Building a stand and sump

[Be102]

just replace the 2x4 on the out side over the door with whatever strength is at the top on the front example if you use a 2x6 on the front for the top plate use a 2x6 for the side as well it will also have the benefit of matching the front opening height wise and you'll keep the strength over all

How does this look? I am a little clueless on dimensions for plywood on top, and haven't really thought that far ahead just yet. So to explain whats what.. The two red bars are going to be a 2x8, and the blue front posts will be 2x6s. I think the 2 yellow bars will also be made out of 2x8s as well. All the others are 2x4's I am thinking.. Should I add another post on the side that the door wont be used on?
How does this all look? Sizing and layout wise?

 

[JoshH]

I do but unfortunately its on another "forum" that I recently abandoned due to this one being soooo much better lol.

By the way OP, my stand is 48 1/2"w x 24 1/2"d x 40" high. Sized to fit a 120, or 150 tall.

And I hate to say it but you're going to have to redo the build thread here

 

[Bluefish9]

Why do you need to change the framework at all? Adding a second door is up to how you skin the stand. The framework doesnt need to be altered. I could see if you wanted to slide the sump in through the side of the stand, but with a large front opening like that, the side door is just a bonus, rather than a necessity.

 

[JoshH]

green piece will not be 36" more like 34-5"

 

[Be102]

green piece will not be 36" more like 34-5"

Was unsure if it went the length up, or stopped a few inches short. thanks for this

 

[JoshH]

Why do you need to change the framework at all? Adding a second door is up to how you skin the stand. The framework doesnt need to be altered. I could see if you wanted to slide the sump in through the side of the stand, but with a large front opening like that, the side door is just a bonus, rather than a necessity.

I think he is looking for a full side door which wouldn't be possible with the vertical support in the middle

 

[Be102]

Why do you need to change the framework at all? Adding a second door is up to how you skin the stand. The framework doesnt need to be altered. I could see if you wanted to slide the sump in through the side of the stand, but with a large front opening like that, the side door is just a bonus, rather than a necessity.

From what I am picturing.. is that I wouldn't be able to have a door on these 24 inch side (24 1/2) . Like I could do exactly like your stand. But I don't think that would allow the ability to access a side door. I can only come up with that as a difference between yours and his. Please let me know if I am missing something.

 

[Be102]

I think he is looking for a full side door which wouldn't be possible with the vertical support in the middle

Yes, This is what I was talking about.. Sorry I make some things confusing, I tend to overthink

 

[Bluefish9]

You dont need the support in the middle like mine. I just went overkill. In fact, the main reason they are there was so that I had a good foundation to attach my side cabinets. You dont need them. I'd add one in the middle/rear and use a good header and uprights in the front and call it a day.

 

[redfishbluefish]

Way overbuilt. I thought I had mentioned this in one of the posts you put up......

Tanks up to four foot long, all dimensional lumber is 2 x 4's
Tanks over four feet, the top boards (red and yellow) are 2 x 6's

No center braces needed, no additional bracing needed on the ends.

That's it.

 

[SteveSTL]

Once you start getting into an overall width x depth of 24-1/2 x 48-1/2, you just doubled your cost because now you have to buy full or half sheets of plywood as opposed to 1/4 sheet of pre-cut.

Truth be told, if you're careful and went to Harbor Freight and bought a Kreg knock off, you could make the entire thing out of 1x's. Wood's compressive strength (on end) is measured in the thousands of pounds and when you glue 2 into an L shape, you're multiplying the strength by factors beyond 4.

In other words, you could use 1x2's at the corners with a 1x6 running around the perimeter sitting on top of the 1x2's. Put a piece of 3/4 oak plywood on top, screw it into the 1x6s, plug the holes with dowels. Glue and screw a piece of 3/4" plywood to the bottom and you have your base. Glue and nail plywood to the inside to prevent racking and you have a completely serviceable stand with plenty of room on the inside. If you want to get fancy, run a dado around the inside and inset the plywood into it. Will be stronger and look nicer.

This is 400lbs of walnut slab sitting on top of L shaped piece of oak 3/4" thick, 1 side 5" wide, 1 side 2" wide. The panel at the end prevents racking. No other panels. At one point in time there were 4 of us sitting on it once we got it inside. Some of us aren't tiny so that was over 1000 lbs an we probably could have doubled that.

 

[Be102]

Maybe this will work out better then.. I guess realistically at the end of the day I just could be left with a really sturdy case.. But Maybe these new measurements will be more accurate. From what I am thinking.. I will need

2 2x4 ( 48 1/2) inches long ( orange posts)
2 2x6 (48 1/2) inches long (red posts)
4 2x4 (34 1/2) inches long (green posts)
3 2x4 (21 1/2) inches long ( black posts)
6 2x4 ( 27) inches long ( purple posts)
2 2x6 (27) inches long (possibly an overkill, I understand) will be used in front posts (blue)
2 2x6 (21.5) inches long ( yellow posts, also possibly an overkill)


What would be used for a set of planks that run on the top of the frame? Earlier on I described that the current tank sitting on this stand is a 65 gallon, (36 x 18) so it will not be resting exactly on the posts. I intend to use some sort of plywood for the toping. Preferably not too large considering I haven't really accounted for thickness and whatnot of it.

 

[JoshH]

Steve makes an excellent suggestion, but I feel using 1x anything on a build like this should be left to someone with a little more experience as the wood is a little less forgiving. It is also more expensive than regular 2x4 when you get into the 1x6 sizes. as for the above mentioned issue with going a half inch wider I don't see that as being a huge problem, yes you might have to purchase an extra half sheet. BUT depending on how you trimed the cabinet you might not even have to do that.

Bluefish makes another good point in that it is overkill. I figured you were already aware of this and were still set on it anyway

And I would suggest nothing less than half inch plywood especially seeing as your tank will not be edge to edge

 

[Bluefish9]

Way overbuilt. I thought I had mentioned this in one of the posts you put up......

Tanks up to four foot long, all dimensional lumber is 2 x 4's
Tanks over four feet, the top boards (red and yellow) are 2 x 6's

No center braces needed, no additional bracing needed on the ends.

That's it.

Yes I already mentioned to him that mine was over-built. But I want it that way. I didnt say he had to over build his.

Once you start getting into an overall width x depth of 24-1/2 x 48-1/2, you just doubled your cost because now you have to buy full or half sheets of plywood as opposed to 1/4 sheet of pre-cut.

Steve, the reason for going slightly over 48" and 24" is because a 120 is slightly larger once you consider the black frame that goes around the glass at the top and bottom. If the stand is exactly 48x24 it will be slightly undersized. (Unless he buys an acrylic tank)

 

[JoshH]

I was talking to BE in regards to the overkill, I did notice that you had already mentioned it previously. I don't think I worded my statement properly lol

 

[Bluefish9]

I was talking to BE in regards to the overkill, I did notice that you had already mentioned it previously. I don't think I worded my statement properly lol

I was replying to redfishbluefish anyway lol. But no worries

 

[Be102]

Yes I already mentioned to him that mine was over-built. But I want it that way. I didnt say he had to over build his.





Steve, the reason for going slightly over 48" and 24" is because a 120 is slightly larger once you consider the black frame that goes around the glass at the top and bottom. If the stand is exactly 48x24 it will be slightly undersized. (Unless he buys an acrylic tank)

I am sorry if I am repetitive..and a little slow at learning.. but can you explain what I can do for trying to squeeze in some 2x4s into the top section? Similar to what you did? I kind of assume its something such as just dividing the top as opposed into two sections, but rather 3 going width wise, similar to the black post on the top. I just don't really have an idea on what type of sizing would fit inbetween them? Sorta like how you did it.

 

[Be102]

This is sort of what I am describing. I figured that the sizing inside the framing itself will be around 45 inches? ( 48 - 1 1/2 on each side) so I think that a 2x4 every 15 inches will be a good idea. Not really sure if this angle will be hard to set up and whatnot.. Just seems like it would be a smart idea considering my tank wont be actually resting on the posts. I can possibly even 'overkill' it more by adding either a 2x6 or just reinforce the green bars with even more green bars. Hopefully my messy sketch is still readable. Thanks again for everyone not giving up on me yet

 

[JoshH]

top braces should go the same direction as the black brace

 

[Be102]

top braces should go the same direction as the black brace

The black lines I attempted to draw in were the 'top braces' Are you saying that a diagonal is not necessary? I guess I am torn once again between red's and blue's blue has the stability on top that I feel I will need based on the tank not resting correctly. The green lines were the 'braces' that I was thinking of putting in slanted so to speak. I am not sure if that is an accurate picture of waht I am thinking.. but its close I feel.