I am on ORCA but not a member was planning on paying my dues this week but got laid off instead. Cant justify paying them with no job.
Reefingbuddha's 300 DD
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I am on ORCA but not a member was planning on paying my dues this week but got laid off instead. Cant justify paying them with no job.
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The 3 yellow tangs arrived, drip acclimated, inspected for any visible injuries or signs of distress or disease. All was well so they were introduced. Right now they are swimming around the tank with the sailfin and scopas tangs checking it out.
Some new videos from today.
YouTube - Four tangs hanging out
YouTube - New additions
YouTube - New fish added - tangs all here
Some new videos from today.
YouTube - Four tangs hanging out
YouTube - New additions
YouTube - New fish added - tangs all here
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Received the PM1 upgrade to the Apex controller today so I can finally start up my calcium reactor. Currently running it off the apex for pH control set between 6.5-6.9 (a little higher then recommend by deltec) for now until I can judge the effects on the media, use the litermeter to feed it, and a electronic solenoid on a 20lbs CO2 tank at 2 bps.
I currently have the litermeter off for 24 hours to let the pH get to the right level in the reactor and then I'll test the effluent.
I also finished off my topoff system today. I have a "RO_Tank_High" and "RO_Tank_Low" as two float switches at the top and bottom of the 55g top off tank. The float switches tell the controller when to open and close a solenoid that is installed after the pre-filter of my RO unit. There is also a attached float switch at the RO output that will shutdown the RO system via back-pressure if the "RO_Tank_High" float valve or the RO_solenoid would happen to fail.
There is a 1.5" line between the RO tank and the Waterchange tank with a ball valve half way down it that allows me to gravity feed the waterchange tank. Right above the ball valve is a Tee fitting with a 1/2" thread output that a 1/2 to 1/4" JG fitting is attached too. There are then two solenoids in series attached to the same electrical supply in case one fails. This 1/4" line feeds into the kalk stirrer which gravity flows back to the mixing tank. The two solenoids are controller via two float switches in the sump, "Sump_High" and "Add_Water". If "Add_water" is on then the solenoids come on. If "Add_water" is off then the solenoids turn off. If "Sump_high" is on the solenoids turn off and a alarm is sound and email/text sent. The solenoids are further controller by the pH probe in the sump. If the tank pH reaches 8.4 the feed to the kalk reactor is cut off. The next step is to add another solenoid that kicks in if "Add_water" is on and the tank pH is above 8.4. This solenoid would bypass the kalk reactor and allow straight RO/DI water to top-off the tank.
If both solenoids happen to fail somehow there is only about 5 gallons that can drain from the RO tank at any one time before the siphon breaks.
If anyone sees any flaws in my reasoning please let me know. So far everything is working find. I tested all contingencies and everything works as described above. The tank pH has been between 8.28 and 8.35 for 4 days now, up from 7.94-8.2 without the kalk reactor.
I currently have the litermeter off for 24 hours to let the pH get to the right level in the reactor and then I'll test the effluent.
I also finished off my topoff system today. I have a "RO_Tank_High" and "RO_Tank_Low" as two float switches at the top and bottom of the 55g top off tank. The float switches tell the controller when to open and close a solenoid that is installed after the pre-filter of my RO unit. There is also a attached float switch at the RO output that will shutdown the RO system via back-pressure if the "RO_Tank_High" float valve or the RO_solenoid would happen to fail.
There is a 1.5" line between the RO tank and the Waterchange tank with a ball valve half way down it that allows me to gravity feed the waterchange tank. Right above the ball valve is a Tee fitting with a 1/2" thread output that a 1/2 to 1/4" JG fitting is attached too. There are then two solenoids in series attached to the same electrical supply in case one fails. This 1/4" line feeds into the kalk stirrer which gravity flows back to the mixing tank. The two solenoids are controller via two float switches in the sump, "Sump_High" and "Add_Water". If "Add_water" is on then the solenoids come on. If "Add_water" is off then the solenoids turn off. If "Sump_high" is on the solenoids turn off and a alarm is sound and email/text sent. The solenoids are further controller by the pH probe in the sump. If the tank pH reaches 8.4 the feed to the kalk reactor is cut off. The next step is to add another solenoid that kicks in if "Add_water" is on and the tank pH is above 8.4. This solenoid would bypass the kalk reactor and allow straight RO/DI water to top-off the tank.
If both solenoids happen to fail somehow there is only about 5 gallons that can drain from the RO tank at any one time before the siphon breaks.
If anyone sees any flaws in my reasoning please let me know. So far everything is working find. I tested all contingencies and everything works as described above. The tank pH has been between 8.28 and 8.35 for 4 days now, up from 7.94-8.2 without the kalk reactor.
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the hippos are weird for sure, mine hides in the branches of my digi. It actually hid in there and and got moved from the 125 to the 240 in there without me knowing :O whoops
haha. I remember when I had my first hippo and she had some ich. I was stratching my head for the longest time trying to figure out how I could catch her in a heavily stocked 120g with WAY to much rock and coral. Until I tried and realized I just needed to remove the rock she jammed herself into.
Interesting survival tactic. I don't notice any other tangs doing that.
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Getting there slowly but surely. Thanks for the encouragement.
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For now!
I am already struggling to keep it all clean and organized. Wonder what its going to look like 6 months from now once I get a little lazy!
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Got a 12" strip of 435nm (i think) LED lights from Ecoxotic. I think its from their panorama series. It pulls 13w and its being used for moonlights. This this is bright and the florescent it brings out is awesome. I attached it to the side of one of the t5 fixtures, dead middle in the tank. The end result is a fairly bright nightlight like that is deep blue.
I had originally considered getting three of them but this one seems like plenty. It is set to run all day and is off for 5 hours between 11pm and 4 am.
All 14 fish are alive and thriving. Both shrimp have molted already since I added them to the tank.
I had a little issue with some of them not eating mypsis but that was solved by feeding live brine shrimp for a day. The next day they all went nuts for the mypsis and chomped it down.
I had originally considered getting three of them but this one seems like plenty. It is set to run all day and is off for 5 hours between 11pm and 4 am.
All 14 fish are alive and thriving. Both shrimp have molted already since I added them to the tank.
I had a little issue with some of them not eating mypsis but that was solved by feeding live brine shrimp for a day. The next day they all went nuts for the mypsis and chomped it down.
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Good seeing you too. Looking forward to trying my first SPS in this tank! Thanks again bro.
Here's proof of time, 02/21/2010
I made a significant new addition. Anyone want to guess what it is? Its really subtle on the left side of the tank.
YouTube - Untitled
Here's proof of time, 02/21/2010
I made a significant new addition. Anyone want to guess what it is? Its really subtle on the left side of the tank.
YouTube - Untitled
SunnyX
ReefSite.com
Great looking setup! I swore I would never do an in-wall tank again, but your system has me contemplating it.
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Proof of life - 2/26/2010
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_uJaGMTITU[/youtube]
I tweaked the rock work a little. There are two more videos up on youtube if your interested.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_uJaGMTITU[/youtube]
I tweaked the rock work a little. There are two more videos up on youtube if your interested.
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Thanks!
Its a 300 Deep Dimension. Its 72" Long, 36" Wide, and 27" Deep.
It has been 11 days since I added any fish so yesterday I added 8 bartlett anthias and another little surprise I'm going to hold off revealing until I can get a decent picture of him.
Its a 300 Deep Dimension. Its 72" Long, 36" Wide, and 27" Deep.
It has been 11 days since I added any fish so yesterday I added 8 bartlett anthias and another little surprise I'm going to hold off revealing until I can get a decent picture of him.
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