Current Quarantine Protocol

[Jay Hemdal]

What about inverts? Specifically wondering about snails. Would it just be 76 days of qurantine without meds? Is 76 days too long?
Also I read wrasses are sensitive to prazipro. Should the same dose be given to them or a reduced dose? Thank you!

76 days is longer isolation time than is needed for invertebrates. If they came from a tank with an active fish disease, holding them in a fishless tank for 60 days is good. If they came from a tank with no apparent diseases, 40 days is fine.

Wrasse are not sensitive to praziquantel if the tank is well aerated with a good air stone.

Jay

 

[alicia24]

76 days is longer isolation time than is needed for invertebrates. If they came from a tank with an active fish disease, holding them in a fishless tank for 60 days is good. If they came from a tank with no apparent diseases, 40 days is fine.

Wrasse are not sensitive to praziquantel if the tank is well aerated with a good air stone.

Jay

Thank you!!

 

[geekengineer]

Do you do the medications copper and praziquantel with inverts as well?

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Do you do the medications copper and praziquantel with inverts as well?

No - there really are not many medications that you use on invertebrates. Some fish medications, like copper, will kill invertebrates. Praziquantel, used to treat fish gill flukes can be used in tank with invertebrates though.

Jay

 

[Superlightman]

Question when the actual quarantine time from my fish is over I will put them in the tank and buy other that I will also have to quarantine, can I add them in the actual quarantine tank or will I have to change all the water and stones? Wich I would prefer to avoid as the quarantine tank is big as a normal tank.
Other question, they are fish that not support cupper and should get a cupper QT? If yes wich ones?

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Question when the actual quarantine time from my fish is over I will put them in the tank and buy other that I will also have to quarantine, can I add them in the actual quarantine tank or will I have to change all the water and stones? Wich I would prefer to avoid as the quarantine tank is big as a normal tank.
Other question, they are fish that not support cupper and should get a cupper QT? If yes wich ones?

You do not need to change the QT - any disease that might be there has already been transferred to your DT when you moved the fish over. In fact, keeping the QT running ensures that the tank is stable biologically, for the next group of fish.

Most fish can tolerate chelated copper (Copperafe and Copper Power). Eels, sharks and rays don't do well in it though. Ionic copper products, like Cupramine and Copper/citric acid have more fish that are sensitive to it.

Jay

 

[Superlightman]

Thanks for the answer.
Are wrasses also sensitive to copper?
Do you know the blue life rapid quarantine product?
Would it be useful to use it before or after the quarantine, or for fish we not have the possibility to QT? It contains also formalin, it is not dangerous for fishes ?

 

[jmichaelh7]

Thanks for the answer.
Are wrasses also sensitive to copper?
Do you know the blue life rapid quarantine product?
Would it be useful to use it before or after the quarantine, or for fish we not have the possibility to QT? It contains also formalin, it is not dangerous for fishes ?

I personally believe wrasse are sensitive . Recently I lost 4 wrasse to copper power.

Before that I lost 2 leopard wrasse. Leopard wrasse for me are impossible to keep as they plummet with copper.

On a positive note all other 12 fish pulled through

 

[dwest]

About 4 years ago, just after the Hanna copper checker came out, I successfully quarantined 4 fairy and one flasher wrasse with copper power. I believe the concentration I used was 2.25 ppm. I felt the copper checker was key.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Thanks for the answer.
Are wrasses also sensitive to copper?
Do you know the blue life rapid quarantine product?
Would it be useful to use it before or after the quarantine, or for fish we not have the possibility to QT? It contains also formalin, it is not dangerous for fishes ?

No - wrasse are not overtly sensitive to chelated copper, but are to ionic products. Even then, they aren’t as sensitive as day, Pygmy angels.

Safety Stop is a pretty high dose formalin dip. I won’t use formalin on recently shipped fish, it is too stressful. You could use it to reduce flukes if you didn’t use praziquantel for them. Formalin is toxic to people also.

Jay

 

[Superlightman]

OK so better avoid copper for wrasses,they seems also not so well with praziquantel when I used it,better do just a fresh water bath?
So for angelfish also I should avoid copper for my loricula, bicolor, navarchus, pygoplites, just fresh water also?

 

[Jay Hemdal]

OK so better avoid copper for wrasses,they seems also not so well with praziquantel when I used it,better do just a fresh water bath?
So for angelfish also I should avoid copper for my loricula, bicolor, navarchus, pygoplites, just fresh water also?

No - sorry if I wasn’t clear - chelated copper (coppersafe or copper power) if dosed properly, is FINE to use with all fish except sharks,rays or eels.

Jay

 

[Superlightman]

No - sorry if I wasn’t clear - chelated copper (coppersafe or copper power) if dosed properly, is FINE to use with all fish except sharks,rays or eels.

Jay

OK but here in Europe I can not find coppersafe or copper power just cuppramine. What can I use then instead for angels and wrasses?

 

[Superlightman]

Would methylene blue be a solution?

 

[Jay Hemdal]

OK but here in Europe I can not find coppersafe or copper power just cuppramine. What can I use then instead for angels and wrasses?

Cupramine can be used, but you need to have a good copper test, like the Hanna, and maintain exactly a 0.50 dose.
Other options include hyposalinity for ich or flukes (but not velvet).
Chloroquine is about as risky as ionic copper, and you may have trouble sourcing that as well.

Jay

 

[Superlightman]

Cupramine can be used, but you need to have a good copper test, like the Hanna, and maintain exactly a 0.50 dose.
Other options include hyposalinity for ich or flukes (but not velvet).
Chloroquine is about as risky as ionic copper, and you may have trouble sourcing that as well.

Jay

Cupramine killed my wrasses during the first days of quarantine even when the other fish improved.
The wrasses were the only one at the beginning that were fine but they not liked the cuppramine.
The other fish for wich cuppramine seemed to do nothing was thr hepathus the cuppramine not make him worse it actually make his breathing better, but then he got more and more white spot during 3 weeks. Then I decided to give this oxydator stuff a shot. And surprisingly every day he improved and after 5 days it was gone, all fish seemed to be more active also and eating same crazy. Don't know if it was just a coincidence but that was thing together with the cupper seemed to work well.

 

[Superlightman]

Does someone know what this anthias has on his gills, it is a white thing. An injury or a parasite, an illness?

 

[Bear Claw]

What ammonia, nitrate, and phosphate levels would cause the need for a water change? I think some of my beneficial bacteria died between use in my QT and I wanted to put more in. Would that be bad during the copper dosing period? I started the copper 2 days ago. Also, do you need to do these dosing timelines for that exact length of time under all circumstances or does the timeline vary with fish and QT size? Thank you! This article is immensely helpful!

 

[Jay Hemdal]

What ammonia, nitrate, and phosphate levels would cause the need for a water change? I think some of my beneficial bacteria died between use in my QT and I wanted to put more in. Would that be bad during the copper dosing period? I started the copper 2 days ago. Also, do you need to do these dosing timelines for that exact length of time under all circumstances or does the timeline vary with fish and QT size? Thank you! This article is immensely helpful!

The critical water quality parameter for quarantine systems is ammonia. That should be kept at less than 0.25 ppm. Nitrite, Nitrate and Phosphate, in any reasonable levels, are of no concern in a quarantine system.

Adding bottled bacteria, or bacteria from an established tank is the best way to overcome ammonia issues in a QT.

What brand of copper are you using?

Jay

 

[Bear Claw]

The critical water quality parameter for quarantine systems is ammonia. That should be kept at less than 0.25 ppm. Nitrite, Nitrate and Phosphate, in any reasonable levels, are of no concern in a quarantine system.

Adding bottled bacteria, or bacteria from an established tank is the best way to overcome ammonia issues in a QT.

What brand of copper are you using?

Jay

I am using copper power. So adding bottled bacteria would not have a negative effect? Would adding some developed media from my DT do the same thing? Thank you!