White Spots on goby and pygmy angel.

[Darkartist]

Nocticed spots after water change. Damsels are fine. No color issues.

 

[TheEngineer]

Oh, yikes! Probably ich or velvet.... This is the wrong spot for this (I'll ask the mods to move it).

Let's get some attention for you @4FordFamily @Humblefish @melypr1985 @Big G

 

[TheEngineer]

You're gonna get some questions so, let's start getting some answered:

How long have you had the fish?
Did you QT the fish?
When was the last fish added?
Have you added anything (corals, rock, fish, inverts) to the tank recently?
What are your water parameters (all of them)?

 

[Darkartist]

Oh, yikes! Probably ich or velvet.... This is the wrong spot for this (I'll ask the mods to move it).

Let's get some attention for you @4FordFamily @Humblefish @melypr1985 @Big G

Sorry wasn't sure where to put just saw emergency. And why would a water change have caused this? Fish looked amazing before. And are my coral ok? Do I treat whole tank? Or quarintine?

 

[Big G]

That looks like a pretty good case of Ich. From the picture of the goby, the spots look more oval and less than you usually find with velvet. So the following links by Humblefish should give you everything you need for going forward. Beautiful fish by the way.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ich-cryptocaryon-irritans.191226/#post-2192627
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ich-eradication-vs-ich-management.188775/#post-2171424

 

[TheEngineer]

And why would a water change have caused this?

Stress tends to be a trigger for these things to show their ugly faces.

 

[Darkartist]

You're gonna get some questions so, let's start getting some answered:

How long have you had the fish?
4 weeks

Did you QT the fish?
Yes

When was the last fish added?
2 weeks ago

Have you added anything (corals, rock, fish, inverts) to the tank recently?
Coral, live rock, snails,crabs, conch.

What are your water parameters (all of them)?

Not sure just yet. Just did a water change and didn't test whole tank wanted to give it time to mix. Previously they were
Salinity 1.025
Temp 80
Alk 10.6
Calcium 400
Mag 1240
Nitrate 1.0
Phosphates .25

 

[HotRocks]

Looks like ich to me.

You will want to move the fish to a QT to be treated and allow the DT to be fallow for 76 days.

Do you have pics of the pygmy?

 

[Darkartist]

Looks like ich to me.

You will want to move the fish to a QT to be treated and allow the DT to be fallow for 76 days.

Do you have pics of the pygmy?

What about coral and anemone ? Also cuc?

 

[HotRocks]

What about coral and anemone ? Also cuc?

All inverts are good to stay in the DT for fallow period. You just have to move all of the fish to QT.

Removing the fish breaks the parasite cycle. The parasites will starve and die off without a fish to host.

 

[Darkartist]

Angel hides im trying to thou

 

[Big G]

Yep. Pretty bad case of Ich.

 

[Darkartist]

Yep. Pretty bad case of Ich.

Wow in just 1 hour. Rip

 

[Big G]

Must have been both Ich/velvet. Sorry for your loss. Time is of the essence for the rest of your fish. For rapid treatment of velvet, here's Humblefish's treatment advisory. It also will take care of Ich.

The short version:

• 5 minute freshwater dip
• Immediately afterwards, perform a chemical bath (in saltwater matching SG/temp the fish came from). You have two options:

1. Acriflavine (preferred) - Do the bath for 75-90 minutes, but remove the fish immediately at the first sign of distress. Aerate heavily both before & during the bath, and temperature control the water. The following products contain acriflavine: Acriflavine-MS and Ruby Reef Rally. DO NOT mix acriflavine with any other chemicals.
2. Formalin - Do the bath for 30-60 minutes max, but remove the fish immediately at the first sign of distress. Aerate heavily both before & during the bath, and temperature control the water. The following products contain formalin: Formalin-MS, Quick Cure, Aquarium Solutions Ich-X, Kordon Rid-Ich Plus. Use protection (rubber gloves, face mask, eye protection, etc.) whenever handling formalin as it is a known carcinogen! However, you can add Methylene Blue to the formalin bath (1 capful per 2-3 gallons of bath water.)

• After the bath, place the fish in a QT pre-dosed at 80mg/gal using Chloroquine phosphate. In theory, copper (exs. Cupramine, Coppersafe, Copper Power) should work just as well as CP. However, due to how fast velvet can reproduce you don’t have the luxury of slowly ramping up the copper level as is normally advised. Therefore, the fish needs to be placed in a QT with copper already at minimum therapeutic levels. This is the advantage CP has over copper in this particular situation.
• While in QT, use a wide spectrum antibiotic (exs. Seachem Kanaplex, Furan-2) for the first week to ward off any possible bacterial infections. Secondary bacterial infections are very common in fish with preexisting parasitic infestations such as velvet.
• Keep the fish in CP or copper (at therapeutic levels) for one month. However, you can transfer the fish into a non-medicated holding tank for observation after just two weeks (explained below). DO NOT lower the CP or copper level before transferring.

 

[Darkartist]

Must have been both Ich/velvet. Sorry for your loss. Time is of the essence for the rest of your fish.


Both? So it's ich and velvet? Not big deal. Trying freshwater dip if that doesn't work and fire shrimp doesn't help I'll just pull all fish. Corals were my worry. Fish are easily replaced.

 

[4FordFamily]

I actually think the first photos look like velvet. It’s hard to tell but even tiny velvet spots look large on a tiny goby.

Sorry for the loss but the remaining fish need treated in copper and the tank run fallow for 76 days.

 

[Darkartist]

Didn't lose anything yet. And don't see why I'd need tank empty for 76 days if I add fire shrimp and cleaner wrasse which both eat ich.

 

[CalebWBrink2000]

I'd advise that you look up the lifecycle of ich.

It's possible to live with it, but if you can live without it, that's obviously better. The likelihood of your wrasse and shrimp curing your outbreak is slim; I find that they only help very large fish, and even then, they may show no interest. They're also not gonna get all the parasites, as ich likes to move to the gills.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Didn't lose anything yet. And don't see why I'd need tank empty for 76 days if I add fire shrimp and cleaner wrasse which both eat ich.

Ich is present already and immune system weakens, the cysts of ick become adults and are visible to the naked eye and likely laid eggs. That's why a recommendation of 76 (??) days is presented. 60 days is ageneral safety rule as with the presence of no hot(fish), the ich dies off due to starvation.
By chance did you change water and add water that was cooler than the tank temp? That is one trigger as is stress, aggression, poor diet and the list goes on

 

[4FordFamily]

Didn't lose anything yet. And don't see why I'd need tank empty for 76 days if I add fire shrimp and cleaner wrasse which both eat ich.

Sorry but neither eats ich, they’ve never found ich or velvet inside any of them during a necropsy.

It wouldn’t matter if they did, they can’t rid a tank of them, unfortunately.

It’ll take any new fish additions you add, so IMO you should start it up now instead of prolonging the inevitable.