I am revisiting “does Prime detoxify ammonia”. I am working with three colorimetric ammonia sensing films: Seachem Alert, Seneye and Pacific Sentry. I am in the midst of studying the Seachem Alert film. Here are some potentially useful observations and ideas about the Seachem Alert film that might apply to the Seneye ammonia sensing film.
Can't wait to get into this with you guys!
While I 100% agree that statistical analysis is the best option it also requires an amount of experimental control that is outside of my knowledge base and capabilities. While I call this an experiment I should be calling it a trial or test. Experiments are only born out of a hypothesis derived from trials/tests/accidents. I am simply sharing my findings and others want to repeat it to confirm something then they will. At some point I will repeat the dry start experiment above and correct some experimental controls (container exposed to light, slide not sanatized, ect) but given that its not free to me and I don't see much value personally in repeating it I will continue to just state when I saw and allow people to pick holes at it as needed.
What is your hypothesis? You also need to make sure pH - is at a constant level? Unless you're measuring N3-N. PS - How will you Mae sure you will does .125 ppm every 12 hours (i.e. how are you measuring that?). PPS - I believe - though I cannot find the reference - is that clowns do not produce anywhere near that level - depending on the size of the tank. For example - in a swimming pool - a clown would produce 0 ppm (measured total ammonia - in a glass jar it would be higher)
LOL I checked it - I'm not sure its correct. What I would do - instead - is take water with a known (measured) ammonia concentration - and adding that to your rock. As compared to using 'drops', etc - to figure it out - but again - I do not know how you're doing the calculations - since a lot of your = signs are approximation signs
Seneye will catch NH3 and I will make a solution and dose through a calibrated doser controlled by reef-pi. A specific ammonia level isn’t as significant in this case as much as it is a reference point on bioload. If I can nail down a good starting dose for “2 clowns” then I should just be able to increase the dose 30 fold. I do predict that a bioload level would be reached
Thats essentially what I was trying to do. Just trying to make a 500 ml solution where each mL is .125 ppm when dosed into 4 gallons. My brain is tired tonightLOL I checked it - I'm not sure its correct. What I would do - instead - is take water with a known (measured) ammonia concentration - and adding that to your rock. As compared to using 'drops', etc - to figure it out - but again - I do not know how you're doing the calculations - since a lot of your = signs are approximation signs
LOL. Not even going to try to unravel the math but as usual Lasse is likely correct
Yeah I followed the original math (though Lasse used 64% excreted) just wasnt sure what the caveat was for when you use dry vs frozen... Do you ignore Dry Protein?LOL. Not even going to try to unravel the math but as usual Lasse is likely correct
I just looked at the nutrition facts on my frozen brine shrimp and marine cuisine cubes. It tells you the percent crude protein. If the cube is 5 grams, multiply this by the percent crude protein. Multiply that number by 0.16 to get the amount of nitrogen in that much protein. Multiply that number by 17/14 to get the mass of ammonia from that much protein. You can multiply that by .8 or .9 to get the amount of NH3 excreted or just skip this final refinement. This number of mg of ammonia is divided by the total volume in your system in liters to give you a ppm amount of ammonia imported by the food.
For fish flakes, the percent protein is probably a dry weight, a big number like 50%, while for the frozen cubes itis a small number like 2% because of the high water content. It is a matter of what you are tossing into the aquarium. Five grams of dry food imports much more nitrogen than five grams of frozen food.
You found it
If the percent crude protein is given - that´s the easiest way of calculate it directly as Dan has done it here. My two 80 % is first to take away the amount that will be bound in the fish as biomass and the next 80 % is in order to take away the amount that´s not directly excreted =.8*0.8 = 0.64 -> 64 % excreted, If you read in books or internet that artemia content x % on dry weight - it is not the same as x % on wet weight. If you know the water content of artemia you can calculate the wet percent. If protein is 40 % on dry weight - water content is 80 % - you will have my 5 division.LOL. Not even going to try to unravel the math but as usual Lasse is likely correct
I just looked at the nutrition facts on my frozen brine shrimp and marine cuisine cubes. It tells you the percent crude protein. If the cube is 5 grams, multiply this by the percent crude protein. Multiply that number by 0.16 to get the amount of nitrogen in that much protein. Multiply that number by 17/14 to get the mass of ammonia from that much protein. You can multiply that by .8 or .9 to get the amount of NH3 excreted or just skip this final refinement. This number of mg of ammonia is divided by the total volume in your system in liters to give you a ppm amount of ammonia imported by the food.
