CRYING, VELVET, HELP

Jay Hemdal

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@Jay Hemdal

I was wondering your thoughts on how I QT lately. I have not been able to get copper products or prazi in Canada. I do still QT all my fish for a minimum of 30 days however there is nothing in the water.

My question would be would velvet or ich be dormant during this time and possibly still be introduced to my display . Or would 30 days be enough that it would show up on the fish if it was present?

I am not currently QTing any fish and all the fish in my display are healthy and doing well for months :) so I am to assume there is no ich or velvet in my display currently .

I am wanting to purchase a purple tang and Lineatus wrasse in 3-4 months at probably a combined cost of around $700 so I want to make sure my current plan of just a 30 day QT no treatment is good enough ?

I did this method for my last two additions Adorned Wrasse and Common Clownfish . Did I just get lucky ? Or is 30 days and just observation good enough to see if they have ich or velvet .

I would dose copper and prazi if I could get it in Canada. kinda frustrating .......

Thanks !
Without copper and prazi, you could still use hyposalinity. That will at least take care of ich and most flukes. It won’t help with velvet or Uronema though.
Observational quarantine is too risky IMO, I never use it.
Jay
 
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RELLIK-REEF

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Everyone came out to eat so that's a good sign. Still breathing fast but still swimming and not really flashing in this tank. Also eyes are not near as cloudy.
 

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zheka757

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Best of luck to you! what ever outcome will be, this is going to be a forever to remember lesson in this hobby for you, Again, Best of luck,
 
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RELLIK-REEF

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Best of luck to you! what ever outcome will be, this is going to be a forever to remember lesson in this hobby for you, Again, Best of luck,
Thanks.
But I'm not sure what lesson I'm supposed to get out of this besides learning medical applications for fish. I've been doing this for a long time, well it seems like a long time.
I've been through a total reef crash in a 180 gallon due to an electrical issue while we were on vacation and the people watching it had no idea what to do.
We've had fish that seem fine and then one day they are just dead, same with corals.
I've never did a qt because I try to plan it out and get the fish we want for the dt and add them all at the same time. All fish are added before corals so that if there is an issue I can treat in the dt. Only thing I did different this time was add corals while still on their plugs usually I take them off then dip.

- With typing all this I actually did add one more thing, a used DOS @Jay Hemdal
I set this up for automatic water changes. Now I added the John Guest fittings and new tubing but even though I flushed the lines during tuning could this disease have been in the pump lining itself? Just wondering since it's the latest thing I've done.
 

Jay Hemdal

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Thanks.
But I'm not sure what lesson I'm supposed to get out of this besides learning medical applications for fish. I've been doing this for a long time, well it seems like a long time.
I've been through a total reef crash in a 180 gallon due to an electrical issue while we were on vacation and the people watching it had no idea what to do.
We've had fish that seem fine and then one day they are just dead, same with corals.
I've never did a qt because I try to plan it out and get the fish we want for the dt and add them all at the same time. All fish are added before corals so that if there is an issue I can treat in the dt. Only thing I did different this time was add corals while still on their plugs usually I take them off then dip.

- With typing all this I actually did add one more thing, a used DOS @Jay Hemdal
I set this up for automatic water changes. Now I added the John Guest fittings and new tubing but even though I flushed the lines during tuning could this disease have been in the pump lining itself? Just wondering since it's the latest thing I've done.
Did you flush the pump out also? Used equipment, depending on the situation, can cause issues. Trapped water can become anaerobic. That in itself isn't really an issue, but there is a persistent rumor that ich tomonts can survive longer in that sort of an environment, and perhaps other diseases as well?

The new fittings and tubing are not an issue - they are rated for potable water applications.

Jay
 
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Yes I did flush the pump. Just wondering how long it even possible the ich could of hung on inside the pump tubing itself. I only flushed with new saltwater mix but only like 120ml I wonder if that was enough to flush everything out.
 

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Yes I did flush the pump. Just wondering how long it even possible the ich could of hung on inside the pump tubing itself. I only flushed with new saltwater mix but only like 120ml I wonder if that was enough to flush everything out.

The study that was done seems to indicate that ich tomonts can survive 76 days at 68 degrees, in an absence of oxygen. However, for the infection to restart, these tomonts must then activate and release theronts into the water in high enough numbers to infect the fish - and that is an unknown variable.

Jay
 
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Right now they will stay in this qt until the 12 then I will switch them to the second tank I purchased.

So is qt something I should start doing for corals, or just always take them off of the plugs? If I purchase and they are on rock then it's not like I would throw them in with copper so just put in the qt so that it would be fallow for a long enough period?
 

Melanie Fish

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Copper and corals def don't mix. Taking them off the plugs is a major help for keeping pests out of your tank. I always dip and remove plugs but don't qt corals. Obviously putting corals in qt is the safest bet but i don't keep a special coral qt tank
 
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Everyone is still moving around and only one of Valmingis is not eating but still swimming around not just in the water current of the power head.

So I did a water change lady night with vacuuming the bottom and this morning it looks like this. Is all the dots on the glass bottom ich?
 

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Jay Hemdal

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Everyone is still moving around and only one of Valmingis is not eating but still swimming around not just in the water current of the power head.

So I did a water change lady night with vacuuming the bottom and this morning it looks like this. Is all the dots on the glass bottom ich?
Ich tomonts are pretty small, largest I know of is about 0.75 mm, most are around half that size. I can't tell the size of those particles. That said, it is always a good practice to vacuum the bottom of a tank when there is an ich infection.

Jay
 
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Thank you sir.
This is a top down shot with all movement off. It looks like small particles like table salt. Very small none of them are bigger than a mechanical pencil lead. But I do vacuum it clear. Yesterday was a little of those dots. I cleaned and vacuumed it clear and today they are everywhere.
 

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jmichaelh7

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Holy Cow...

I feel sorry for the fish. That makes me get the jitters. We'll if you are already at therapeutic levels of Cu , there isn't much else to do i suppose
 

Jay Hemdal

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Thank you sir.
This is a top down shot with all movement off. It looks like small particles like table salt. Very small none of them are bigger than a mechanical pencil lead. But I do vacuum it clear. Yesterday was a little of those dots. I cleaned and vacuumed it clear and today they are everywhere.
I'd say these look really suspicious! I don't see ich tomonts in tanks because my systems are all really large, and most of them have substrate in them, so the trophonts would not be visible to me on a routine basis. Siphoning all that out each day would be a really good idea though!

Jay
 
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I'd say these look really suspicious! I don't see ich tomonts in tanks because my systems are all really large, and most of them have substrate in them, so the trophonts would not be visible to me on a routine basis. Siphoning all that out each day would be a really good idea though!

Jay
I will clean at water change again tonight and show you again tomorrow. But the fish are all out and seeing. Even the rapid breathing has seemed to slow.
 

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