Jeff's 150 Build - The Salt Box

Fin · Dec 11, 2013

Reeflogic said:
Love it. I know you already put the money into that clear / white hose you have, but if you ever change, you might try the spa or flex hose, I believe it is better insulated and it also doesn't allow algae growth from the sump / fuge lights. These clear / white hoses turn a dirty brown over time and are unsightly, it might take away from your beautifully plumbed system! I know it's minor, just adding my two cents, because I hated it after 3-6 months of using them and now I use the white spa hose and I like it much better! Wish it came in schedule 80 grey lol. Can't wait to see this beast in a year or two.

Flex PVC does come in black. I got some from Glass-Holes a couple of weeks ago. It is called "ultra flex" which is not quite as rigid as the spa flex.

Reeflogic · Dec 11, 2013

Fin said:
Flex PVC does come in black. I got some from Glass-Holes a couple of weeks ago. It is called "ultra flex" which is not quite as rigid as the spa flex.

Nice Gary, thanks!

CastAway · Dec 11, 2013

Yeah, I've been doubting the vinyl because I read somewhere that saltwater reacts with vinyl, and the clear turns opaque and gets brittle. At least the flexible hose is easily replaced, and won't cause a lot of down time when the day comes. It won't keep me from getting it wet, which is my priority. Thanks guys, seriously. Do the end pieces on ultra flex come separate, I mean can you put it together into any length you want?

Fin · Dec 11, 2013

Ultra Flex PVC is sold by the foot. It attaches to regular PVC fittings with plain PVC cement.

daytripp01 · Dec 14, 2013

JeffBowlin said:
Yeah, I've been doubting the vinyl because I read somewhere that saltwater reacts with vinyl, and the clear turns opaque and gets brittle. At least the flexible hose is easily replaced, and won't cause a lot of down time when the day comes. It won't keep me from getting it wet, which is my priority. Thanks guys, seriously. Do the end pieces on ultra flex come separate, I mean can you put it together into any length you want?

Yes I had to replace some the other night. It was as hard as a rock and transferring vibrations into my hard plumbing making way to much noise for my Sicce return pump!

CastAway · Dec 14, 2013

After I started buying equipment for this endeavor, I decided to increase the size of the display tank, kind of last minute. So, the single LED fixture I bought is inadequate for the tank size I have. So I've been debating, go ahead hang my undersized light fixture, or, wait and buy what I actually want and need. Well, I'm convinced at this point, short of selling a kidney, I'm not going to come up with the money for the lights I want. I need to keep this rock moving forward! Today I hung my fixture, and mounted it's controller.

Reeflogic · Dec 14, 2013

That there's art work my friend. Leave it as it is, charge admission! Having that extension on the end is so cool. Eagerly waiting for it to get wet in there!

CastAway · Dec 14, 2013

Thanks Doug. Just a little sand, rock and some containers for my water station before it's wet.

CastAway · Dec 19, 2013

Slight issue to be resolved. My Orphek Nilus fixture would not turn off at the end of it's programming. Turns out, there must be some stray current going on in my power supply. There are two on/off switches in the power circuit, one on the controller itself, and another on the power supply. The power supply is a Chauvet eight channel w/toggle switches. Long story short, when I take the power supply out of the equation, the light goes off completely. With the power supply in the circuit, current flows, and the light stays on, however dim. Not really sure how to remedy this, other than possibly taking the power supply apart and trying to repair it, or replacing it all together. I tried every channel, all allow current to flow. Not sure what this will mean for the other items. My pumps are plugged in, but turned off, and no current seems to be flowing for them.

CastAway · Dec 20, 2013

Yes, I really want and need an ATO. https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/r2...2reef-tunze-osmolator-christmas-giveaway.html

edsbeaker · Dec 23, 2013

This is quite a build for your first time. Very carefully thought out and well executed. It took me many tries to build a decent system, and I still haven't gotten it completely right. Your patience will definitely pay off in the end. Looking forward to seeing it filled and running.

CastAway · Dec 23, 2013

Thanks Marilyn. It seems like a long series of trials and errors so far, and the real learning curves havn't even started yet.

CastAway · Dec 26, 2013

For Christmas, 80lbs of dry Fiji Pink for the refugium. Was hoping this would not have to be rinsed, but am told it must be.

revhtree · Dec 27, 2013

Man that's looking awesome!

ReefPiracy · Dec 27, 2013

Had my tank up and running in one day.
Have to say that it looks like a very clean and nice set up. I have changed my set up 12 times at I upgraded.

D_Reep1106 · Dec 27, 2013

Can't wait to see this going, but I know you're even more anxious. Definitely tagging along.

CastAway · Dec 31, 2013

There are a lot of these, but, "if I knew then what I know now", I'd have spent less on my refugium light - a 4 bulb, 24" 96w WavePoint, and, would have bought more light up top!

CastAway · Jan 2, 2014

New build leak test question: does anyone have an opinion on if there is risk in using cold tap water to water test? I'm curious about the cold waters affect on the silicon, and, the need to get the water up to operating temperature in order to have a good leak test. Any input would be appreciated.

KingOfPain86 · Jan 2, 2014

You should be fine with the cold water.

CastAway · Jan 5, 2014

Well, water test almost over. What an experience for a first timer! There was (is) something unsettling about 210 gallons of water in my living room! Anyway, I learned a lot, and am glad I did it, as I was debating not doing it at all.

Lesson one, IT’S LOUD! A priority will be to skin the frame and try and cut down on the noise. I plan on at least six panels, adhesive Formica covered MDX, with sound board and maybe even acoustical foam as a backing, facing the inside. I had not intended on paneling the back, but think I may have to , to completely enclose the stand.

Lesson two, I should have followed through with the 2” overflow idea, as opposed to the 1-1/2”. The un-throttled output of the Iwaki 70 is just a little much for my overflow. The 1-1/2” will handle it, but barely. Actually, I think I could use a few more slots or teeth in my weir too. No worries though, as I can adjust flow with the valve pictured, which I intended for another purpose altogether, to by-pass the display completely for feeding and maintenance. I did not intend the valve as flow control, but oh well, glad I have it. I also have not added the valve and hose on top of the durso, and I think that may quite it down a bit too.

Lesson three, I really need the filter socks in place as soon as possible, as without, the bubbles are bad. It’ll be worse with salt water, so that’s not something I think I can wait on like I planned. With the filter socks just floating in place, there are no bubbles whatsoever.

Lesson four, the 300w Finnex will just not be enough, It’s taken 24hours to raise the temp 27.5 degrees, and I still have two degrees to go. I think Finnex sells a 500w that will be a good second heater, and 800w for the pair.

I did have four small leaks, one at a bulkhead, which I hand tightened a little more and fixed; another at my external skimmer pump, which I’ll fix once I drain it. The other two are at threaded fittings (pictured). Ought to be pretty easy to fix, but we’ll see. They were already over-tightened as they were, so I may have to use a sealing compound, or something.

Anyway, moving on. If anyone has a suggestion on stopping the leaks, please share.