Dinoflagellates - dinos a possible cure!? Follow along and see!

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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Donald

In a 4 gallon reef you have the unique advantage of full access, repeat, its low work.

We allow these invaders to set in and then react all the way, that's how each one goes down but yours has a series of intercept points, if it takes more than one repeat to win that means nothing. I had to do valonia a few times to guide it out, they were able to seat in without early removal once in my tank having not seen them on the bottom of a frag.

You can beat dinos in a 4 gallon merely by repeating the rip cleaning which amplifies any booster you are doing such as lights out etc.

consider dunking your rocks in hyposaline water its a known diatoms stressor and it wont do much to purple live rock to dunk it, filtration bacteria still remain.

if you had planted corals on the rocks that precludes HS dunking, then creativity would then use a baster to spot apply the hyposaline water around the frags, still nothing harsh dosed to the water, all repeat work so far.

my reaction to your post was see your reaction work as a series of events not a singular. you could do a punch like a full rip change, go bare bottom until this is fixed, then rock dunk then lights out 3 days and a 1:10 peroxide dose and get this fixed. 4 gallons is easy fix you have the best opportunity in the whole thread for a win, that biomass cannot keep regenerating over and over its finite, energy stores will deplete based on your creativity.

Reef keepers are told by and large to delay with each invasion, start an ID thread, and water changes will spurn the invasion (since they are usually large tanks upwelling nutrients from used sandbeds, agreed) but that delay is critical to big invasions

The first response in a pico is to remove it 100% in the most assertive means possible as soon as you see the first spot, then start the id thread. anything shy of this, any delay means you need more than one catch up pass. we have a special access to utilize such that nothing can sustain an invasion in a pico reef.

for the large tanks where multiple rip cleanings isn't an option, the dosing experiments going on here are gold.
 
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twilliard

twilliard

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1473776251066-786565331.jpg

Still looking good here :)
 

Donaldf973

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I've ripped cleaned this tank 2 times already cleaning everything in bleach and hot water except coral and clown. They were dipped in freshwater with peroxide. Dinos popped up again when I put the clown back in the tank. So I'm treating the nano with a stronger bleach 8% vs 3% with the clown inside this time. I'm just making sure that the o.3 ml every 12 hours isn't too much for my wife's fish.
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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did you go bare bottom for the treatment, just brainstorming removing one of their major sinks its quite the amplifier. always quite the challenge if you have the rough strains which sounds like are there

can you post pics after the rebound curious to see where they locate and where they do not. surprised they'd grow back as fast in dark too, at least there are a few changeups left to incorporate into the forced compliance. the sandbed would be helpful to alter
 
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twilliard

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I've ripped cleaned this tank 2 times already cleaning everything in bleach and hot water except coral and clown. They were dipped in freshwater with peroxide. Dinos popped up again when I put the clown back in the tank. So I'm treating the nano with a stronger bleach 8% vs 3% with the clown inside this time. I'm just making sure that the o.3 ml every 12 hours isn't too much for my wife's fish.
Dinoflagellates are easily transferred as they are unseen by the eye in single cells.
 

Donaldf973

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After reading this whole thread i completely agree thats why I started dosing with a stronger bleach and this time ride it out for at least 3 weeks
 

Africangrey

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I've ripped cleaned this tank 2 times already cleaning everything in bleach and hot water except coral and clown. They were dipped in freshwater with peroxide. Dinos popped up again when I put the clown back in the tank. So I'm treating the nano with a stronger bleach 8% vs 3% with the clown inside this time. I'm just making sure that the o.3 ml every 12 hours isn't too much for my wife's fish.

I am also ready to start over with my 100 gal system, , after transferring live stock (1 rabbit and 2 percs and a cleaner shrimp) to a holding tank. would dumping 1 gal of clorox to 100g system enough to nuke the system. How long should I let bleach soak in the system for. would this have any negative effect to the respiratory system of dog and human from the bleach and from dino toxin?
What should I do after draining the bleach treated water, fill the tank with fresh water or wipe the whole tank with vinegar?
I have indo (Bima) live rocks transshipped directly from LA, will cure those rocks in a kiddie pool for 2-3 months to have microfauna the chance to populate before restart, what do you guys think of this strategy.
 

Reeferhigh

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One thing after another. So still battling away with the Cyano Lyngya. But can someone please identify these guys for me. Another pest algae which looks similar to Dino's in the tank. However they are a triangle shape and dont move under the scope. Sorry these are the best pictures I could get with my phone.

IMG_1170_zpselkk7leo.jpg
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CJBuckeyes

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I just wanted to share an update on my bleach dosing. As a reminder to my post a page back, my system is fallow and became quickly overrun with dinos when I was treating for cyano. I lost both my cleaner shrimp early into dosing with H202. Once I started dosing with bleach (6ml / 80 gals total system, 8%), all dinos were gone from my rocks within 2 days. It's been 6 days now, and the dinos on the glass and sand bed are slowly receding. I have vacuumed 80% off the sand, but am afraid to scrape the glass until they die. So far the only side effect of the bleach dosing: I nuked my pod population almost instantly. My crabs, bristle worms, snails, sps, and clam are still alive. In fact my clam is thriving.

To echo @twilliard, bleach kills dinos. It was very effective in getting rid of most within a few days, but waiting to see how long it takes to clear the remainder. One very minor side effect was killing off all my pods.
 

Donaldf973

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Today is day 5 dosing 0.3 ml every 12 hours dinos are 90% gone visibly. Have some extremely small bubble spots here and there nothing too crazy like before. I'm going to continue dosing for a month which should hopefully end this crap
 

Donaldf973

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Was wo dering if dosing bleach drives nitrate through the roof cause my source water is distilled and is zero for trate and phos and dosing bleach has caused my nitrate to skyrocket to 80ppm on nano and 100 on 20 long. Also im feeding barely a pinch every other day of flake in the nano so its not the food
 
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twilliard

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Was wo dering if dosing bleach drives nitrate through the roof cause my source water is distilled and is zero for trate and phos and dosing bleach has caused my nitrate to skyrocket to 80ppm on nano and 100 on 20 long. Also im feeding barely a pinch every other day of flake in the nano so its not the food
That would be due to the breakdown and death of organic matter. Watch your ammonia levels as extended dosing will kill all the bacteria.
 

Donaldf973

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I was wondering if I should removed activated carbon as I've read it's very effective at removing chlorine/bleach from water
 

RMS18

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3 month update I think... maybe more.
Dinos are gone (to the eye) I'm sure they are in my system but the balance of the system is in check. I removed affected areas of the sand daily and replaced fresh with fresh water. I used Doc. Tims live bacteria 3 doses in total, stopped with any nitrate dosing. Only feed live foods and live plankton. Also added 10k pods in total, the dinos wiped out my pod population. Glad to say I have a very healthy pod population now. Tank is doing very well.

I tried to bleach and lost live stock including 2 sea fans, 1 rbta, and 1 frogspawn. High end corals such as rainbow acan, pinwheel plate and some zoas lost color. The plate coral looked dead no color, no tenticles. I did save the plate and it's about 90% back. The acans are getting their colors back but very slowly. Bleach did not work well for me.



Before
18a5903e0e9445f6d63976da438ebb59.jpg


Present Day
162c436df4ee3f1eb4ccee3a6ff50e9d.jpg
 

Steadyreef42

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3 month update I think... maybe more.
Dinos are gone (to the eye) I'm sure they are in my system but the balance of the system is in check. I removed affected areas of the sand daily and replaced fresh with fresh water. I used Doc. Tims live bacteria 3 doses in total, stopped with any nitrate dosing. Only feed live foods and live plankton. Also added 10k pods in total, the dinos wiped out my pod population. Glad to say I have a very healthy pod population now. Tank is doing very well.

I tried to bleach and lost live stock including 2 sea fans, 1 rbta, and 1 frogspawn. High end corals such as rainbow acan, pinwheel plate and some zoas lost color. The plate coral looked dead no color, no tenticles. I did save the plate and it's about 90% back. The acans are getting their colors back but very slowly. Bleach did not work well for me.



Before
18a5903e0e9445f6d63976da438ebb59.jpg


Present Day
162c436df4ee3f1eb4ccee3a6ff50e9d.jpg

I've also tried a natural approach different from yours but with similar results my Dinos have reduced . I've tried peroxide and lost coral and I'm sure microfauna. Ultimately I'm hoping my tank can find a balance even with Dinos still in the tank . These dinoflagellates sure are something else especially when some things work for others and some things don't .
 

Making themselves at home: Have you intentionally done anything in your aquarium to enhance the natural behavior of your fish?

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