Need some Help Please.

Humblefish

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no fl

its funny sometimes the eye gets the black middle back and sometimes it goes away, the eyes are not puffy at all well might be just a little but i wen tahead and fw the orange also just casue it seemed the purple was swimming around better or lets say not swimming on bottom. they handled the fw fine breathing was heavy but only went 4 minutes,you would think i would of saw something by then correct.
ill try to take a pic of them now

It's possible the FW dip relieved parasites in the gills. It works for sure with velvet & brook; not so sure about ich trophonts because those are more deeply embedded. But that is not something you would see fall off, as external parasites are invisible to the naked eye in all forms.

If you start to see swelling around the eyes, you can add a little Epsom salt to the water to help relieve the swelling. 1 tablespoon per 5 gals. This is in no way a replacement for the antibiotics but just a little something that might help relieve their symptoms.
 
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I can't take a good pic

20151021_110732.jpg
 

melypr1985

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You dont want to leave the nori in there long enough to start breaking down and rotting. I only leave it in there for a few hours then remove it. If they arn't eating it all, then just keep replacing it for them. Only put in a small amount at a time so you dont waste as much nori and there isn't as much to decay.
 

Humblefish

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You dont want to leave the nori in there long enough to start breaking down and rotting. I only leave it in there for a few hours then remove it. If they arn't eating it all, then just keep replacing it for them. Only put in a small amount at a time so you dont waste as much nori and there isn't as much to decay.

+1 Nori breaks down quickly, so you will have to net out all the tiny pieces or they will clog up your HOB.

Have you tried soaking the nori (and other food) in garlic to entice the fish to eat?
 

melypr1985

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I would absolutely give them some hiding places so they feel more secure and less stressed. Some pvc fittings/elbows work nicely as well as clay pots.
 
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GOTCHA I really appreciate yalls help through this, Ive been in this hobby 3 years and never lost a fish and im so outta sync on qt and hospital tanks ,Ive learned alot but its not the way i want to learn with dieing fish, i got new anti coming tomorrow and going to try them , the fish ate when i held it in front of there face, the OST really went crazy but the purple not so good.. least it was something
 

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Your doing good. Some food is better than No food right? Keep up the good work. :)
 

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Just my 2 cents on hyposalinity... it has been proven to treat ich and ich only. If it turns out to be velvet, and many times velvet looks like ich in the early stages, your fish will die in hypo treatment. This is why copper is a necessary evil IMO - it treats both ich and velvet. So you are covered both ways.

For those who wish to employ hypo to treat ich, here are 3 things you need to know:
  1. Take a full 48 hours to gradually lower the SG down to 1.009. Treat for 30 consecutive days, and during that time the SG must always remain at 1.009. If it inches up even slightly, the 30 day clock restarts.
  2. Because it is so imperative to hold the line at exactly 1.009 you need to use a perfectly calibrated refractometer and auto top off system when performing hypo. Some people like to drop it down to 1.008 to afford themselves a little wiggle room, but I know people who have lost fish that way. :(
  3. "More recently, studies have demonstrated different salinity tolerances among strains of Cryptocaryon. Yambot (2003) described one Taiwanese outbreak occurring in sea bream Sparus sarba at a salinity of 5 g/L, and another outbreak in sea perch Lates calcarifer occurring at a salinity of 10 g/L. These two strains were successfully propagated in the laboratory at 7 and 10 g/L, respectively, and are well below previously documented preferred salinities." *
* Quoted directly from this link: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/fa164
The lower salinity also kills flat worms as well, tried and true :) I like lowering the salinity in my quarantine tanks to help eliminate parasites, plus it is less of a shock to the fish when gining a few dip.
 
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^^I would listen to this nice lady. ;) If flukes are present, that means a very different treatment from the antibiotics you are currently using. You would use Prazipro to treat flukes, but it is dicey mixing prazi with other meds due to the Oxybispropanol it contains. Only copper seems to be safe to mix it with.

If you follow the instructions I posted previously on doing a FW dip, the fish will be fine afterwards. Use a dark bucket and look for tiny white specks falling out of the fish (especially out of the gills.) If no flukes are present, I suggest adding these two medications to the Furan-2 you are already using: Kanaplex & Metroplex. Some strains of bacterial infections are very nasty. They require broader treatment and it can take up to 10 days of continuous treatment before the fish shows signs of recovery.
okay well i found out i can add this stuff to furan .. going to start it now
 

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You have gotten good advice so far. I think your tangs have been tussling and have gotten a bad infections. If possible I would qt them separately to avoid further injuries. If another qt is not possible you need places for them to hide and keep the tank dark when you are not feeding or inspecting the fish. The eye may never look perfectly clear again but you are looking for a return of normal behavior and sight. I have a freshwater fish that has permanent silver eyes due to damage but she lives a great life.
 

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