Another DIY overflow advice

Rocks reef

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You can drain it down some and still drill it with water in it.... just saying.
 

Reef-junky

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Let’s look at it this way say we have a brand new tank with no water in it yet and the glass isn’t tempered (most tanks aren’t expected small ones). Out of all the options you have:

HOB
Herbie
Durso
PVC
Bean Animal


You think PVC is the best?

The only reason OP is wanting to do this is because he doesn’t want to drain the tank to drill it. Yes it sucks but it will be the safest most reliable option. An overflow that has no emergency drain as a back up and has to rely on keeping a siphon is not a good option that’s why people came up and started using other overflow types otherwise we would all be using PVC. Yes it may cost more but it’s worth it to have a peace of mind to me. You don’t need to have the external box you know. Do it right the first time and be done with it.

Like I said good luck

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brandon clow

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You can drain it down some and still drill it with water in it.... just saying.

I wanted to exploit this a bit. I currently have a non drilled 125 that's also using a successful PVC weir (4 inch weir and 1 inch feed tube) for about 2 years this June. Its only noisy when my ATO isn't doing it's job. While I have no qualms with my PVC other then that thought in the back of my head with all the horror stories (maybe the ugly 4 inch tube from top to bottom is on there also) can you really drill with a fully stocked tank by draining down say 3/4 water height¿ Wouldn't you need to water cool it as you drill (that's a bit messy when likely not on a bare concrete floor)¿ If you had an internal box that is siliconed you would have to wait the setup time (not ideal). I know they sell boxes without the silicone also but if anyone is trying to make the case for drilling I think overcoming OP's fear of a fully stocked tank being drilled (I know I am in that boat too) would be the main point. Just some thoughts, maybe I am reading this thread upside down¡
 

Hermie

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I wanted to exploit this a bit. I currently have a non drilled 125 that's also using a successful PVC weir (4 inch weir and 1 inch feed tube) for about 2 years this June. Its only noisy when my ATO isn't doing it's job. While I have no qualms with my PVC other then that thought in the back of my head with all the horror stories (maybe the ugly 4 inch tube from top to bottom is on there also) can you really drill with a fully stocked tank by draining down say 3/4 water height¿ Wouldn't you need to water cool it as you drill (that's a bit messy when likely not on a bare concrete floor)¿ If you had an internal box that is siliconed you would have to wait the setup time (not ideal). I know they sell boxes without the silicone also but if anyone is trying to make the case for drilling I think overcoming OP's fear of a fully stocked tank being drilled (I know I am in that boat too) would be the main point. Just some thoughts, maybe I am reading this thread upside down¡

I'd be strongly concerned that micron glass fragments would seep into the substrate and water column
 

brandon clow

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I'd be strongly concerned that micron glass fragments would seep into the substrate and water column

I am not sure how that would break down in the water column (if it even does to some degree). I suppose its from whenever the bit starts to cut through the other side until completion. I was tempted to copy Melev's DIY box on his site also but never got around to it.
 
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if I want to put in a bulkhead, what do I buy? Its not something lowes carries in store. Ive used uni-seals for my canister filter but I dont think Id trust that on a tank... lots of forse to push t through, rubber gets brittle over time etc. Id like to bump my setup upto a 75g anyway.

It might be a function of the closed system but the same pipe and just 3/4" pipe gets 550+gph, my hob over flows get nowhere near that.
 
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Hermie

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if I want to put in a bulkhead, what do I buy? Its not something lowes carries in store. Ive used uni-seals for my canister filter but I dont think Id trust that on a tank... lots of forse to push t through, rubber gets brittle over time etc. Id like to bump my setup upto a 75g anyway.

It might be a function of the closed system but the same pipe and just 3/4" pipe gets 550+gph, my hob over flows get nowhere near that.

At this point I would just drill your tank. Point being, you don't want to use the "correct" design for the PVC setup... which is basically the same thing as a pre-built HOB overflow except made with PVC. The photos you showed were not the design I have been espousing and talking about.
 

Reef-junky

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I wanted to exploit this a bit. I currently have a non drilled 125 that's also using a successful PVC weir (4 inch weir and 1 inch feed tube) for about 2 years this June. Its only noisy when my ATO isn't doing it's job. While I have no qualms with my PVC other then that thought in the back of my head with all the horror stories (maybe the ugly 4 inch tube from top to bottom is on there also) can you really drill with a fully stocked tank by draining down say 3/4 water height¿ Wouldn't you need to water cool it as you drill (that's a bit messy when likely not on a bare concrete floor)¿ If you had an internal box that is siliconed you would have to wait the setup time (not ideal). I know they sell boxes without the silicone also but if anyone is trying to make the case for drilling I think overcoming OP's fear of a fully stocked tank being drilled (I know I am in that boat too) would be the main point. Just some thoughts, maybe I am reading this thread upside down¡

I would drain the tank all the way and take everything out. Yes you have to use water to cool the bit.
 
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At this point I would just drill your tank. Point being, you don't want to use the "correct" design for the PVC setup... which is basically the same thing as a pre-built HOB overflow except made with PVC. The photos you showed were not the design I have been espousing and talking about.

I can come close to your design, but its a one shot deal with the parts I have. And youre 100% right Id need clear overflow pipes to be certain Im not going to have a disaster on my hands. Bulkheads are going to be easier than matchng something functional with the parts I have.
 
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I would drain the tank all the way and take everything out. Yes you have to use water to cool the bit.

Im just going to drill an empty new (used) tank. My current tank is the biggest one I have, no real back up if something goes wrong, and Im pretty sure drilling a 10g is not even worthwhile practice... too thin

EDIT: drilling into glass is a terrifying idea
 

Reef-junky

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if I want to put in a bulkhead, what do I buy? Its not something lowes carries in store. Ive used uni-seals for my canister filter but I dont think Id trust that on a tank... lots of forse to push t through, rubber gets brittle over time etc. Id like to bump my setup upto a 75g anyway.

It might be a function of the closed system but the same pipe and just 3/4" pipe gets 550+gph, my hob over flows get nowhere near that.

Find a box that has the flow rate you need.

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Reef-junky

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Im just going to drill an empty new (used) tank. My current tank is the biggest one I have, no real back up if something goes wrong, and Im pretty sure drilling a 10g is not even worthwhile practice... too thin

EDIT: drilling into glass is a terrifying idea

More then likely you wouldn’t be able to drill a 10 gal. Most small tanks like that are tempered glass.
 

Reef-junky

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Make your self some kind a guide for the the bit. You need a diamond whole saw bit. The hardware store also carries some.
 
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wickette

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Find a box that has the flow rate you need.

989633C3-3082-4DAB-B785-CA527413EE21.png


439D2338-D21B-4987-8227-A9FD7FBA1BFA.png

ok thanks, Im still going to make the box itself.
Follow up questions: Do normal pvc pipes just slip into the bulkhead like a uniseal bulk head or do I need an attachments?
Im leaning towards 1.5" for the intake... more than big enough for any flow Id want, and I can easily restrict it to a smaller size... is that a sound plan?
 

Reef-junky

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ok thanks, Im still going to make the box itself.
Follow up questions: Do normal pvc pipes just slip into the bulkhead like a uniseal bulk head or do I need an attachments?
Do the bulkheads had some leeway if the hole comes out a little bigger than expected?
Im leaning towards 1.5" for the intake... more than big enough for any flow Id want, and I can easily restrict it to a smaller size... is that a sound plan?

You can get slip or threaded bulkheads. I recommend schedule 80. You want unions on PVC so you can take it apart if need be.
 

burnetb1

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10 gal tanks are not tempered, at least the sides are not. I have successfully drilled 2 ten gal tanks. one cracked and one didnt. I then siliconed another sheet of glass with a hole to the drilled panel to strengthen the side, since the glass on a 10 gal is very thin. both tanks, even the cracked one don't leak.

As far as the overflow question, I would highly recommend drilling the tank. I have a 55 with a HOB overflow that gives me constant anxiety. I've had it for 5 years and I check it every single day. I have had it fail twice a few years ago but have since learned the tricks to dealing with them. They claim the siphon tube wont catch air bubbles at the right flow rate which is correct as long as the tube is clean. Any significant algae buildup will negate this. If your return pump starts spitting out bubbles for any reason, these can accumulate in the siphon and cause it to fail. Also, these siphon overflows tend to make noise if that matters to you.
I will be drilling my tank very shortly and will silicone in an overflow box on the inside and out. My design is to silicone a external box thats the same height as the tank and has 3 bulkheads at the bottom, then silicone in a glass overflow box into my tank and drill two 1.75" holes in the glass with no bulkheads.
 
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You can get slip or threaded bulkheads. I recommend schedule 80. You want unions on PVC so you can take it apart if need be.

Stupid question but will schedule 80 slip bulk head fit schedule 40 pipe. everything i have is schedule 40 or pex.
 

burnetb1

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Yes, schedule 40 and 80 have the same outer diameter which is what fitting use. Hoses and pipes are a little confusing sometimes, but a good rule of thumb is hard pipes use outer diameter and soft pipes us inner diameter.
 

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