Center glass brace replace or not?

[rpkneumann]

What's the chance ... I had the browser open on "one day glass" to check how much a euro brace would cost me. About $190.
Can't do eurobrace because of my external overflow.
Replacing the brace was on my mind.
But was looking for a bigger opening. I also might ruin the trim taking the glass off, that's what triggered my thoughts for alternatives.

 

[Troylee]

Do you have pictures of the center brace in question? I mean is it all blacked out or just cloudy? Either way they get salt creep very fast and block light either way… on your tank I’d run 2 separate lights over the openings and call it a day personally.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Thank you for the explanation /
Wasn't ready todo a lot of math but my engineering heart just wanted to understand it better.
Yes, this is my tank. A 2005 Oceanic.
This thread pretty much confirmed what i thought the top rims function is. I was insecure if i can take the trim off.
I like the fabricated frame.
Since the metal tensile strength is great, would I be able to get away with one 3" metal strip shaped like a u?

You can use a U shaped strap with these two considerations

1 - a narrow strap will not provide the same buckling support as the 14" wide glass brace. That is why I suggested two 14" L channels attached together with bar stock. A single bar stock cross brace may work but depending on rigidity of the joint and angle may not provide as much support.

2 - If the fabricated U is not stiff enough in the 90 bends then the "tabs" could yield under force. That is party why I chose angle iron attached to bar stock as the "clamp" instead of bending bar stock into a "U"

 

[BeanAnimal]

Here is a photo of a similar solution

 

[rpkneumann]

Do you have pictures of the center brace in question? I mean is it all blacked out or just cloudy? Either way they get salt creep very fast and block light either way… on your tank I’d run 2 separate lights over the openings and call it a day personally.

Do you have pictures of the center brace in question? I mean is it all blacked out or just cloudy? Either way they get salt creep very fast and block light either way… on your tank I’d run 2 separate lights over the openings and call it a day personally.

TroyLee
The project has a ways to go. First refinish the Tank, then plumbing, then .....
The tank is 48" long. The brace is 14" ,leaves 17" for each side.
I own two Kessil AP700. The lights on the AP700 are 12" apart. That's good coverage and i would need to run them at less than 50% probably at 10" hight to get the 24" front to back.
Want to run a Mixed tank with Softies/LPS. enough light for that.
I can see that this would work.
I have not done my aquascaping yet but can adjust accordingly
I had thrown every chemical and process short of polishing at the glass.
here is the latest..

 

[kenchilada]

It comes back so fast I wouldn’t run it with that glass there, but you do need some kind of support. Just find a better tank.

 

[BeanAnimal]

If mild acid (vinegar, whatever) and baking soda scrubbing did nothing, then it is likely too deep to do much with. Next step would be cerium oxide or diamond paste and a buffing pad... lots of them.

 

[BeanAnimal]

It comes back so fast I wouldn’t run it with that glass there, but you do need some kind of support. Just find a better tank.

I think that is actually not bad advice. Replace it with narrow metal or just look for a different tank. Great for FO or FW but not a reef where light is important.

 

[Troylee]

TroyLee
The project has a ways to go. First refinish the Tank, then plumbing, then .....
The tank is 48" long. The brace is 14" ,leaves 17" for each side.
I own two Kessil AP700. The lights on the AP700 are 12" apart. That's good coverage and i would need to run them at less than 50% probably at 10" hight to get the 24" front to back.
Want to run a Mixed tank with Softies/LPS. enough light for that.
I can see that this would work.
I have not done my aquascaping yet but can adjust accordingly
I had thrown every chemical and process short of polishing at the glass.
here is the latest..

Is it on the outside of the glass or inside the tank? I’m assuming it goes away if it’s wet and looks clear? If so, you could clear coat it on the outside to make it more clear.

 

[rpkneumann]

Is it on the outside of the glass or inside the tank? I’m assuming it goes away if it’s wet and looks clear? If so, you could clear coat it on the outside to make it more clear.

Its Inside the tank. Tried everything short of polishing.

 

[rpkneumann]

Center brace is gone, so is the top trim which ended up having many fractures and breakages anyhow.

I will continue this in my build thread for the "old Faithful"

I starting to find the parts i need to build my center brace replacement.
I will use two 2" wallmount-glass clamps (for 1/2" thick glass) and a 2" x 25" x 1/4" aluminium flat bar.
Total cost about $20.

Anybody have any experience with saltwater resistant paint which sticks to metal?

- Rust-oleum Heat paint? ~ $12/spray can
- Rust-oleum Engine Enamel? ~ $10/spray can
- POR-15 Top Coat-direct to metal? ~ $32/spray can

​

 

[BeanAnimal]

Eastwood automative rattle cans.

DIY anodizing

Or maybe an anodizing shop nearby - would cost almost nothing for something that small.

 

[Troylee]

Center brace is gone, so is the top trim which ended up having many fractures and breakages anyhow.

I will continue this in my build thread for the "old Faithful"

I starting to find the parts i need to build my center brace replacement.
I will use two 2" wallmount-glass clamps (for 1/2" thick glass) and a 2" x 25" x 1/4" aluminium flat bar.
Total cost about $20.

Anybody have any experience with saltwater resistant paint which sticks to metal?

- Rust-oleum Heat paint? ~ $12/spray can
- Rust-oleum Engine Enamel? ~ $10/spray can
- POR-15 Top Coat-direct to metal? ~ $32/spray can

​

Anything on aluminum has to be sanded and then use an acid etching primer before any paint… personally I would have it powder coated for longevity myself.

 

[rpkneumann]

The bar is Aluminium and the clamps are stainless steel 316 - marine
Does anodizing protect them?
I thought stainless steel can not be anodized.
Guess I’ll ask and also look for a shop doing powder coating.

 

[BeanAnimal]

No, stainless can not be anodized like aluminum.

 

[rpkneumann]

Thank you confirming this.
I’ll have it powder coated.

 

[Jimbo327]

You are putting a bit of money into refurbishing a 20 year old tank. Look into putting that money into a newer (used) tank without all of the issues. You may be surprised on the prices of used tanks when reefers want to get out of the hobby.

I understand you may be attached to the tank because I had a 20 year old Honda Prelude, and by the end of that 20 years, I was putting more money into fixing it up than it was worth. After 20 years, material will break down especially being exposed to saltwater.

 

[rpkneumann]

You got a valid point.
I’m not really attached to it. In parallel I’m looking for a newer used one.
The way I think about it is that it is my apprentice piece. I’ve made every mistake possible so far. Check my build thread of old faithful and I do not believe that I’m done with make it more mistakes.
It’s been an incredible learning curve. But also a lot of fun.

 

[rpkneumann]

Water Leak Test.

 

[rpkneumann]

Follow-up solution for me
I pulled of the top rim, cut out the center brace and replaced it with an Aluminium brace.
Made it out of a 1/4" thick strip of 2" wide aluminium and stainless steel wall-mounting brackets for 1/2" glass. They come with rubber pads.
These are heavy duty mounts used to hold large panels of tempered glass for balustrades.
I had the assembly powder coated and used black bolts for the assembly.
I did measure if the walls showed any bow during full water test...result NONE.