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I wonder if you either have 'dirty' electricity (brown-outs, surges/spikes, additional electrical devices causing noise) and need an electrical conditioner to clean & smooth the power input or they are not cycling enough (too much time between activation)?Careful with the Via Aqua glass heaters, bought one last Feb, died 3 weeks ago. After not running all summer, by the way. So yes, go with a controller, I have finally, seems my track record with glass heaters ain't been to hot lately (pun intended, LOL! ). I've had 3 different brands die suddenly in the last 3 years, with none of them over 3 years old and one brand new. So after replacing the Via Aqua with a Marineland Precision I also got a Finnex Digital heater control + memory, working well so far. Other heater in the sump is a Cobalt Aquatics.
Quite agree. Had to replace the sensor on my controller last week. Called and left a message at 8AM. At 11AM I emailed them, said I had been waiting 3 hours for a return call. Over a week has gone by. I have received no reply to call or email. Screw them! I will purchase a different brand!Ranco sucks. Crappy customer service. And the owner is a *****. A major design flaw is that if power goes out, it goes back to C1...cooling mode, which will stop your heater from working.
I use 3 100 heaters, that way if one fails you have 2 for backup. Get smaller Ehiems.i wanted a ehiem jager. but i need a 250 watt and they are just way to long for my sump unfortunately and does not fit. Any suggestions i need to pick a different heater.
Correction the accuracy range is +/- 4 degrees F. 8 degree spread. Sorry about that.I have an Aqueon Pro 100 and an Eheim Jager 75W TruTemp...
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- The Eheim Jager was 3F hotter than indicated! Luckily the red indicator of the temperature setting is adjustable (hmm?) so I was able to correct/calibrate it. Given what's on the box, the accuracy is +/- 8 degree F! Yeesh