- Joined
- Aug 14, 2017
- Messages
- 97
- Reaction score
- 90
You can drain it down some and still drill it with water in it.... just saying.
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
I tried to tell them but they are dead set on using that PVC crap. Like u said there’s a reason people aren’t using PVC overflows.
You can drain it down some and still drill it with water in it.... just saying.
I wanted to exploit this a bit. I currently have a non drilled 125 that's also using a successful PVC weir (4 inch weir and 1 inch feed tube) for about 2 years this June. Its only noisy when my ATO isn't doing it's job. While I have no qualms with my PVC other then that thought in the back of my head with all the horror stories (maybe the ugly 4 inch tube from top to bottom is on there also) can you really drill with a fully stocked tank by draining down say 3/4 water height¿ Wouldn't you need to water cool it as you drill (that's a bit messy when likely not on a bare concrete floor)¿ If you had an internal box that is siliconed you would have to wait the setup time (not ideal). I know they sell boxes without the silicone also but if anyone is trying to make the case for drilling I think overcoming OP's fear of a fully stocked tank being drilled (I know I am in that boat too) would be the main point. Just some thoughts, maybe I am reading this thread upside down¡
I'd be strongly concerned that micron glass fragments would seep into the substrate and water column
if I want to put in a bulkhead, what do I buy? Its not something lowes carries in store. Ive used uni-seals for my canister filter but I dont think Id trust that on a tank... lots of forse to push t through, rubber gets brittle over time etc. Id like to bump my setup upto a 75g anyway.
It might be a function of the closed system but the same pipe and just 3/4" pipe gets 550+gph, my hob over flows get nowhere near that.
I wanted to exploit this a bit. I currently have a non drilled 125 that's also using a successful PVC weir (4 inch weir and 1 inch feed tube) for about 2 years this June. Its only noisy when my ATO isn't doing it's job. While I have no qualms with my PVC other then that thought in the back of my head with all the horror stories (maybe the ugly 4 inch tube from top to bottom is on there also) can you really drill with a fully stocked tank by draining down say 3/4 water height¿ Wouldn't you need to water cool it as you drill (that's a bit messy when likely not on a bare concrete floor)¿ If you had an internal box that is siliconed you would have to wait the setup time (not ideal). I know they sell boxes without the silicone also but if anyone is trying to make the case for drilling I think overcoming OP's fear of a fully stocked tank being drilled (I know I am in that boat too) would be the main point. Just some thoughts, maybe I am reading this thread upside down¡
At this point I would just drill your tank. Point being, you don't want to use the "correct" design for the PVC setup... which is basically the same thing as a pre-built HOB overflow except made with PVC. The photos you showed were not the design I have been espousing and talking about.
I would drain the tank all the way and take everything out. Yes you have to use water to cool the bit.
if I want to put in a bulkhead, what do I buy? Its not something lowes carries in store. Ive used uni-seals for my canister filter but I dont think Id trust that on a tank... lots of forse to push t through, rubber gets brittle over time etc. Id like to bump my setup upto a 75g anyway.
It might be a function of the closed system but the same pipe and just 3/4" pipe gets 550+gph, my hob over flows get nowhere near that.
Im just going to drill an empty new (used) tank. My current tank is the biggest one I have, no real back up if something goes wrong, and Im pretty sure drilling a 10g is not even worthwhile practice... too thin
EDIT: drilling into glass is a terrifying idea
Find a box that has the flow rate you need.
ok thanks, Im still going to make the box itself.
Follow up questions: Do normal pvc pipes just slip into the bulkhead like a uniseal bulk head or do I need an attachments?
Do the bulkheads had some leeway if the hole comes out a little bigger than expected?
Im leaning towards 1.5" for the intake... more than big enough for any flow Id want, and I can easily restrict it to a smaller size... is that a sound plan?
You can get slip or threaded bulkheads. I recommend schedule 80. You want unions on PVC so you can take it apart if need be.