help with strenthening DIY stand

davocean

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That's iron on or glue on, I only use that once in a great while really, not crazy about it, it usually peels away.
3/4" or 1" L shape or corner shape moulding is probably what cromag was suggesting and what is easiest for most DIY guys that don't miter corners
 
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Devaji

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That's iron on or glue on, I only use that once in a great while really, not crazy about it, it usually peels away.
3/4" or 1" L shape or corner shape moulding is probably what cromag was suggesting and what is easiest for most DIY guys that don't miter corners

ah yeah I dont want it to peel off! what if you use more wood glue on it? still a PITA?
I would prefer it with out molding/trim but open to suggestion.
 
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Devaji

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this is the look I am going for:
ADAstyleStand_11.jpg


images


images


06e17c9b877b00cc4b376b959b325eb1.jpg
 

dantimdad

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It's more than likely veneer over plywood or MDF.

Hard wood would be more prone to expansion/contraction.

Built many, many stands and almost always start with plywood. Then paint or veneer if the client so desires.
 
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Devaji

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These are cool, pretty much all clamps are cool, but for the same price I'd rather have the irwins w/ quick clamp and release, but for me building in the field time matters more.
The irwins are really strong and I use them all the time for many things, I've hauled lumber clamping to my rack in a pinch when short on rope!
They just cover more ground for me, light, I can set them on lumber or even drop them w/out dinging

where did you find the irwins w/ quick release for the same price?

I found these yost with quick release...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079HFZQF3/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
 

davocean

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LOVE love LOVE that last one the wood grain is amazing. guessing that is hard wood??

I had that last one saved as well, and think it was on one of those build threads over ... there, and I actually plan to do a FW planted tank w/ that type of stand, and yes solid wood or veneer.
Some of those can be tricky for DIY, some of those do just use the edge banding you posted earlier.
Usually edge band goes on edges of MDF or ply, and it can last pretty good mostly, but it's really easy to have spots that can lift, but those white cabs are probably edge banded, they are just usually done by machine to make perfect
 
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davocean

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It's more than likely veneer over plywood or MDF.

Hard wood would be more prone to expansion/contraction.

Built many, many stands and almost always start with plywood. Then paint or veneer if the client so desires.

Yeah you may be right on veneer, like I mentioned that is a different animal, takes practice to really make look good and right.
I do similar w/ good ply mitered.
Veneers are an art, and opens up a whole new world, there are some insane wood veneers of lumber we either can't get solid anymore or would be ridiculous in price
 

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Devaji

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yeah full veneer stand is prob. out of my skill level. but might try the edging?? or I look into trim have not got there yet.
getting my online cart ready hopefully i can place an order today for supplies!
 

dantimdad

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ah yeah I dont want it to peel off! what if you use more wood glue on it? still a PITA?
I would prefer it with out molding/trim but open to suggestion.
Yes, it's still a PITA. LOL.

If I can find wood close to the same grain pattern as ply, I rip 3/32" or 1/8" edge banding and glue it on before assembly and adjust the measurements accordingly. You would be surprised at how easily stain hides these pieces of trim.

Just don't nail it on. Glue sets quickly enough and you can actually use painters tape if you don't have enough clamps. I have even used rope and blocks of wood like a tourniquet in a pinch.
 
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Devaji

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Lowes, or at least close enough in price.
They usually have 2 packs or 4 packs of most of the smaller ones, and they have long bar clamps by irwin too but those get pricey

yeah I am looking at a 36" length my stand will be 30" high 24 os way to low but 36" to high. so 30-32 is perfect for me.
wish I would have got the SCA 75 and not the 90. same foot print but 4" lower in height.
 
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Devaji

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Yes, it's still a PITA. LOL.

If I can find wood close to the same grain pattern as ply, I rip 3/32" or 1/8" edge banding and glue it on before assembly and adjust the measurements accordingly. You would be surprised at how easily stain hides these pieces of trim.

Just don't nail it on. Glue sets quickly enough and you can actually use painters tape if you don't have enough clamps. I have even used rope and blocks of wood like a tourniquet in a pinch.

oh good idea but I dont have a table saw will be paying the lumbar yard to cut the wood for me $2/ cut maybe they will cut me a deal..lol but even if its 20 extra its worth it. as long as its straight and the right measurements...

I am debating stain VS paint the GF likes gray weathered stain I was just gonna go with a nice semi gloss black. but i am a guy she says we like that stuff... says its so bachelor
 

davocean

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Yeah, Dantimdad sounds like he knows some tricks, like I said a different animal, but I'd love to eventually learn more, but it takes a whole new direction
I would want dantimdad to just be my neighbor I could hit up for that stuff, and leave me to continue focus on being the best finish carpenter I can be!

It takes years to really get good at even just one facet of this stuff really, and by the time you get really good you're old and your physical limitations come into play, and some of the tools get really expensive, if you don't know the tricks to bypass some.
 

davocean

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Gloss black is tricky, it must be perfect to look right.
White is blinding, it hides imperfections.

I've been working a grey stain, classic grey, and then I apply jacobean and wipe most off, so you get a weather light brown w/ blue grey popping through.
It's become one of my favorites.

HD does sell a pre stained distressed wood now that is an ok cheat, and they make it in 1x planks w/ interlocking joints that can get a lot of people by.
 

dantimdad

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Yeah, Dantimdad sounds like he knows some tricks, like I said a different animal, but I'd love to eventually learn more, but it takes a whole new direction
I would want dantimdad to just be my neighbor I could hit up for that stuff, and leave me to continue focus on being the best finish carpenter I can be!

It takes years to really get good at even just one facet of this stuff really, and by the time you get really good you're old and your physical limitations come into play, and some of the tools get really expensive, if you don't know the tricks to bypass some.


Won't you be my neighbor!

LOL! Thanks for the compliment.

I like gray stain in both weathered and standard.

I have been using minwax gray lately. It works very well on luan believe it or not. I used the 5.5mm stuff like veneer and stain it and it's really nice looking. It helps that the place I get it from, it's made out of mahogany. What a shame that it mostly gets used for underlayment.
 

davocean

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Pics don't quite capture the richness of the grain and how it pops in person, but this is the blue grey(classic grey labeled minwax) and jacobean combo, this I did on western cedar to make false beams for a client.
Gives the general idea.

 

davocean

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Won't you be my neighbor!

LOL! Thanks for the compliment.

I like gray stain in both weathered and standard.

I have been using minwax gray lately. It works very well on luan believe it or not. I used the 5.5mm stuff like veneer and stain it and it's really nice looking. It helps that the place I get it from, it's made out of mahogany. What a shame that it mostly gets used for underlayment.

Lol!
Yeah I use that same stuff to protect floors, it's like $8 a sheet, and every time I get it I'm looking at the beautiful grain thinking it deserves something cooler than what I'm using it for.
 

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