Jeff's 150 Build - The Salt Box
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OP
OP
I was hoping not to have to disassemble, as it's a real pain, and to apply some kind of hardening sealant or something. Do you think it ought to be disassembled?
OP
OP
...also, I learned that any adjustment in the valves results in a varying water level where I will ultimately put the ATO float/sensor. I guess I'll have to find exactly where I want everything, then leave it. Even then, I guess the ATO will have to be turned off altogether when I do have to adjust a valve, say for water changes, then some effort in re-setting the valve to make sure I get the level back where it was. A lesson five was included a syphon break in my return lines, which I did not, and, included a check valve in my return line. Although I designed the sump to handle the overflow, it seems kind of dangerous as the Loc-Line can extend quite a ways down into the display. Anyway, I be making the syphon break and including the check valve. On that note, what is the best kind of check valve, most fail safe, if there is such a thing.
Fin
Professional Procrastinator
The best check valve is a Wye Valve. You can easily take these apart for periodic cleaning. When mounted vertically, the flow of water upward from your return pump pushes the cylinder in the valve up and out of the way. When the flow stops, the cylinder slides back down and stops the backward flow. They need to be cleaned periodically, so if you do use one, I would install a shut off valve above Wye, so you can stop the backward flow of watertemporarily, so you can open the wye and remove the cylinder for cleaning, without spilling too much water. They work well when properly maintained. Thay are also not that cheap, around $35-$40.
Here is how I used one on my new sump.
Here is how I used one on my new sump.
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TJ's Reef
Valuable Member
Jeff, a very nice and well thought out build and for time not long at all.... I took about a year on my 125g build before getting it up and running. Had such grandiose plans for keeping it all clean and tidy with all the equipment, plumbing and wires etc... then by the time you get it all done looks like any newer model car under the hood, not the pre '74 V8 with polished headers and braided hoses I had originally envisioned...lol
Anyway, looking forward to seeing your progression on this one.
Cheers, Todd
Anyway, looking forward to seeing your progression on this one.
Cheers, Todd
Fin
Professional Procrastinator
No, not sure why, but it is separate from the cap housing and has a gasket on it, but it does not depress. I will say though that these valves - as just about any other check valve - will definitely fail, if they are not kept clean. At least this one comes apart for easy cleaning.
OP
OP
Uh, yeah, I think I'll forgo the valve. Way too much for and 1-1/2". I'll just trust my syphon breaks and the capacity of my sumps. Wow!
Fin
Professional Procrastinator
Oh wow, I bet 1½" is pricey. I have only used 1". They are not fool proof anyway. All you need to do is keep those loc-line returns just below the surface and you won't have any worries.
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OP
OP
Yeah, having thought it through now, and having watched it syphon until the syphon broke naturally, I trust I can live without the valve. Funny, I was beginning to really regret all the capacity in the sump above the water-line, thinking it was a lot of glass that I really didn't need to buy. Now, kinda happy. Thanks again for the help Fin.
Rob.D
Moderator
Great looking build Jeff! In post #51 you have some Red Sea additives sitting in the tank, do you have any feedback on their additives? I've decided to start using the Red Sea Coral Colors and just picked up the Red Sea Reef Foundation 123+ from AM today.
OP
OP
Hey Rob. I have no experience with them. This is my first tank. I think the overall consensus is that they're the best one can get. I cannot wait to learn how to use them myself.
Intricateart
Well-Known Member
My wife and I have a 150g and went with a large refugium as well(55gal).One of the best decisions we made for our system.
OP
OP
In my ignorance (and I mean that) any nutrient export, and, numbers of beneficial micro fauna will be proportional to refugium size. I've seen some discussion on size and ratios, total system volume in relation to refugium volume. My own ratio is about 8:1. I think this ratio is subjective for several reasons, including nutrient availability, sand bed attributes, flow, etc.. So, the general goal was as large of a refugium as I could fit under the tank. As far as the sump size, the advantage is to increase the total system volume, with the logic that it's easier to balance a larger quantity of water than a small one. Of course this is pretty subjective as well.
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