Building a stand and sump

[JoshH]

and the differences would change the cut length of the vertical supports on your drawing. take for example your horizontal front plate and bottom plate, on the drawing you have it listed as 6" for the top and 4" for the bottom giving your vertical support a length (height) of 20" when in actuality it is 5.5" and 3.5" giving you a vertical piece of 21" and not 20"

 

[Be102]

and the differences would change the cut length of the vertical supports on your drawing. take for example your horizontal front plate and bottom plate, on the drawing you have it listed as 6" for the top and 4" for the bottom giving your vertical support a length (height) of 20" when in actuality it is 5.5" and 3.5" giving you a vertical piece of 21" and not 20"

Of course. Thanks for this, honestly I am surprised I have yet to come across anything about this on all the build threads and questions I have asked so far. I guess this is probably a pretty silly question, but how difficult is it to get all the cuts identical? Should I go out and just buy like 15 2x4's and 3 2x6's?

 

[JoshH]

I dont really mean to sound naive, but where exactly on the wood would those dimensions cause the problems? are you saying overall for example if one of my legs was 1/8 in shorter? OR in general? But yeah honestly I am only sure with the following dimensions.

48 length, 24 width, 30 height would be nice I think.. Thats what I have currently for my 65 gallon. Do you think that 30 inches as a height would allow me to have access to the 40b along with a skimmer? I was looking and they seem to be around 22-27 inches high i think.

My apologies I forgot to answer this question, the issue is that if you ask them to cut a 21" long piece they could cut it at 20 7/8" to 21 1/8" so there is no guarantee all your cuts will be 100% exactly what you asked for. which makes them completely useless for this application as you need to be as accurate as possible. Honestly the height itself I'm not 100% sure if it's good or not. As my experience with sump set ups and skimmers themselves is limited. all I can say is with most skimmers you have to take the height plus the height required to remove the cup on top of that and that's the minimum height required for that skimmer

 

[JoshH]

If you have a mitre saw, high quality tape measure and a sharp pencil, Very easy with a little practice. and first you need a list of all the pieces you need to cut, this will guide you through what you need to actually purchase in appopriate length's. And there's no such thing as a silly question, there are TONS of great people in R2R more than happy to answer any questions big or small. If you're experience in building is limited ask any possible questions you can think of and that will help you start out on the right foot. And if I hadn't have brought it out now you would have realized rather quickly when you actually got the lumber

 

[Be102]

If you have a mitre saw, high quality tape measure and a sharp pencil, Very easy with a little practice. and first you need a list of all the pieces you need to cut, this will guide you through what you need to actually purchase in appopriate length's. And there's no such thing as a silly question, there are TONS of great people in R2R more than happy to answer any questions big or small. If you're experience in building is limited ask any possible questions you can think of and that will help you start out on the right foot. And if I hadn't have brought it out now you would have realized rather quickly when you actually got the lumber

Thanks again for the kind words and help. It's really appreciated. Do I have a fairly accurate representation /idea of what i would need for dimensions? I guess I just have to sit down and actually do that little bit of work for all the pieces of wood themselves, and go from there. I do actually own a miter saw and quite a few pencils so I think I will be in good shape. Would you change or add any of the pieces of wood that were suggested? Like the diagram itself? Any experience with choosing the correct screws?

 

[JoshH]

I wouldn't have the store cut your pieces honestly. If you have a decent miter saw you're good to go. If not, Im sure you can prob rent one from a HD or tool supply store.

As far as how much lumber you need, each stud is 8' so just add up all your pieces and divide by 92". ALWAYS purchase 15% overage. If you need 8 studs, buy 11.

For accuracy sake I would like to add, there are 2 common lengths when it comes to 8' 2x4s. Stud grade 2x4s are as stated above 92 5/8". And 8' 2x4s are 96" which is actually 8'. (The reason behind this is an 8' wall has a top and bottom plate. Same as what we discussed earlier they subtract the top and bottom plate and you're left with a 92 5/8" stud) A quick look at the tag at the store will inform you of which ones you are actually looking at.

 

[Be102]

For accuracy sake I would like to add, there are 2 common lengths when it comes to 8' 2x4s. Stud grade 2x4s are as stated above 92 5/8". And 8' 2x4s are 96" which is actually 8'. (The reason behind this is an 8' wall has a top and bottom plate. Same as what we discussed earlier they subtract the top and bottom plate and you're left with a 92 5/8" stud) A quick look at the tag at the store will inform you of which ones you are actually looking at.

Something similar to this http://www.homedepot.com/p/2-in-x-4-in-x-96-in-Premium-Kiln-Dried-Whitewood-Stud-161640/202091220 vs http://www.homedepot.com/p/2-in-x-4...eated-Spruce-Pine-Fir-Lumber-161659/100080482 ? Or am I missing something? Is there some sort of calculator that'll allow me to type in my desired specs and then it will help me work out an actual stand?

 

[JoshH]

Your basics are there it's just a matter of hammering out the details. blues design is very solid and you should have 0 issues strength wise, he used a 2x8 for the top crosser on the front, 2x6 for the outside front and 2x4 for the rest. which is probably a little overkill for what you need but over kill never hurt anyone!

 

[Be102]

Your basics are there it's just a matter of hammering out the details. blues design is very solid and you should have 0 issues strength wise, he used a 2x8 for the top crosser on the front, 2x6 for the outside front and 2x4 for the rest. which is probably a little overkill for what you need but over kill never hurt anyone!

So basically instead of that first frontal bar I was thinking was a 2x6, it was a 2x8, were the two front posts the 2x6's? Sorry I just am trying to visualize what I was missing.

 

[JoshH]

http://m.homedepot.com/p/2-in-x-4-in-x-92-5-8-in-Prime-Whitewood-Stud-569062/202091224

Is stud grade length and below is standard 8'

http://m.homedepot.com/p/2-in-x-4-in-x-96-in-Premium-Kiln-Dried-Whitewood-Stud-161640/202091220

either one is fine it's just important to know what you're purchasing as they are the same price but aren't the same length and might be a problem if you don't have a eye out for it. and to my knowledge there aren't any calculator's you just need a good old fashioned drawing

 

[JoshH]

there, that will help

 

[Be102]

http://m.homedepot.com/p/2-in-x-4-in-x-92-5-8-in-Prime-Whitewood-Stud-569062/202091224

Is stud grade length and below is standard 8'

http://m.homedepot.com/p/2-in-x-4-in-x-96-in-Premium-Kiln-Dried-Whitewood-Stud-161640/202091220

either one is fine it's just important to know what you're purchasing as they are the same price but aren't the same length and might be a problem if you don't have a eye out for it. and to my knowledge there aren't any calculator's you just need a good old fashioned drawing

Once again, thanks. I most likely wouldnt have known the difference and purchased both combinations and then wondered why it wasn't all working out correctly. Is there a specific 2x4 that you would recommend? I know that sounds ridiculous, but it would be helpful to just choose one 'type' and basically go buy 10-15 of them. Along with a 2x8 or 2x6.. like you said, to much strength isn't a problem. I actually intend to just upgrade eventually.. Will the stand have any problems being built not necessarily the same size as my tank? like I didn't really think of it until now really.. Will a sheet of Plywood hold it up if the corners aren't resting exactly on the posts?

 

[Be102]

there, that will help

You are the best. Thats exactly what I was thinking of basically. Thanks again for taking the time to do such a detailed description.

 

[Rick.45cal]

Woodworking can be as simple or as complicated as you want to make it (just like reef keeping). There are guys like me that have strong aversions to mechanical fasteners (short of holding doors on). There's a little part inside my brain that won't let me just screw something together.

(There's nothing wrong with using mechanical fasteners in this instance, us artists always have to make up our own stupid rules to follow).

FWIW, use Titebond II if you are going to use an adhesive. Liquid nails is good stuff, but it isn't a very good wood glue. Titebond II, if you follow the rules for how to properly make glue joints with wood, will provide a joint that is stronger than the wood around it.

 

[Be102]

Woodworking can be as simple or as complicated as you want to make it (just like reef keeping). There are guys like me that have strong aversions to mechanical fasteners (short of holding doors on). There's a little part inside my brain that won't let me just screw something together.

(There's nothing wrong with using mechanical fasteners in this instance, us artists always have to make up our own stupid rules to follow).

FWIW, use Titebond II if you are going to use an adhesive. Liquid nails is good stuff, but it isn't a very good wood glue. Titebond II, if you follow the rules for how to properly make glue joints with wood, will provide a joint that is stronger than the wood around it.

Where exactly would one use the wood glue? Does it get used basically at every connection along with wood screws?

 

[JoshH]

My honest opinion is no. the plywood alone will not hold in the future if it is not supported properly from underneath. what type of upgrade are we talking about here?

 

[Rick.45cal]

I'd personally drill pilot holes and countersink them (so the screw heads don't stand proud of the surface) then liberally apply glue, spread out evenly and screw the parts together. The screws will act as clamps until the glue dries. Take a damp rag and wipe off any glue squeeze out before it dries. After 24 hours it will be fully cured and will be permanent and waterproof. Don't get the wood glue on any surface that you are going to put a finish on, otherwise you will see a spot there! Good luck

 

[Be102]

My honest opinion is no. the plywood alone will not hold in the future if it is not supported properly from underneath. what type of upgrade are we talking about here?

As of right now, i have a 65 gallon tank. 36 x 18 I believe. I guess my question is, will I have problems putting this sized tank onto a stand that is 48x30? Like normally if my tank was being put onto of the 48x30 it would sit basically flush with the posts. As of now, there will be area that the posts aren't under I think..? Unless the cross pieces across the top will handle that problem itself? I don't know if I am just being more confusing or not right now.. lol

 

[JoshH]

and of course you can go and buy a bunch of one length, for me I'm frugal and don't like waste so I will plan out all my pieces before hand and then purchase length's that will limit my waste, personally I will suggest the full 8' 2x4 at 96" for you. they will be the most flexible and you will get the most pieces out of them. for the 2x6 or 8 whichever you go with 8' will do as well

 

[Rick.45cal]

As long as the the plywood top is supported adequately underneath with crossbracing like in his stand, then you will be ok. If you just set your 65 on a piece of 3/4" plywood that is resting on a stand that is much larger, eventually the plywood will sag, gravity will win, and your tank will be a big puddle on your floor.