close before the tank cracked. I went out and bought an electric hand planer and planed off 1/64" until the board was straight and flat. I then filled the gaps with cedar shims to ensure the booard would not sag under the weight. I test fitted a plywood top and it was flat all across.

 

[rockworm]

The next step was to rough in the plumbing. The sump is in the basement directly behind, then below, the new tank. Each overflow in the 400g has a single 1" return and 2 x 1.5" drains. I think I have one more drain than I need, but I will make do. I am not sure that I will go with a bean or herbie drain. I may just stick with durso because the overflows will be inside a cabinet so sound will hopefully not be an issue. If it is an issue, then I will change the planned setup.

The 2 x 1.0" returns will be split off a 1.5" return line from the Hammerhead pump. These lines will be plumbed over the tank (i.e. run the back wall rather than through the walls from the overflow).

The 4 drains will be plumbed as follows:
1 - Emergency.
1 - Straight to external skimmer. The skimmer input is tee'd so that excess flow, that the skimmer cannot handle, will drop into sump.
2 - Will be merged into a 2" drain that will run to the sump.

I hope to have some pictures of the sump up tomorrow so this will make a little more sense.

I had to drill additional holes through the wall and ended up with the following layout:



From left to right: drain to skimmer, 1.5" return, 2" drain (for 2 into 1) and emergency drain.n That little electric box you see is dead. I had an electrician in a few years ago to disconnect all the floor plugs (was ok for code when house was built in 1978).

A little aside: the floor is laminate floor. I installed it after we moved into the house, before we had clik lock or other snap in place flooring. The laminate is all glued and practically waterproof. I decided that I would leave it rather than replacing with new flooring.

Now that the plumbing is roughed in, I can finish the stand structure.



I glued and screwed the back panel leaving a 3" gap at the bottom so that the plumbing could fit through. The panel is also raised 3" above the back of the stand to help ensure a proper alignment of the tank at the back.

The floor was fitted and inserted and the top plywood was laid. The plywood is 5/8" and is flat. I am glad I have a 6 ft level. It helps with determining flatness.

 

[rockworm]

It is time to venture into my mad science realm in the basement. Otherwise known as the swamp because I have flooded itmore times than I care to admit.

First, in my own defense, I had to move wiring and dosing lines in order to rough plumb for the new tank. My semi-elegant solution was to disconnect them, pull them out of their position and reconnect them where they landed. The plumbing runs between floor joists, where most of the lines were kept, and I did not want to disconnect them by mistake.

This is what the swamp looks like:



Starting from the left, a heavy duty resin shelf unit holds (top to bottom) the Profilux 3.1EX, vinegar, 4 pump doser, kalk stirrer, calcium reactor, and unseen at the bottom, a 10lb CO2 bottle with Milwaukee regulator.

Straight ahead is the 90g refugium. (this was my first reef tank back in 2005). It is lit by an old 150w hqi fixture. Someday I will change it for an led grow light.

To the left of the tank is the skimmer.



The skimmer is gravity fed from the tank. A ball valve is used at the skimmer intake to regulate the water flow. It can then be fine tuned using the riser pipe on the right. A tee carries any diverted water to the 90g



Back to the first picture, to the right of the 90g is a 65g that houses reactors. I have a GFO reactor and 2 PM reactors that house Seachem Matrix bio media. There is 4 litres of matrix and there is also an 8x8x4 Marinepure block.

The two tanks are joined together by a 1.5" pipe and ball valve.

Finally, you can see forward of the 65g is the face of the hammerhead.



The first branch to the left leads to a manifold for the reactors and one additional outlet, because you can never have too many free outlets. The second branch currently leads to ther 220g which is located on the opposite side of the house. This will become another spare outlet when I shut down the 220. Finally, the return goes up into the family room where the 400g will sit.

 

[rockworm]

I had a little side project to undertake. As I mentioned before, the 220g is coming down after I set up the new tank. This will leave the living room barren of any fish. Well, this just cannot be. I just so happened to have a 75g reef ready tank and cabinet lying around. (No obsession here

). I few years back I got a great deal on a tank that someone had knocked down. I bought it, sold off some equipment and kept the tank and stand.



I set up the tank up and connected it to the current system. It has a single drain and single return. I used flex pipe for this one because the existing bulkheads were the pronged type. I also just used the existing durso. You can see the lines inside the cabinet.



Note the black poly pipe on the left. This pipe runs from the outside left of the tank straight to the laundry sink. I can use this if I need to bypass the sump and dump water. I used this with my QT and will use it with the 400g.



I just put an MJ in the tank, connect the clear hose and run it straight into the laundry sink.

Now I can still have a couple fishies and corals in the living room.

 

[rockworm]

I am fortunate in that I do not have to upgrade a lot of my equipment. However, lighting is undertaking a big change.

I use Lumenbright mini reflectors for the 250M lights that hang over the 220g. I like these reflectors but they are only 16" wide. They will definitely not work over a 36" wide tank. I decided to stick with MH and Lumenbright so I ordered the LB large reflectors. One noticeable issue I find with the LB's is shadowing. These reflectors direct the light into a narrower band than other reflectors. So I will be supplementing with T5HOs and Reefbrite XHO blues. I have used a 6' XHO over the 220g and really like the t the colour of the corals.

The new setup will include:
4 x 250w Radiums in LB large reflectors (using electronic ballasts),
8 x 54w (48") T5HO using LET retrofit pkg
2 x 48" Reefbrite XHO
1 x 72" Reefbrite XHO

I will use the 72" Reefbrite at the back of the tank in case it does not provide full 8' width coverage. It will not be that noticable.

I will build a light rack to mount the lights and ballasts. I also want to be able to access the lights easily. The light rack will be suspended from the ceiling where you see the 72" fixture in the picture:



I want these lights accessible for easy maintenance and change. I do not like the idea of having to stretch across the tank to replace a T5 bulb. I will accomplish this by suspending the light rack from two barn door hardware kits mounted parallel to each other and perpendicular to the wall. I will be able to then just slide the lights forward of the tank for maintenance.

 

[rockworm]

The light rack is built in three components. The centre component holds the four Lumenbright reflectors. The other two components will have 2 rows of T5HO and one row of Reefbrite Blue LED's. The Lumenbrights need to be mounted with the bulb about 16" from the water. The bottom of the reflector will therefore hang 12" above the water line. I want the T5's and LED to sit closer to the water, leading me to build the rack in three parts.

I tackled the Lumenbright's first. I happened to have 36" wide heavy paper that is used under hardwood flooring. I laid an 8' length on of the stand top and used this to draw out and configure measurements.

That is an 8' x 1" square aluminum tube running up the centre.

I used 1" aluminum tube to make a rectangular frame with outside dimensions of 96" x 22". The Lumenbright reflectors are 20" wide (really about 19.75") and will fit within the 20" width (22" less the width of the tube times 2). I am not a welder so I used L shaped reinforcement brackets and self tapping metal screws to secure them in place.

The next step was to quadrant off 24" segments along the full length. I did this on the paper so I could make changes, if necessary, before I screwed the whole thing together (or before I screwed the measurements up). I ended up with the following:

I used 1.5" slotted angle iron to provide a platform on which each pendant will rest. At this point, the width still presented a problem. Each quadrant was 23" wide. The two angle irons that hold each side totaled 3" width. That would still leave me with a 20" wide gap to hold a pendant that is 19.75". Basically, after all the math I set the angle iron so that each side of the pendant would rest on a 1/4" lip. I then placed metal screws in the slots to prevent the pendant from sliding around. This is a close up showing how the screws act as a reference:

All 4 pendants sit snugly in place and the first stage is complete:

 

[rockworm]

I previously mentioned that I wanted the lights to be accessible. The easiest way for me to do this was mount them from the ceiling on sliding door hardware. The plan was to mount the kits parallel to each other and hang the light rack from them.

System accomplished

This was a challenge. It is important that both rails be square to the wall and equidistant between each other at all points on the length, otherwise the rack would snag up and not travel the full length.

I spent a lot of time measuring and remeasuring before everything was snugged down.

The rails are supported on a 1.5" thick board. I could not get a 2 x 6 that was not twisted. I used poplar hardwood and pine. The poplar 1" would probably have worked by itself, but I added a little extra for greater strength. The wood that is forefront in the picture is securely attached to the false header that you see. The wood in the background had top be set into the ceiling drywall had to be anchored. I was concerned about the weight pulling on the anchors, so I used 5 that are rated for 200 lbs each. That ought to hold for a while. I should note that the each barn door hardware kit is rated for 250 lbs.

Everything is level, square and plumb. The track rolls very smooth.

 

[rockworm]

Time to look at the light rack. Here is the full foundation of the light rack (ignore the diagonal perforated metal at the far right that parallels the t5 end caps. It got in the picture because I did not notice it.). I will incorporate a wood frame around the light rack after the tank is on the stand.

As discussed previously, the rack is mounted to the barn door sliders and pulls out fully from over the tank.

The light rack is made up of two elements. First is a rectangular frame that suspends from the rails. Slotted angle iron is used. Second is a floating rack (not secured) that sits inside the rectangular frame. I will be installing a couple pulleys that will allow me to lift the front face of the rack upward to provide access to the tank. The back face of the frame will act as a fulcrum to allow the front to lift.

I said previously that there will be supplemental lighting. I mounted four of the four foot T5 retros on each side with the Reefbrite LED's in between the two rows. All of these units are fairly light, so I screwed them to 1" pine strips/ The T5 ballasts were mounted on the back side of the pine.

It is the T5's that sit on the strips. The LED's are set in between the strips to provide for the passive cooling they use. I just added a simple cross support that they screw into.

You can see that the lights are angled into the tank. I just used two different length corner braces to attach them to the aluminum cross members.

The short brace is on the inside and keeps the side closer to the MH's. The longer brace is used to drop the outside. this should help reduce the shadowing that the Lumenbrights create.

Here you can see the effect of this design.

The wiring for the T5's and LED's will exit at the left of the tank and will be set up on Profilux timers.

And that is the light rack.

 

[rockworm]

Here is some of the new equipment that I bought.

I received 2 Mitras LX 6200 LED's that I will be using over the 75g. I was one of the people that jumped into the LED arena when the PFO Solaris was introduced.

I have been reluctant to use LEDs because MH with T5 provides proven light for SPS. Hence the reason I am going with this combination over the 400g. I decided to experiment with LEDs again and bought the GHL Mitras. Yes, I could have gone with cheaper lights, but I am a fan of Profilux and have had it since 2009.

I also bought the PLM-PWC, the Mitras wireless addition for Profilux so that I can control the lights through the controller.

Each morning I go to the basement to take a quick look at the controller display to check the sensor readings. I could fire up the laptop, but it takes too long to fire up. (Cheap, actually very cheap laptop). Now, I will admit that if I can find an easier softer way, I will. So Santa delivered a Profilux Touch. The Touch can be setup remotely and has the ability to display all the information I need, without having to take that strenuous stair exercise each morning. Awesome technology. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/images/smilies/ROFL.gif

The new Profilux equipment will be used on the 75g.

For the 400g, I received a Gyre 150. This will give me two 150's (one in 220g now) plus two Tunze 6101's (in 220g) for water movement. I also bought 4 1.5" bulkheads (I forgot to get the 1" I need, doh, so I will pick them up locally), 20 feet of 1/2" acrylic rod for scaping, Luxcore ballast (150w-250w), Radium 250w bulb and two 72" x 36" mesh screen for the tank cover.

 

[rockworm]

Here is the light rack pulley system.

It is a simple 2 pulley mechanic that makes lifting the light rack easier for me.

In the lifted state.

I now have some headroom for maintenance.

The core of the light rack is done and I am happy with it. It rolls forward and can be lifted making maintenance work much easier. I intend to create a finished wood frame so it looks more like furniture than a metal monster.

 

[rockworm]

One question that came up was how do you get a 36" wide tank through a 30" door. You don't. So you make a new door.

I removed the window and studs opening up a means to get the tank in. From the outside

The opening will be from the ground to the top of the window. I cut through the nails on the top and two sides. The small 2 x 4's kept the window from tipping forward or backward. There was a little stud work to make a plumb side for the doors. I will get a new window later.

I discussed the plan with the mover and the plan was to run the ramp from the truck right into the room. The width and height will allow this without having to make a larger opening.

 

[rockworm]

I was a little concerned about the heat and humidity in the room. I found a 150 CFM 0.3 sones exhaust at Lowes. I hooked it up over tank stand.

I wanted to put it in the ceiling so just the face would show. However, there is a bedroom directly above the tank location. It was too much work to install it and vent within the joists, so I settled on surface mounting it. I vented directly outside with insulated flex pipe. You can see that the unit and the pipe clears the light rack. I wired a 50 ft 16 gauge exterior extension cord because it will be controlled by the Profilux to turn on when the lights turn on. This thing is dead silent.

 

[rockworm]

I received the tank in early June. The movers were able to get it into the house through the "barn doors", but did not have the right equipment to lift the tank on the stand. I called a number of different movers, starting with piano movers, and explained that I had a heavy aquarium to lift on to a stand. Most declined, primarily because they did not have insurance to cover glass (The movers are insured only for glass they damage as a result of the move but are not insured to move glass.). A couple offered to try but could not insure the tank if anything happened. I declined their offer because I wanted the movers to be insured. Two movers said they would come and take a look. At the end of the day, I could not hire any movers. This left me on my own to figure out how to get the tank on the stand.

I had a eureka moment one weekend. I had been trying to figure out how I could get the tank on the stand and realized that maybe I should figure out how to get the stand under the tank. The former method would mean lifting the tank and sliding it onto the stand. This would be difficult because of the light rank and somewhat limited space to work with. I would still need a few strong people to manually hold and slide the tank over. The latter method (stand under tank) would only require me to lift the tank and slide the stand under it. Later I could figure a way to just slide the tank and stand into position.

I spent a week building a hoist frame. The hoist frame was built around the tank and I would use two chain hoists to lift the tank. I used two because of the 8 ft tank length and safety was first and foremost the most important thing.

Behold, the hoist frame.

I am not an engineer, nor a physicist. But I do love solving problems and I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express one day. I also watch those home improvement shows so had a basic understanding of weight transfer.

I started by laminating three 2" x 6" to form the posts for each corner. I then made a header using three 2" x 10" framing lumber for each end of the hoist frame. The bottom of each post was joined using a single 2" x 4". It's role was to help in squaring the end and keep the bottom of the posts from spreading apart, or together. The ends and the 2" x 4" were joined together to build the box around the tank.

I did not want this box to fall, tilt, slide or anything else. I used the walls of the room to "brace" the box.

This was done on 4 sides before the next step, which was to create 2 beams that would support the hoists.

I again laminated three 2" x 10" to create each beam. You can see the end of the beams in the picture.

After the beams were in place, I added diagonal braces and corner braces all round the box frame. This was done to ensure that the whole hoist frame was rigid and would not move under the weight of the tank when it is lifted. I was concerned that if the frame moved in any direction, the inertia of any tank movement would bring the whole frame down.

I hung the hoists using 3/4" steel rods.

I used short lengths of 2" x "4 on each beam to sandwich the rod so it would not roll. I used 1 ton hoists even though I could probably have used 1/2 ton. I was not taking any chances, so went a little overboard. It only cost $10 more for the one ton and I felt that it was cheap insurance.

Here is a better view of how the hoist sits on the beams.

I was almost ready to do the lift. There was one last thing to do and that was cut 2 lengths of 2" x 6" slighter longer than the tank is wide to act as pressure points where the lift straps meet the top of the tank. A eurobrace is great at prevent a tank from bowing out but I am not sure of its strength if the tank was squeezed at the top. The tank is exactly 36" wide, so I cut them to 36 3/8" long.

It is not easy to see, but as the tank is lifted, the straps will tighten at the top and they will try to squeeze the top most point on each side. The wood now replaces the top of the tank and any squeezing takes place on the wood. The bottom of the tank does not need pressure point replacements because A) the bottom is a solid pane of glass and B) the tank is glued on top of a 1/4" piece of plywood.

I was now ready. I called on two neighbours, who have asked a few times if they could help, and three of us did the lift. The tank was raised 2 inches above the height of the stand, the stand slid under the tank and the tank dropped onto the stand. It took one hour because there was a lot of finagling to get the straps under the tank then out from under the tank after the stand was in place.

The sense of relief and accomplishment is almost indescribable. This was, and I expect will be, the most demanding and complicated process of the build.

The next step of the build was to fix some of the plumbing rough in that I had to take apart in order to move the stand. The tank sits about 3/4" over one end of the stand so this would have to be fixed. I have a ratchet "pull along" that used to slide the tank over. I would then use it to move the tank and stand back into place.

Unfortunately, my beautiful hoist frame was dismantled. One neighbour took 2" x 6" and another took the 2" x 10" for a deck he was bulding.

 

[rockworm]

Here is the tank in place against the wall and being filled for a leak test.

I used a pull along and a heavy duty ratchet to pull the tank into place. After that was completed, I removed all the wall braces on the hoist frame and moved the frame over to give me better access to the stand for shimming. You can see the shims under the base of the stand.

I filled the tank with water from the garden hose, which happens to be just outside the door of the tank room. If only RODI would fill the tank as quickly.

It only took an hour to fill one inch below the overflow teeth.

This is filled with tap water.:

There are no leaks but I plan to leave it for 24 hours. While this is not an exhaustive leak test, it will ensure that there are no immediate leaks and will allow it to settle. I will adjust the shims accordingly. If there are no leaks after this time, I will dismantle the hoist frame, clean up the room and then begin the tank plumbing.

I have 320+ pounds of sand and ordered 250lbs of dry tonga shelf rock.

Cheers,
Ward

 

[rockworm]

I had my first official flood in the middle of June.

I put the sand in the tank, about 350 lbs of it and rinsed it using tap water through the garden hose. I went outside for something and, of course, the garden hose decided to pop out of the tank. My wife got to it in about 10 seconds. Ya know, a lot of water can come out of a garden hose in a few seconds.

I did some more rinsing today, without the flood.

 

[rockworm]

I was originally going to run the return over the top. However, I changed my mind on that because I will be putting a screen top on the tank to discourage my jumpers (wrasses). I did not want to shape the screen around returns. I created two return manifolds, one for each end.

I had to remove 3 teeth from the overflow weir in order to run the pipe through to the inside of the tank. I tried to attach the pipe to the underside of the eurobrace using polyurethane glue. Unfortunately it did not work. I used two pieces of black abs to wedge the return manifold to the glass.

You can see the two pipes, one in the foreground and one a third from the left. I drilled a bunch of holes in each of the support pipes to prevent water from stagnating in there. The pretty little gray elbow will be replaced with a lockline as soon as I get the FTP union. (I was short one)

Then it was time to level out the sand. I had just dumped it in and rinsed it, so there were hills and valleys everywhere. I used a basic tool for this:

A good old fashioned garden rake. It made quick work of the leveling.

 

[rockworm]

I installed the Lumentek ballast and radium bulb in the light rack. I put a mounting plate beside each side of the tank.

I left room for a second ballast to the left of the Lumentek. I will mount two on each side of the tank. The black box is the Reefbrite ballast. I ran the ballast wires up the wall and attached them to the rail support.

It is a little messy right now and will be cleaned up to fit inside a cabinet that I will build later.

I had to ensure that there would be no problems with wires snagging or dropping in to the water as a result of sliding the light rack out and in.

There is still some slack in the wire when the rack is fully extended out from the wall. There will be no tension on the wire.

Here you see the maximum drop opf the wire when the rack is returned to its over tank position.

I am satisfied that there is no binding or excess sagging.

 

[rockworm]

I started the tank fill on a Saturday at 4:00 pm. Here is what it looked like 45 hrs later. It took 73 hours to fill the tank to the overflow teeth. I did not go over the overflow, because I want to bring it slowly on line with my existing system. I believe there would be too much of a shock to the existing tanks if I just opened it to the existing system.

I was unconventional and added the salt to the tank for mixing while the sand was in there. I did not feel like taking out 350 lbs of sand that has been rinsed, only to add it back later.

I finally made a decision on the T5 selection. I am going with ATI coral+ and ATI Purple+ to supplement the MH. This combination, with the blue LED's, should give me a pretty good colour. I wanted the coral+ to help reduce the shadowing caused by the narrow spread of the Lumenbright reflectors.
If all goes as planned, the livestock will be in their new home by the end of July.

 

[rockworm]

I had an electrician in at the end of June to add three 20 amp circuits. One is located beside the tank and the other two are located in the sump room. This is an important addition because I have a limited number of circuits in the house. With the current 220g, I have had to juggle power lines to try to evenly distribute the power use across various house circuits. Just when I think I have everything solved, I would start up the vacuum or a power tool and a breaker would pop. No more.

I reorganized my profilux powerbars and have connected all the reef equipment to the new circuits. I have one switchable socket left on the powerbar. I guess I will have to scour the mail order places to see what else I can add. I hate to waste a socket. lol