Questions on compatibility and quarantine

[ksfulk]

After deciding that I wanted to keep some wrasses that I've always had my eyes on, but never really had the tank space for, Ive now got the space, but I want to make sure that the species that I am looking at have the best chances for cohabitation without too much bullying. So I would like some critiquing of my stocking list, which is as follows:

• Longfin Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus rubriventralis)
• Exquisite Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus exquisitus)
• Carpenter's Flasher Wrasse (Paracheilinus carpenteri)
• Ruby Head Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus cf cyanopleura)
• Red Head Solon Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus solorensis) *+
• Lineatus Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus lineatus) *+
• Hoeven's Wrasse (Halichoeres melanurus) *

* = Already owned
+= Currently in Quarantine

I believe that according to Hunter's wrasse cirrhilabrus complex chart. that these would be alright together, but I'd like some actual feedback on what the individuals are like. Right now I have the Solon and the Lineatus in quarantine (got both fish late last week) and so I'd like to order the others wrasses this week (through LiveAquaria) and get them going through treatment together so they can all be added at the same time.

What I'm not entirely sure about is whether or not a 40b is the right size for keeping all these guys at that same time and if there is a better manner in which to treat them all. My current QT is just sitting for observation, as I didn't want to start treatment until Ive gotten all the fish (no signs of disease or illness yet). So, is a round or two of prazipro and then a round of Chloroquine phosphate acceptable for these species, or are there some that are more sensitive to these treatments? Are there any wrasse specific treatments that are more acceptable to use on these guys?

Also, I have a large social acclimation box (from Synergy Reef) but only one box. With the Melanurus wrasse already in the DT, how should I go about adding them to the DT once the quarantine is complete? Do they all go in the acclimation box at the same time, or is it better to do in shifts? Is a day an acceptable amount of time in the box before letting them in? Or should it be shorter/longer?

@evolved @eatbreakfast

 

[eatbreakfast]

The only possible compatibility issue there could be is between solorensis and cf. cyanopleura, they are closely related.

That is a lot of wrasses for a 40b, but doable.

With wrasses I prefer 2 rounds of prazi and only observe for ich, only trating if there is evidence of ich. If it is necessary to treat for ich, I prefer quick cure over copper products. I have not used chloroquine phosphate, so cannot speak on it's use.

If they all go through quarantine simultaneously I would skip the acclimation box and use a mirror to distract the melanurus. There will be enough targets to prevent him from bullying any one fish too badly, and since you will be adding flashers and fairies rather than sand burying varieties he may not pay any attention to them at all.

 

[ksfulk]

First of all, thanks for the reply!

I completely missed that those two were in the same complex, as I was looking at the ones I was wanting to order, and not the ones that I already had. Thats a bummer. The C. cyanopleura and C. aurantidorsalis are two of my wife's favorites, she'll be irked that they wont play well together. Oh well. The 40b is only for QT, and with running prazi only and watching for signs of ich/other, Im hoping that there's enough distraction going on that it isnt an issue. I can always transfer some to one of the 10 gallon tanks I have lying around, but I dont have those set up with an ATO and other gadgets that make QT easier on me and the fish.

Now I have a few thoughts on replacing the C. cyanaopleura. Either A.) Replace the C. cyanopleura with another flasher, but I have read that having only two flashers tends to not end well, and some of the more common flashers can be jerks. If I order the P. carpenteri, would it be advisable to stick with only the one flasher, or could I pick up another flasher without much issue (likely a P. mccoskeri or P. flavianalis)?

Or B.) Replace the C. cyanopleura with another fairy - C. lubbocki. I've liked the look of the lubbock's fairy, but I've also read that they are all very aggresive for a fairy wrasse.

or C.) Stick with the listing I have (minus the C. cyanopleura) and pick up something else (non-wrasse) entirely.

 

[eatbreakfast]

First of all, thanks for the reply!

I completely missed that those two were in the same complex, as I was looking at the ones I was wanting to order, and not the ones that I already had. Thats a bummer. The C. cyanopleura and C. aurantidorsalis are two of my wife's favorites, she'll be irked that they wont play well together. Oh well. The 40b is only for QT, and with running prazi only and watching for signs of ich/other, Im hoping that there's enough distraction going on that it isnt an issue. I can always transfer some to one of the 10 gallon tanks I have lying around, but I dont have those set up with an ATO and other gadgets that make QT easier on me and the fish.

Now I have a few thoughts on replacing the C. cyanaopleura. Either A.) Replace the C. cyanopleura with another flasher, but I have read that having only two flashers tends to not end well, and some of the more common flashers can be jerks. If I order the P. carpenteri, would it be advisable to stick with only the one flasher, or could I pick up another flasher without much issue (likely a P. mccoskeri or P. flavianalis)?

Or B.) Replace the C. cyanopleura with another fairy - C. lubbocki. I've liked the look of the lubbock's fairy, but I've also read that they are all very aggresive for a fairy wrasse.

or C.) Stick with the listing I have (minus the C. cyanopleura) and pick up something else (non-wrasse) entirely.

Your a, b, and c options will all work, the only caveat is perhaps get 3 flashers instead of 2.

 

[evolved]

The only possible compatibility issue there could be is between solorensis and cf. cyanopleura, they are closely related.

Yeah, that's the only issue which potentially concerns me as well.

With wrasses I prefer 2 rounds of prazi and only observe for ich, only trating if there is evidence of ich.

And that's what I like to do also.

The C. cyanopleura and C. aurantidorsalis are two of my wife's favorites, she'll be irked that they wont play well together.

Well, they might be okay; it's really a matter of how much risk you want to take (but personally I would avoid that risk). The odds are against it.

Your a, b, and c options will all work, the only caveat is perhaps get 3 flashers instead of 2.

Yes; any of those could work. I tend to like option B myself, but it's really a matter of preference.


The only other thing I'd like to add is that many in a 40 at once concerns me a bit. If it were me, I'd do this in two batches just to take some stress off the QT process.

 

[ksfulk]

Honestly, I went back and forth most of today about this, as I was having a hard time with the options. I like the flashers, but the only one available was the yellowfin, which looks a lot like the carpenters. I would rather get a linespot or another species that I like the coloration on better. Seeing that the experts suggest more than one flasher gives me confidence that if this is an avenue I want to pursue, I should wait until something more interesting is available. I was really thinking about the lubbock's wrasse, but it seems like I was just getting another fish to simply get another fish, not because I really liked it. Maybe I'll end up with some other more glamorous fairy wrasse later. In the end, I decided to wait on adding even more fish to the tank, and opted to not get the cyanopleura or a replacement with this order. I figure I can always add another wrasse or two (or three!) if and when I find something else that catches my eye. I opted for a few inverts that I've had my eye on instead.

I always prefer hedging my bets on what will work, rather than "see what happens" - or at least I'm trying to do so with this tank - not to mention that trying to fish out a single fish in a 36" deep tank is a HUGE pain. :mad: If someone doesn't make it through QT, then I can always readjust my strategy later. I managed to trade a local guy a pair of 10 gallon tanks for a 29 gallon tank, and so I took 20 gallons of water out of that and added another 10ish gallons to get it all up and running. I then moved the lineatus and the solon to that tank, and I'm letting the 40b sit with new water in it until Wednesday when the newcomers should arrive. Hopefully that should be enough segregation to keep them "low stress" while they receive treatment.

With these guys split in two QT tanks, is it preferable to introduce them to the tank all at once, or split it over two different days? I can use the acclimation box with 1-2 fish at a time over a few days to get them all in, or I can put them all in at the same time - is there a preferable way?

And thanks for your help! I appreciate it. Makes me feel much more confident in my process!

 

[eatbreakfast]

If it were me, I would add them to the dt all at once without using the social acclimation box. It will prevent any one fish 'claiming' the whole tank as it's territory.

 

[4FordFamily]

If it were me, I would add them to the dt all at once without using the social acclimation box. It will prevent any one fish 'claiming' the whole tank as it's territory.

Agree 100%

 

[ksfulk]

I can handle that. Thanks again all for the advise and assistance!

 

[evolved]

Also agree with that plan.

 

[Ocelaris]

Sorry to bring up this thread from the dead, but what ever happened? Did you end up with just two flashers? I'm contemplating the same scenario and was wondering how it turned out?

 

[ksfulk]

I actually ended up with four flashers by the time things were said and done. That said I've sold that tank and livestock since. Half the battle is getting decent shipped specimen, the rest is diligence, acclimation, and patience