Instant ways to kill ich and velvet

Jay Hemdal

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Will this get rid of the copper? I am curious.
To the extent of removing all the copper in solution, yes. If there is copper bound in the sand and rocks, it becomes more difficult. Filling the tank with FW and dropping the pH to around 6 can help dissolve out the bound copper. You test the rinse water before and after to see if copper is being latched out. Multiple treatments are sometimes needed.
Jay
 

vetteguy53081

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May want to research a bit more. Strains have been identified that have made it past 76 days so the newer recommendation is 90+. 45 is really gambling
You are way behind times my friend. Quit reading 2015 material and keep up with industry.
 

Shooter6

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You are way behind times my friend. Quit reading 2015 material and keep up with industry.
That is not posting a link to back up your claim! The findings of them living past 45 days has been a recent one, and as of last year was under research, id say your 45 day recommendation is the old info from back in the 80s actually
 

Paul B

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There was one site that mentioned ich was eliminated at a temp of 104F, in under an hour, however I couldn't find anything on this either. If anyone could help it would be greatly appreciated! Thanks so much in advance!
That is an old school remedy we used to use when the hobby started. I didn't invent it, it was Robert Straughn, the "Father of Salt Water fish keeping in the Home".

Another one that I used a few times is Regular Clorox. (no really) One cup of "Regular" Clorox to 50 gallons of water.

(Straughn also came up with that one)

Leave 2 days then eliminate it with chlorine remover and airate for a couple of days.

My fifty year old reef has Clorox treated water in it and the first squid eggs that hatched out in captivity were in Clorox treated water.

I used to in the beginning to eliminate thousands of tiny bristle worms. The Chlorine evaporates and whatever is left in the water doesn't seem to hurt anything. I probably did it 3 or 4 times.

O also know that none of you will do that because it sounds terrible and old school. But I don't have any problems with it and I used to treat all my NSW with it when I used to care about parasites. :)

(I think it's in my book but I forget)

"Regular" Clorox must be used, no scents or easy pour
 
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vetteguy53081

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That is not posting a link to back up your claim! The findings of them living past 45 days has been a recent one, and as of last year was under research, id say your 45 day recommendation is the old info from back in the 80s actually
As a person who owned a pet store for many years not to mention the number of trade shows and conventions and seminars I attend, this was Just discussed in November and was determined through research that fallow periods for all diseases is determined by the longest known time period that the encysted stage can survive on corals, inverts, rocks, substrate without a fish host to feed on. The fallow period starts when the last fish is removed from the tank.
These are now the Industry standards
  • Black ich (turbellarian worms) - 4 weeks
  • Brooklynella aka “Clownfish disease” or “Brook” - 6 weeks
  • Flukes (monogenean worms) - 4 weeks
  • Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans) - 6 weeks IF 27C/80.6F can be continuously maintained
  • Uronema marinum - No fallow period, as it does not require a fish host to survive. It is an opportunistic parasite that strikes when a fish’s immune system has been compromised. Uronema mainly affects damsels (especially chromis) and clownfish.
  • Velvet (Amyloodinium) - 6 weeks
smh3.GIF
 

Shooter6

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That is an old school remedy we used to use when the hobby started. I didn't invent it, it was Robert Straughn, the "Father of Salt Water fish keeping in the Home".
Yeah that was a carry over from fw, that raising temp to kill it, I dont think anyone really did the 104, I remember people going to 85 though.
 

Shooter6

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As a person who owned a pet store for many years not to mention the number of trade shows and conventions and seminars I attend, this was Just discussed in November and was determined through research that fallow periods for all diseases is determined by the longest known time period that the encysted stage can survive on corals, inverts, rocks, substrate without a fish host to feed on. The fallow period starts when the last fish is removed from the tank.
These are now the Industry standards
  • Black ich (turbellarian worms) - 4 weeks
  • Brooklynella aka “Clownfish disease” or “Brook” - 6 weeks
  • Flukes (monogenean worms) - 4 weeks
  • Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans) - 6 weeks IF 27C/80.6F can be continuously maintained
  • Uronema marinum - No fallow period, as it does not require a fish host to survive. It is an opportunistic parasite that strikes when a fish’s immune system has been compromised. Uronema mainly affects damsels (especially chromis) and clownfish.
  • Velvet (Amyloodinium) - 6 weeks
smh3.GIF
And you left out the fact that any anaerobic area can blow that out of the water so to say. Keeping pet shops does not make anyone an expert, hell I worked in a fish store back in the late 80s, but that doesn't make me one either. Hell not very long ago, I got in am argument with a local fish store owner, who is a marine biologists, who states phosphate and nitrate should be zero in a reef.

Now gambling on 45 days vs going a full 96 is your choice, BUT going the full 96 is absolutely has a greater chance of success over trying for the bare minimum! You have to admit this, if your being honest. Some people like going through life doing the bare minimum, I personally do not and do not advocate others do either!
 

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Not as far as I know, please link this write off,
 

Shooter6

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You did catch the part about anaerobic areas prolonging the life cycles? Again 45days is shooting for the bare minimum which is always gambling. I don't advocate anyone shoot for the bare minimum as that leads to failure more often then not. If 45 days is bare minimum, 96 days the platinum, which do you think failure is more likely to occur at.
 

vetteguy53081

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And you left out the fact that any anaerobic area can blow that out of the water so to say. Keeping pet shops does not make anyone an expert, hell I worked in a fish store back in the late 80s, but that doesn't make me one either. Hell not very long ago, I got in am argument with a local fish store owner, who is a marine biologists, who states phosphate and nitrate should be zero in a reef.

Now gambling on 45 days vs going a full 96 is your choice, BUT going the full 96 is absolutely has a greater chance of success over trying for the bare minimum! You have to admit this, if your being honest. Some people like going through life doing the bare minimum, I personally do not and do not advocate others do either!
Well after 37 years I have a good clue.
Tell you what - you do the 96- 150 days or what you feel is right and I will do what I know works. By the way , it appears that you like to argue. I agree with biologists that you dont need high level NO3 and no4.
I run Phos at .0221 and nitrate last night was .414

This is what I have with those readings.

600g progress j.jpg
600g progress l.jpg
660g 3.30d.jpg
660g 9.1e.jpg
660g 3.30a.jpg
 

Jay Hemdal

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Not as far as I know, please link this write off,

Even Humblefish, the person who originally advocated for the 76 day period (based on that one study by Colorini) has backed off on this extreme, and agrees that the period can be shorter at higher temperatures.

History here:

Biosecurity essay here:

There is no evidence that Cryptocaryon tomonts can survive longer than 76 days - and at that, it was seen one time, in a xeric culture at low temperatures. Time and time again, when we track down cases of reinfection we see things like: all I added was some CUC, or I have multiple tanks in the same room, or they did NOT properly quarantine the new fish that they added to their fallowed tank (this is the biggest biosecurity breach),


Jay
 

Shooter6

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Well after 37 years I have a good clue.
Tell you what - you do the 96- 150 days or what you feel is right and I will do what I know works. By the way , it appears that you like to argue. I agree with biologists that you dont need high level NO3 and no4.
I run Phos at .0221 and nitrate last night was .414

This is what I have with those readings.

600g progress j.jpg
600g progress l.jpg
660g 3.30d.jpg
660g 9.1e.jpg
660g 3.30a.jpg
I dont like false info being spread to new reefers, setting them up for failure. I also have been reef keeping since 1988. Current 400g display 700g total system is just frags now, but my previous 180g display 270g display was growing out until the texas freeze.
Your nitrate and phosphate are not zero! But beautiful soft coral display, ive not kept a softy since 99' more of an sps keeper myself.
 

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vetteguy53081

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I dont like false info being spread to new reefers, setting them up for failure. I also have been reef keeping since 1988. Current 400g display 700g total system is just frags now, but my previous 180g display 270g display was growing out until the texas freeze.
Your nitrate and phosphate are not zero! But beautiful soft coral display, ive not kept a softy since 99' more of an sps keeper myself.
While your tank is beautiful itself. you dont know me from Adam and to insinuate that I am giving false readings takes a lot of nerve. Sorry but you are another disrespectful reefer that I want nothing to do with. Good luck in your endeavors. You are now blocked from my conversations.
 

Shooter6

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While your tank is beautiful itself. you dont know me from Adam and to insinuate that I am giving false readings takes a lot of nerve. Sorry but you are another disrespectful reefer that I want nothing to do with. Good luck in your endeavors. You are now blocked from my conversations.
Peace out lol
 

Lavey29

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While your tank is beautiful itself. you dont know me from Adam and to insinuate that I am giving false readings takes a lot of nerve. Sorry but you are another disrespectful reefer that I want nothing to do with. Good luck in your endeavors. You are now blocked from my conversations.
He was just debating the topic with you and expressing his opinion albeit in a direct manner. Did not appear he used explicit language to be disrespectful to you but offered his own theory. If you post 45 days then technically you are insinuating he is posting false info with his 90 plus day recommendation. In the end each tank and situation is unique and a reefer will have to determine what his best course of action is and learn from the experience.

I actually appreciate guys like you and shooter 6 with multi decades of experience sharing your knowledge and reefing skills for us novice reefers to learn.
 

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