Best Hurricane Backup Solution?

VintageReefer

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What’s the watt load of your gear?

If the dc power head is 50w max and you use it at 50% then your using 25w

Best way to figure it out is to charge it fully. Plug your return pump and power head in. Then unplug the power station from the wall. It will tell you the watts being used and the runtime

CF2BA044-C6BF-4CC1-87A8-6304F922E90D.jpeg
 
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aaron186

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What’s the watt load of your gear?

If the dc power head is 50w max and you use it at 50% then your using 25w

Best way to figure it out is to charge it fully. Plug your return pump and power head in. Then unplug the power station from the wall. It will tell you the watts being used and the runtime

CF2BA044-C6BF-4CC1-87A8-6304F922E90D.jpeg
IMG_2049.png

It looks like one of my return pumps is pulling 19 watts (the Cor 20). Per apex my Cor15 is only pulling 15 watts but it pulls power from my apex directly and is required to be on to work so I probably can’t use that one during outage.

I have two MP40s that are pulling a total of 14 watts together. Those are already connected to the ecotech battery I have but I have no idea how long they will run as the life of battery dwindles (I diy replaced it a year ago and haven’t had extended outages). The pumps run at 36% during normal time. Ecotech advertises run power is 9 to 36watts for what that’s worth.

I have 4 Maxspect gyres that pull a total of 35 watts with all 4 running. 2 smaller ones at 80% and two large ones at 30%. I can probably get by with these off. Maxspect advertises 35 watts on the smaller xf330 and 52 watts on the larger xf350. Each controller has 2 powerheads plugged in. Looks like apex powerbar says all 4 are only pulling 35 watts currently though.

Im thinking at a bare minimum I can run the MP40s and 1 return pump off the newly purchased power station until I can get the gas generator going - 33 watts per apex. I work at a hospital and will likely be heading in immediately after all clear is given. If this backup battery works well I’m going to bring it to hospital and charge it while I’m working so that I can plug it in during generator down times or if I have trouble getting gas.
 

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Formula for runtime needs to factor for:

Watt hours of the battery system

Energy needed to run the battery system itself - the screen, fans, inverter to convert dc battery power to ac power (typically a multiple of .85 represents this)

Watts from end devices

The rough formula is

(Watts hours x .85) / end device watt load

So the battery station is 1008 wh
Our efficiency is guesstimated at 85%
And your watt load is ??? 14 + 19 = 33w?

So

(1008 x .85) / 33 = Roughly 25.9 hours

do you plan to remove the mp40’s and return pump from the apex bar and plug them into the battery station directly ? That’s the only way to get full automated backup of them in a power outage
 
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aaron186

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Formula for runtime needs to factor for:

Watt hours of the battery system

Energy needed to run the battery system itself - the screen, fans, inverter to convert dc battery power to ac power (typically a multiple of .85 represents this)

Watts from end devices

The rough formula is

(Watts hours x .85) / end device watt load

So the battery station is 1008 wh
Our efficiency is guesstimated at 85%
And your watt load is ??? 14 + 19 = 33w?

So

(1008 x .85) / 33 = Roughly 25.9 hours

do you plan to remove the mp40’s and return pump from the apex bar and plug them into the battery station directly ? That’s the only way to get full automated backup of them in a power outage
Thanks. Yea I’m just going to pull the plug out and plug those in directly. The power station has a dc port. Should I buy new dc cables and just plug them into it directly? Or plug the ac cord into the battery?
 

Badblackdog

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If no one has mentioned it yet a UPS (uninterrupted power supply, like a big battery) could be a good option
That’s what I use until I need to break out the generator. Please excuse the cable management. I need to tighten that up.
IMG_5896.jpeg
 

VintageReefer

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Thanks. Yea I’m just going to pull the plug out and plug those in directly. The power station has a dc port. Should I buy new dc cables and just plug them into it directly? Or plug the ac cord into the battery?

Dc cable would be more efficient but I need to have the device in hand to see the settings. A few people complained the unit disables the dc port after 15 min of watt load <5w or something like that. The reviews mention it. But other reviews say there is a setting in the app to disable this. As with anything, reviews could be from competent or incompetent people.

Soo without having the unit to see for myself I’m not sure what to say. yes powering dc devices via dc is more efficient for the system as it eliminates the need to run the inverter. If the devices are always plugged in via dc and watt load is over 5w I think it’s a non issue. The complainers were running camping fridges that come on and off and found the station powers off when the compressor wasn’t running
 

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I have a gas generator and use a gentent during storms. Keeps rain and snow out of electronics and I think it was like 75mph wind. Costs about $150. Been using APC UPS for pumps which gives me a few hours to set up the generator. Also use battery air stones that come on for 24-30 hours or something when power goes off when plugged into an outlet. Whole house backup for me was quoted $16k for a 20kW so I’m passing on that.
I use a Honda 2200 during outages for reef tank, fridge etc. I really like the Gentent idea. I run the generator in the pool enclosure under an aluminum roof. The extra layer of protection from the gentent would offer some additional peace of mind.
 

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thedon986

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If you have natural gas service, a whole house stand-by natural gas generator is probably your best choice. I have solar, but that is what I would choose if we got frequent power outages. The ROI on adding $15k in batteries is just not there when I could add the generator for half that and you get power indefinitely as long as natural gas service is on, rather than being dependent on whether you get enough sun and/or your solar array can recharge the batteries enough during the day.

My buddy did a DIY battery for his solar, that is really the only way a battery would be worth it to me, when you can save enough on labor to oversize the battery so you don't have to compromise.
 

dmsc2fs

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I currently have a generator, but as others have mentioned getting gas after a bad storm, or evening running it while still raining is an issue. Ive been looking to add this Anker system. Figure I can start with a few thousand dollars and then expand it to add panels later if I want.
I got tired of keeping gas on hand and stable. You could look at the same path I took for cheaper than that Anker. Sell off your current generator and buy a dual-fuel one.


Or if you have natural gas like @thedon986 mentioned you could look at Tri-Fuel
Now I store 4 30lb tanks and have 2 20lb tanks for my blackstone. If needed I can hunt for both gasoline or propane after an event. The propane tanks don't need Stabil added all the time, and/or rotated into my vehicle once a year or so for fresh gas.
 
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VintageReefer

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I currently have a generator, but as others have mentioned getting gas after a bad storm, or evening running it while still raining is an issue. Ive been looking to add this Anker system. Figure I can start with a few thousand dollars and then expand it to add panels later if I want.

It’s a great system but wouldn’t be my top choice



Roughy same price, but slightly higher capacity, includes the panels, and expandable to 24kw instead of 12kw. They make home transfer kits just like the anker system also
 
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BubblesandSqueak

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I use a Honda 2200 during outages for reef tank, fridge etc. I really like the Gentent idea. I run the generator in the pool enclosure under an aluminum roof. The extra layer of protection from the gentent would offer some additional peace of mind.
Yeah, I really like mine. doesn't take long to set it up. if we are getting a big storm, sometimes I'll attach it the night before but just don't add gas. I have a Generac 8500e and will hold 9gal. keep two 5 gallon gas cans now on hand. if we have a big storm coming I just fill the car (25 gallons) and the two cans and add stabil. after a few months I just dump it in the car. too I don't store the gas too long anyway but still should be good for like a year. I also bought a siphon for the car as a back up last resort. for now I just plug the air stones into the APC UPS which when that runs out it still has oxygen going in. That's mainly for if I'm away. I only went with the UPS at first because the slightest glitch in power would knock out the Biocube32 lights and would have to re-program. But after a saw I can get a few hours attaching the pump that's my choice now for a short term outage. but yes, I recommend that gentent.
 

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Tri-fuel inverter generators are now a thing and I'm seriously considering the one made by Champion.
 
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aaron186

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If you have natural gas service, a whole house stand-by natural gas generator is probably your best choice. I have solar, but that is what I would choose if we got frequent power outages. The ROI on adding $15k in batteries is just not there when I could add the generator for half that and you get power indefinitely as long as natural gas service is on, rather than being dependent on whether you get enough sun and/or your solar array can recharge the batteries enough during the day.

My buddy did a DIY battery for his solar, that is really the only way a battery would be worth it to me, when you can save enough on labor to oversize the battery so you don't have to compromise.
Natural gas is pretty rare in Florida. I wish we had it. The HOAs here also prevent permanent outside generators in a lot of places. My HOA allows them, but not the burried propane tank I would need for it to make sense. I’d like to get solar eventually but the install costs are too high right now to make financial sense.
 

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Just an update:
My servomaster power station was on the fedex vehicle for delivery today by 8:30 pm. 9 pm came and it’s not here, and the tracking shows it’s now in another town 45 min away from me and FedEx says it will arrive “by July 25”

FedEx is literally the worst (at least the ones by me)
 

KStatefan

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everywhere is at best low risk of something, and low risk does not mean no risk.

One of the longest recent power outages here was due to a squirrel at a transformer station. Power went at at 8 am and was back on at about 3 in the afternoon. They had to get the transformer from a different location.

It can/will happen at some point.

One thing I have not seen mentioned in this thread is the ability to set charge speed. I think this is an important option to have. What you do not want to happen it for the power to go out for a couple hours then when the power comes back on you blow a breaker because in addition to all your tank equipment running you are pulling additional power to charge and overload your circuit.

My Ecoriver 2 Pro will pull 940 watts at the max charge speed, which is about half the capacity of a 15 amp circuit.
 

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One of the longest recent power outages here was due to a squirrel at a transformer station. Power went at at 8 am and was back on at about 3 in the afternoon. They had to get the transformer from a different location.

It can/will happen at some point.

One thing I have not seen mentioned in this thread is the ability to set charge speed. I think this is an important option to have. What you do not want to happen it for the power to go out for a couple hours then when the power comes back on you blow a breaker because in addition to all your tank equipment running you are pulling additional power to charge and overload your circuit.

My Ecoriver 2 Pro will pull 940 watts at the max charge speed, which is about half the capacity of a 15 amp circuit.
Both great points. I had a several hour outage from forest trees needing to be pruned

The eco flow river pro 2 has an impressive 900w charge speed and does not need a power brick. It can charge 768wh to 100% in 70 min

The servomaster it’s a slightly slower but still very high charge speed of 800w and does not need a power brick. It can charge 1000wh in 90 min

My big blue cellpowa 600 has a 300w charge speed and does not need a power brick. It can charge 537 wh to 80% in 1.6 hours and 100% in 2 hours

If power comes back for a short period of time it’s important to charge as fast as you can. And all these models will charge automatically and function as a ups

A 15 amp circuit can handle 1800 watts but you really shouldn’t exceed 80% for prolonged time.

These battery boxes charge to about 75% at full speed then slow (low watt) charge the rest.
 
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