Alkalinity stability? pH stability? Are they even different?

Randy Holmes-Farley

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It is currently the dogma of the reef aquarium hobby to say that alkalinity stability is very important for SPS corals, and that pH is not. Often, the very idea of someone trying to optimize pH is called “chasing numbers” as if that statement by itself shows it to be foolish.

Since I have never seen anyone in the hobby actually provide experimental data on the sorts of pH and alkalinity issues that I am about to discuss, let’s back up and think through what these issues really mean and what they may imply for reefing.

Before going any further, let me pose a thought question:

Which of the scenarios below is more “stable” in the sense of the concentration of bicarbonate in the water through the course of a day in a reef aquarium?

A. Alkalinity held at 8.00 dKH, pH varies from 7.9 to 8.3

B. Alkalinity varies from 7.5 to 8.4 dKH, pH fixed at 8.2


As you might have guessed, if not actually calculated, those have identical variation in bicarbonate over the time period of interest.

Let’s start this discussion with some background on total alkalinity, and why we use such a weird, theoretical measurement. It is certainly not because it is the exact thing corals “care” about. Total alkalinity is the sum of a bunch of different things in the water, some of which are counted once (bicarbonate, silicate, hydrogen phosphate, borate, magnesium monohydroxide, hydroxide), some twice (phosphate and carbonate) and one (hydrogen ion) is subtracted back out to get the final answer. Certainly, it is mostly bicarbonate, and it is far easier to measure than is bicarbonate alone. So if we care about bicarbonate and cannot readily measure it, total alkalinity is a fall back measurement that may have value.

In fact, the reason we measure total alkalinity is because corals use bicarbonate (at least that is the current consensus in the scientific community) to gain the carbonate they need for formation of calcium carbonate skeletons (and potentially for the CO2 they need for photosynthesis as well). Let me just back up that assertion with a recent reference to justify the importance of bicarbonate. Using “current” references is important, as this very complex field has evolved a lot in the past 20 years (and still has a lot to learn).

Figure 1 in this paper from 2019 shows bicarbonate as the ion taken up from the bulk water:

Electrophysiological evidence for light-activated cation transport in calcifying corals https://royalsocietypublishing.org/doi/full/10.1098/rspb.2018.2444

However, the point I’m going to make about stability isn’t changed by whether corals take up bicarbonate or carbonate (or even CO2) as their source of dissolved inorganic carbon for photosynthesis.


The point that I will make is that NONE of these (bicarbonate, carbonate, or CO2) are kept stable with stable “total alkalinity”, if one ignores pH. If none of these are stable, how could stability of total alkalinity be important? Or, thought of a little differently, maybe it is only part of a larger “stability” issue that reefers have yet to really understand.

Let’s now delve into what it means for total alkalinity to be stable. What, if anything, is really stable about water with stable alkalinity if the pH is allowed to vary?

The table below shows the amount of bicarbonate and carbonate present as a function of pH, where the total alkalinity is held constant at 8 dKH (for ease of calculation, I’m ignoring all the other minor contributors to total alkalinity). I know my scientist friends will laugh at using dKH as a unit of measure of bicarbonate or carbonate, but I think it makes it easier for ordinary reefers to not get distracted by conversion into other units, such as meq/L.

Table 1. Bicarbonate and Carbonate as a function of pH in seawater with total alkalinity of 8 dKH. Bicarbonate delta is the percentage difference in bicarbonate for each 0.1 pH unit change.

pHHCO3- (dKH)CO3— (dKH)Bicarbonate Delta
7.60​
7.54​
0.28​
7.65​
7.52​
0.31​
1.80​
7.70​
7.49​
0.35​
2.00​
7.75​
7.46​
0.39​
2.22​
7.80​
7.42​
0.44​
2.47​
7.85​
7.37​
0.49​
2.74​
7.90​
7.31​
0.54​
3.03​
7.95​
7.25​
0.61​
3.36​
8.00​
7.18​
0.67​
3.71​
8.05​
7.10​
0.75​
4.09​
8.10​
7.01​
0.83​
4.50​
8.15​
6.92​
0.92​
4.95​
8.20​
6.81​
1.01​
5.42​
8.25​
6.70​
1.12​
5.93​
8.30​
6.57​
1.23​
6.47​
8.35​
6.44​
1.35​
7.05​
8.40​
6.29​
1.48​
7.66​
8.45​
6.13​
1.62​
8.29​
8.50​
5.97​
1.77​
8.95​
8.55​
5.79​
1.93​
9.64​
8.60​
5.60​
2.09​
10.34​

The last column of Table 1 is a value I am calling bicarbonate delta. It is the percent change in bicarbonate for a 0.1 pH unit change in the pH. The way to interpret it is as follows. If you have a tank with an average pH of 8.15 with a daily pH swing of 0.1 pH unit, the bicarbonate concentration is swinging by 5% daily even if you hold alkalinity steady at exactly 8.00 dKH. Obviously, if the pH swing is zero (which is quite unusual), the bicarbonate will be fixed at 6.92 “dKH”. On the other hand, some hobbyists have much higher pH changes day to night (or during the day from morning to evening) and might see a change of 0.3 or 0.4 pH units and might see a change in bicarbonate of 13% over that time, even with alkalinity constant.

Now we can answer the question I posed above:

Which of the scenarios below is more “stable” in the sense of the concentration of bicarbonate in the water through the course of a day in a reef aquarium?

A. Alkalinity held at 8.00 dKH, pH varies from 7.9 to 8.3

B. Alkalinity varies from 7.5 to 8.4 dKH, pH fixed at 8.2

Each, it turns out, has about a 0.9 “dKH” change in the bicarbonate concentration over time, or about 10%. Curiously, the carbonate concentration changes far more (on a percentage basis) in scenario A ( 128%) than in scenario B (10%). Finally, if you think CO2 is important, it is changing a lot in scenario A (more than 100%) and only changing about 10% in scenario B.

I won’t try to claim what is and isn’t optimum for growing corals, or even how to define a test that evaluates it.

But I will suggest that there is more to a coral's environmental stability than total alkalinity, even assuming that total alkalinity is a big part of it.

Perhaps folks with an experimental bent might consider “chasing pH” or “chasing stable pH” while also maintaining stable alkalinity to see if it has benefits.

For folks who are interested in details of these sorts of calculations, they can be found in calculations for Bjerrum plots of carbonate in seawater, which is easy to find online and not that hard to put into excel.
 
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Cory

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Great info! Yet another mystery. Maybe its biologically available bicarbonate? Is that even possible? Clean bicarbonate? Dirty bicarbonate? Lol free bump.
 

Aqua Man

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@Lasse is the only one I’ve read about so far that tracks PH.
I do hear a lot of people say that PH is just a number and not worry unless it’s real out of line.
Water, being fresh or salt has always been interesting to me. Always like to learn more about it!
 

Lasse

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Let us say that I construct a system that give a stable pH around 8.2 . Aeration with CO2 free air if pH drop below 8.2 and adding CO2 if pH rise over pH 8.2 Would it be optimal? I ask because in a test setup (short time 6 weeks) we saw a better growth in constant pH around 8.1 or 8.2 compared with sample with constant pH below 8.0 and over 8.2. I have always explained this with a thought that these result is due to "sweet spot" there the energy savings of of using CO2 instead of HCO3/CO3 for photosynthesis (and therefore more energy for calcification) and lower pH´s negative effect on calcification evens out. But maybe a stable content of HCO3 can be another explanation ?

Sincerely Lasse
 

Useful_Idiot

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Very interesting. I have 2 identical skimmers in my sump. One is piped with outside air and recently when it got blocked average PH went down. I've attached a screenshot showing days before and after I cleared the line. As well as my 150 gallon tank. I'll setup my Apex to control the skimmer based off PH. Bringing the skimmer on at 8.00 and off at 8.05. Would this be the right way to experiment? Steady lower PH would be better than maxing out at all times?
Screenshot_20200421-143829.png
IMG_20200416_215149.jpg
 

elysics

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Oh dang didnt see this when i posted my thread, its exactly what i was asking about. Is there an easy way to calculate the sweet spot in regards to for example countering the ph drop at night with sodium hydroxide respective to the dKH swing that creates with the goal of keeping carbonate concentration swings minimal?
 

Dorsetsteve

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Surely best practice would be to aim for stability within a near natural range, with both TA and PH and ensure that the PH is not being suppressed by excess Co2 in the atmosphere.
Interesting topic.
 

blstravler

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I recently took PH for granted - my DKH was pinned at 8.5 (run a calcium reactor) and PH was consistently 8 - 8.2 (night/day) then some of my SPS didn’t look great. I struggled to figure it out - water change, too much flow? - tested everything twice. Then my wife said to me - ‘how do you know the PH is right?’ My answer - because my Apex says so! Then I calibrated my probe and she was right. My actual range was 7.6 - 7.9. I’ve been slowly adjusting my PH up and I’m at 7.9 - 8.1 and things are getting better - so yeah I took PH for granted - never mind my maintenance failure.
 

Afterburner

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I used to measure my PH along with Alk, PO4, NO3, Salinity daily and Calc, Mg weekly. My PH was always in a decent range, and when it was a little low I always figured it was the tester loosing calibration. Since I don't have a fancy APEX or Seneye, I never knew what it was at night or swing during the day. When I was testing it, the value was around 7.9 or 8.0, but I made a CO2 scrubber and it sat around 8.3. When my PH meter got out of Calibration, I just couldn't justify the cost of Hanna calibration fluids and never checked it again. The main reason is because I have no idea what to do if it does swing during the day / night, or what to do if it gets high or low. I see the guy with the APEX print out here and wonder what he does with that data other than fix the blockage in air line to the skimmer. I really mean it, can someone tell me what they would do to make his system PH perfectly flat. I used to have an off cycle refugium, but it became a PITA so I switched to a Santa Monica DROP algae scrubber that I run at night. I also turn off my skimmer during the day because I dose Phyto, but that may help keep PH stable also since it runs at night oxygenating the water. This thread was good for me because it reminds me to change the media in my CO2 scrubber that I forgot about.
Bottom line, I have not tested PH in months, and my SPS dominate tank could care a less. I am pretty diligent about testing ALK and PO4 because that is the only thing that seems to swing much. I am using ESV B-ionic, so ALK hardly moves at all unless my doser has an issue.
 

Afterburner

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I recently took PH for granted - my DKH was pinned at 8.5 (run a calcium reactor) and PH was consistently 8 - 8.2 (night/day) then some of my SPS didn’t look great. I struggled to figure it out - water change, too much flow? - tested everything twice. Then my wife said to me - ‘how do you know the PH is right?’ My answer - because my Apex says so! Then I calibrated my probe and she was right. My actual range was 7.6 - 7.9. I’ve been slowly adjusting my PH up and I’m at 7.9 - 8.1 and things are getting better - so yeah I took PH for granted - never mind my maintenance failure.
What did you do to adjust the PH up?
 

drawman

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Cool writeup! For most chasing both can sometimes make our heads spin so chasing alk alone gets to be easier in practice.
 

blstravler

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What did you do to adjust the PH up?

I was already pulling in outside Air into my skimmer so I put a little Kalkwasser in my top off reservoir. 4 teaspoons to 50 gallons. I may add a little more to get it up slightly more or I will up my tank temp slightly to have more evaporation.
 

Wtyson254

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This is something that I am very interested in as my apartment CO2 concentration hovers around 1200ppm and I have had issues with PH swings. I target my alk to 8.
 

Afterburner

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I never thought about the Kalkwasser idea, but it makes sense if it works and doesn't throw something else off. Will you have to do this forever, or will it eventually get back in check on it's own?
 

blstravler

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I never thought about the Kalkwasser idea, but it makes sense if it works and doesn't throw something else off. Will you have to do this forever, or will it eventually get back in check on it's own?
Forever. I did this in my last tank and never had any issues so kinda par for the course I guess. I’m sure there may be other ways but this is easy and it was very dependable in my last tank.
 

blstravler

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@Randy Holmes-Farley do you think that we should be paying more attention to the environmental carbon dioxide levels our tanks are exposed to? I recently bought at CO2 meter and was surprised by how high my Indoor CO2 is.

When we built our home we had the entire thing spray foamed and sealed up very well. We started to get a very stale smell in our home. Ultimately we added an air exchanger. Houses are so well sealed up CO2 issues will increase for our tanks. Never mind the stale house smell lol.
 

Dr. Dendrostein

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Thank you for sharing

about 3 weeks ago , I noticed my sun cup corals not opening up like they used to, closed up all day and so I checked my water parameters and found my pH was low and alkalinity was low, the tank was 8 months old and I rarely did water changes, and thought maybe adding a handful of salt every other day or every 3 days, was sufficient, come to find out it wasn't. I was dragging my feet to set up my automatic water changer and more testing, get an idea what the perimeters were. I add the water changer and pH came up and alkalinity came up the corals are all happy now , I add a little bake baking soda , through the day. now it's happy days to stay. My tank from 0 to 10 is that a 9. Which is challenging for the corals I keep. So, moral of the story, one needs to be more disciplined ,when it comes to taking care of our children of the sea

Screenshot_2020-04-17-15-48-01-1.png
 
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