Dinoflagellates - dinos a possible cure!? Follow along and see!

mcarroll

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I have a lot of hope with this product, I have tried blackouts and dirthy tank method but it dont get any better :(

Nobody ever tries 100% lights on for a day or two.....some dino's get locked into (or was it out of?) their motile phase during perpetual dark, which compromises them.....but others are the opposite and get locked on continuous daylight.

Worth a shot, just watch the tank for signs or when to stop. ;)
 

Lowefx

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Can someone write up a specific thread on the findings of bleach please? Searching thru 245 pages is difficult. Please list all details. Thanks!
 

sowellj

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Out of curiosity, how many folks here started their tanks using all dry rock and dosed bacteria to cycle?

Secondly, for those that have dosed bleach, what prevents the dinos from going dormant and then reemerging, much like what happened with metro/h202/etc. Even if I go the bleach route and it is 100% successful, I am fearful that I still have a 'dino friendly' tank and the next fish/coral I bring in could start the whole process over again.
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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and its a fair concern that those fish w bring in dinos to a dino free tank, the slime matrix is a total vector. I personally don't think its possible to be 100% free of them by design when stocking any tank, only the reaction approach matters and obviously QT where possible. not sure how long they can ride on a vector unexpressed, but fish slime is likely impossible to cleanse of inclusions in a healthy manner and fish are definitely spreading this scourge, high res pics of the action are found at the reefcentral thread started by DNA and currently running, its massive.
 
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Lowefx

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Out of curiosity, how many folks here started their tanks using all dry rock and dosed bacteria to cycle?

Secondly, for those that have dosed bleach, what prevents the dinos from going dormant and then reemerging, much like what happened with metro/h202/etc. Even if I go the bleach route and it is 100% successful, I am fearful that I still have a 'dino friendly' tank and the next fish/coral I bring in could start the whole process over again.
I did. I used dry rock and dry sand. Cycled using Zeovit and still battling it. Current pucs.
20170214_155651.jpg
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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is the hint that its in the bottle bac? Id call fish first

has any tank here w dinos started in the above manner been fish free the whole time (implies hard substrate transfer or accidental LFS tank water contamination if applicable)
 

sowellj

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is the hint that its in the bottle bac? Id call fish first

has any tank here w dinos started in the above manner been fish free the whole time (implies hard substrate only import if applicable)

No that wasn't my intention and don't think that is the source. My thoughts were that a lot of folks now start with dry rock, dry sand, and then cycle using zeobac, mb7, etc. Ironically, this is done to avoid undesirables. My thoughts were that this type of set up could lack biodiversity and create a dino friendly environment.
 

brandon429

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totally agreed. does the team agree Vibrant has the best % success rate? its sure helping with peoples bubble algae issues. the way it caught on for other invaders I was sure hoping for the some dinos feedback for it
 

sowellj

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It seems to be helping lots of people. Unfortunately I was not one of them. Perhaps I should have tried higher doses with increased frequency, but I ran out of the product.
 

Lowefx

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is the hint that its in the bottle bac? Id call fish first

has any tank here w dinos started in the above manner been fish free the whole time (implies hard substrate transfer or accidental LFS tank water contamination if applicable)
Mine was fish free for about 6 weeks. It's 6 months old now
 

domination2580

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The way I understand is that bleach is way more potent to dinos then metro. Metro affects it but it doesn't hit them as hard hence they can form the cyst. When they get hit by bleach it hits them so hard and so far they don't have the time to form a cyst. I started out with dry rock and rinsed old sand. As far as fish go, I believe they need a harder surface to grow on. The slime would not make a suitable foundation for dinos. I could be wrong but that's what I think. I've done multiple transfers with multiple fish and so far I have not gotten any dino growth.
 

brandon429

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There are high res pics of dinos stuck to fish slime matrix, poster DNA has em on his thread at reef central, chem forum, big dino thread. It'll take a little search time to find em, he posted em in 2013

I thought those were the coolest pics of the year at that time... In 2013 nobody has an arsenal against them it was all just lights out and peroxide and dinos still winning

The community made good advances since then!
 

Lowefx

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My current frustration. It's like a dusting on the sand bed. As snails move across it, it doesn't move. I do religious water changes 15-20g per week. 000ppm (changed all cartridges last month.)

120g
Temp 79
Sg 1.026
CA 460
Mg 1420
Kh 8
Potassium-320 (Low I know)
Zeovit sysytem
Bak-5drops Monday and Thursday
Start-.3 ml 2x daily
Cyano clean-5 drops daily
Zolites exchanged 1L on 1/24/17
Lights
2x150w mh 14k phoenix bulbs on 4hr
2x54w t5 ATI super atinic 8hrs
2x54w t5 ATI 1 purple plus 1 coral plus 6hrs
Weekly 15g-20g water change with Reef Crystals
Passive BRS carbon 3 cups, replaced every 2 weeks.
Tank was started in September 2016.
Flow-2x MP40's


Please help, I've tried all recommendations. I need a drastic measure, these diatoms go away at night then get worse during lights on. I need to start dosing amino's and kballance before my corals bleach out.
Feel free to PM me too
20170214_155651.jpg
 

domination2580

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There are high res pics of dinos stuck to fish slime matrix, poster DNA has em on his thread at reef central, chem forum, big dino thread. It'll take a little search time to find em, he posted em in 2013

I thought those were the coolest pics of the year at that time... In 2013 nobody has an arsenal against them it was all just lights out and peroxide and dinos still winning

The community made good advances since then!
I'd love to see them...
 

sowellj

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Just for clarification, you have diatoms or dinoflagellates? Diatoms will typically go away on their own with time. If dinos, its a different matter. People have had some success with the following approaches.
1) Lights out for three days followed by reduced photoperiod
2) Dino X
3) Dosing peroxide
4) no water changes / dirty tank method
5) manual removal where possible
6) dosing metro
7) dosing vibrant
8) dosing bleach

I have not gone the bleach route yet, but have done various combination of the others to no avail. I may end up trying bleach but my concern is that even if I kill 100% of the dinos in the tank, I am just going to be dealing with them again in the future if I have system that is dino friendly. Maybe bleach is a long term viable dosing option, I don't know.

I will say that I have been dosing 30% hydrogen peroxide vs the 3% drug store variety, and it is much more effective. I just don't like it as a long term solution.
 

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