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I used BRS 1/8" netting and the spline in a DIY frame made of a solid 1/4" thick sheet of acrylic. Works much better on complex shapes and a whole lot stronger.
Nice to see all these very nicely crafted aquarium covers! Great work.
I have installed this cover to my aquarium, extremely effective, and it is barely visible with the lights on!
Everything has to look top quality. No saggy screens or misalignment to the grid pattern, it all has to be perfect especially for how much it cost. Even now, I'm going to flame polish the edge to give it a glass like finish vs a machine cut.That was my first thought too.
Stop looking at your lid and look at your fish and coral more.
I understand when you spot something that bugs you and you can't avoid seeing it.
here is my solution for screens on a eurobraced tank. I used "polycarbonate h jamb" in the size that matched my screen frame thickness. This is the stuff you use on frameless glass shower enclosures for the door to seal against. I was looking for a solution because I couldn't stand the idea of having this beautiful eurobraced tank and just having a screen sit on top. the screen sits flush with the top of the glass. The screen is the BRS stuff.
I made mine from 1/4" acrylic too. It was what I had left over from building my sump. Acrylic absorbs water so it starts to pull up from the corners over time. It's symmetrical though so I simply flip it over and it starts over.
My tank is 48"x30" so I wanted the center "brace" to hold up the screen over the length. I also set up my auto feeder on top of it to drop pellets through the screen. The auto feeder sits over the top of the overflow. I have the apex turn off the return pump a couple mins before it feeds so that the food doesn't just go down the overflow.
I used an 1/8" bit as well to route the groove for the spline. There are different thickness splines so make sure you match up your groove with the spline you get. Also routing an 1/8" into the side of 1/4" material isn't the easiest thing to do. It leaves only 1/16" on either side.
Exactly.Is that a Neptune feeder? I assume you don't have to cut a hole for it and the food falls through the netting.
I had trouble keeping the frame from bowing when I got the mesh tight enough to prevent sagging. It took a couple tries but I finally achieved a nice result by adding a center brace. Also designed and 3D printed some supports to hold the frame flush.
This thread has been dormant for a couple of months buy I have a question: I'm doing an upgrade to a 120 and I decided to go over the top with the return. I need to figure out an inside corner for a frame, since the return pipe will have to be accomodated for. I've never worked with acrylic and I'm not sure that the screen door corner pieces can be manipulated to work in the manner that I need.
This thread has been dormant for a couple of months buy I have a question: I'm doing an upgrade to a 120 and I decided to go over the top with the return. I need to figure out an inside corner for a frame, since the return pipe will have to be accomodated for. I've never worked with acrylic and I'm not sure that the screen door corner pieces can be manipulated to work in the manner that I need.
I thought about this and was concerned about the structural integrity as well.I did do reverse turns on mine as a cut out for my HOB stuff, but it requires shaving away like half of the angle adapter and it's not super confidence inspiring in the rigidity department.
I guess this would work albeit a last resort.Just use a regular rectangle for most of the lid, and a strip of eggcrate in the back for the cutouts. That's what I did after seeing someone else do the same thing