Skimmer Q&A Thread

[creas]

Hey guys, I'm looking for a recommendation for a skimmer upgrade. I'm currently running a Reef Octopus 110SSS on a 45 "cube". When I add my sump and subtract for live rock I estimate I have 55 gallons of water. I'll be running the Fauna Marin Ultralith system which relies heavily on skimming so I'd like to get a good, high quality skimmer that isn't too oversized. I'd prefer in-sump but can manage with an out-of-sump if it's worth it. Thanks to anyone who helps.

 

[mcarroll]

How do you feel about the Reef Octopus? Why replace it?

 

[creas]

It's a decent skimmer but I feel as if I settled for it. It got it because if it's smaller footprint when I thought sump space was a bigger problem than it was. That being said I've also never really gotten it to produce a consistently dark skimate, despite heathy feedings.

 

[McMullen]

I'm struggling with my Diablo, have never gotten thick skimmate.

 

[mcarroll]

It's a decent skimmer but I feel as if I settled for it. It got it because if it's smaller footprint when I thought sump space was a bigger problem than it was. That being said I've also never really gotten it to produce a consistently dark skimate, despite heathy feedings.

See next reply below - might change some expectations, or confirm your idea.

Also, if you're fairly happy with the 110SSS (sounds to be the case, perhaps with some changes to the setup) then the real question in my mind is whether the skimmer is undersized or not.

1. If it skims as expected some of the day and then runs idle for some part of the day, that's about what I shoot for as "normal".
2. If it skims all the time, 24/7, it's undersized for the load.
3. If you have trouble getting it to make enough foam to "wet skim" then it's possible the skimmer is over-sized.

If you can, make sure your install is ideal (nothing magical, just following the mfgr's guidance) and get the skimmer set up for wet-skimming. Then wherever your scenario fits on 1, 2 and 3 above you'll know whether you need to think about a replacement. You might come to appreciate the small footprint someday...or maybe you'll decide that a different style skimmer would be preferred for some other reason!

I'm struggling with my Diablo, have never gotten thick skimmate.

"consistently dark skimmate" "thick skimmate" "sludge" et al, are a ridiculous creation of skimmer marketing...your system would have to be dead or dying if it produced anything that came out of a skimmer in that manner.

Real skimmate can certainly vary by feed, but in general it doesn't. It's usually light to medium brown.

The only way the word "thick" gets involved with skimmate is when you don't consistently keep your skimmer cleaned or you have a bad setup or bad design and you get a coating of skimmate around the reaction neck.

This coating can be anywhere from slimy to peanut-buttery in consistency. This is not a goal. The object is to remove that buildup from the tank AND from the skimmer...so "thick" is a problem and maintenance chore, not a goal.

What you want in most scenarios is practically the opposite - to wet-skim.

That means that skimmate is watery enough for virtually all of the brown sludgy stuff to make out of the system and into the collection cup. You'll know if you're doing it right because cleaning the neck and other parts of your skimmer should be needed much less often.

The skimmate, when doing it this way, will always be watery and usually pale yellow-brown - usually with some sediment. THAT is the goal.

I don't obsess over it, but I roughly try to make sure my skimmer fills the collection cup in that manner about every day or so.

I balance that against setting it "too high" where it over-foams when something strange happens in the tank. (Hardly ever, but I plan for it.)

 

[creas]

See next reply below - might change some expectations, or confirm your idea.

Also, if you're fairly happy with the 110SSS (sounds to be the case, perhaps with some changes to the setup) then the real question in my mind is whether the skimmer is undersized or not.

1. If it skims as expected some of the day and then runs idle for some part of the day, that's about what I shoot for as "normal".
2. If it skims all the time, 24/7, it's undersized for the load.
3. If you have trouble getting it to make enough foam to "wet skim" then it's possible the skimmer is over-sized.

If you can, make sure your install is ideal (nothing magical, just following the mfgr's guidance) and get the skimmer set up for wet-skimming. Then wherever your scenario fits on 1, 2 and 3 above you'll know whether you need to think about a replacement. You might come to appreciate the small footprint someday...or maybe you'll decide that a different style skimmer would be preferred for some other reason!

Thank you for your input and you suggestions. It's caused me to re-evaluate and I've come to the conclusion that it is possibly over-sized. I would say that statement 1 is closest to my situation but it takes work to get the wet skim and I feel as if the point between wet skim and overflowing the skimmer is very close. It will run smoothly for a couple days, filling the cup with that nice light brown you talked about, but if I clean the glass or stir something up the skimmer overflows quickly. I have it on control to shut off during feeding and cleaning modes. If I lower the level even a tad it doesn't produce a wet skim. Does that sound like the skimmer is oversized/tank understocked?

 

[McMullen]

Thanks @mcarroll, in that case it works fine!

 

[mcarroll]

I would say that statement 1 is closest to my situation but it takes work to get the wet skim and I feel as if the point between wet skim and overflowing the skimmer is very close.

Totally normal for a standard needlewheel skimmer from what I can tell....and not uncommon on other types.

I have the same balancing act (most of us) - you can probably refine your approach.

When you have to clean the skimmer or have an overflow or otherwise have to make a correction to the skimmer's setup:

1. Make only one change to the skimmer at a time.
2. Make changes only once per day - preferably at the same time of day.
3. Base changes ONLY on the production of skimmate.
4. Remember that you can tweak too far and start causing overflows in those occasional scenarios.
5. If you do it this way and have an overflow, you can dial back the very last change you made.
6. DONE.

Changes to your routine can definitely impact the situation. It seems like when my feeding is more inconsistent the skimmer acts up more.

If I lower the level even a tad it doesn't produce a wet skim. Does that sound like the skimmer is oversized/tank understocked?

Maybe slightly at most, if you have a pretty light bioload....from what I read on coralvue's site, it looks like it should be just the right size.

I would try the strict adjustment routine above and just don't try to be very aggressive about the setup changes when you make them.

 

[ruppertb]

Hello everyone I'm looking for some people that are running a reef octopus xp3000sss and willing to hate photos of how deep you have it

 

[ruppertb]

That was supposed to say share. And it won't let me edit my post it just shows up blank.

 

[Jsieger89]

I have a 90 cube with a heavy bioload. Even tuning gfo and feeding less then 1/2 cube a day phosphates stay between .03 and 1.0 Istalky around the high rang my nitrates are 25-30. I'm using an xp1000sss. I have what I Believe to be a BM-180 cs. Would this be an upgread

 

[Jsieger89]

 

[acro86]

Ok guys I'm currently in the process of building a 150g 48x30x24 SPS dominate and a sump of about 60g. Help with what to get, where to look, what not to want. I had been looking at the vertex alpha 200 but was told it may be too much skimming. I also looked at the Octo elite 200int but was told that the build on that skimmer may not be as good. I'm currently now looking towards a BK double cone but not sure I wanna spend that much.

 

[mcarroll]

I have a 90 cube with a heavy bioload. Even tuning gfo and feeding less then 1/2 cube a day phosphates stay between .03 and 1.0 Istalky around the high rang my nitrates are 25-30. I'm using an xp1000sss. I have what I Believe to be a BM-180 cs. Would this be an upgread

It sounds like the skimmer upgrade is for the 1.0 phosphates. If you just want this skimmer, or don't like your current one, then by all means get it. But I think expecting a skimmer upgrade to resolve a phosphate issue is going to lead to disappointment. Unless there's a problem with your current skimmer, I'd just set it to wet-skim as best you can and look elsewhere for the answer to the phosphate issue. (If that's really the issue, have you opened a thread on that yet? Obviously PO4 can come from more than one place, but the #1 place I'd look is the sandbed...it can hold a ton of detritus and still look OK on top. Swirl something like your finger around in the sand in strategic locations where detritus might settle and see what you stir up. Anything other than pure-white aragonite means detritus - and you might have to look closely. Sand cleaning is not worth the effort, if you do find detritus....it's just as much work - maybe less - to remove the sand bed entirely. It's definitely cheap to do....even if you decide to replace the sand (vs going bare bottom) it doesn't cost much.

I'd look at a Tunze 9410 or an old-school AquaC EV120 if you're really looking to switch skimmers.

Ok guys I'm currently in the process of building a 150g

Tunze 9415 or Aqua C EV180, IMO.

 

[Jej34]

Can anyone give tuning tips for reef octopus ss110. Not really sure how to tune it correctly. It's been working ok but not real sure I'm getting 100% out of it. I tune it until the water/ bubble line is about 1" from the bottom of the collection cup.

 

[Jsieger89]

I own both skimmers already, just curious what one of thought oils perform the best.

 

[luke33]

I have a 90 cube with a heavy bioload. Even tuning gfo and feeding less then 1/2 cube a day phosphates stay between .03 and 1.0 Istalky around the high rang my nitrates are 25-30. I'm using an xp1000sss. I have what I Believe to be a BM-180 cs. Would this be an upgread

The BM is larger and also pulls more air meaning more contact time for DOC's to bond. So yes I would consider it an upgrade. How are you testing for phosphates as that is a huge swing. Do you have a refugium? How long has your tank been set up?

 

[Jsieger89]

My tank has been set up a year and a half. I will post my water test picture that will show you my Prameters. recently I have switched to a Hanna phosphorus low range checker then convert to phosphate. Actually my apex is smart and converted it for me. I check alk with a Hanna checker as well. I do have a 15 gal fuge but strangely enuf can't get any growth from macro algy. Some even die. I have tried more dark time less dark time no dark time different bulbs different algys. I recently installed a Santa Monica algy scrubber. Hog1.0 witch should help once it takes hold. My water change schedule has been at least 25 gal every 3 weeks. Not going to lie I have been lazy at times since this ranked birth, But most the time it's 25 every other week, sometimes I've done it once a week.... nitrates are rock solid at 30. You said you don't think bigger skimmer will help phosphates. What about nitrates also mind explaining y it will not help phosphates?

 

[luke33]

My tank has been set up a year and a half. I will post my water test picture that will show you my Prameters. recently I have switched to a Hanna phosphorus low range checker then convert to phosphate. Actually my apex is smart and converted it for me. I check alk with a Hanna checker as well. I do have a 15 gal fuge but strangely enuf can't get any growth from macro algy. Some even die. I have tried more dark time less dark time no dark time different bulbs different algys. I recently installed a Santa Monica algy scrubber. Hog1.0 witch should help once it takes hold. My water change schedule has been at least 25 gal every 3 weeks. Not going to lie I have been lazy at times since this ranked birth, But most the time it's 25 every other week, sometimes I've done it once a week.... nitrates are rock solid at 30. You said you don't think bigger skimmer will help phosphates. What about nitrates also mind explaining y it will not help phosphates?

Yes a skimmer will help pull out nitrates and phosphates. I never mentioned they would not pull out phosphates. Your skimmer will really pull out the organics before they turn into phosphates or nitrates, or sulfur for that matter so if you are having issue's keeping up with your trates, phosphates...etc the larger skimmer may make a difference. If you already have a phos or nitrate issue water changes will help with the trates and GFO would be a better way to pull out existing phos, or LaCl or other phosphate remover.

 

[rs1831]

Hello,

I am currently looking for a skimmer for a 40 gallon frag tank with a 20 gallon long sump. I'll have about 7 inches of water in the skimmer compartment so I need to find a skimmer that will operate in that much water. I've been looking at the Skimz 123 d-series but would like feedback or suggestions on that skimmer or anything else that would work.

Best,
Roland