So do you glue the side panels to the bottom glass or just use the silicon and do you leave a gap between the panels? Awesome work I just want to be able to replicate the same thing
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There is NEVER a glue. High quality silicone is your adhesive. Some people use rubber clear tabs to keep a "wanted gap" I do it by eye, but I've been doing this for 25 years.So do you glue the side panels to the bottom glass or just use the silicon and do you leave a gap between the panels? Awesome work I just want to be able to replicate the same thing
It actually is very easy once you have the technic and timing down.
The key is everything cleaned, prepped, and all tools, silicones and clamps all lined out and ready. Once you start a panel you have to go through the entire steps all at once and quickly so the seams are esthetically pleasing, and strong.
I never have, as you can probably tell from my posts, I'm not the best writer around......Have you ever done a write up outlining the process and tools needed? I'd love to read one and give this a try at some point.
I never have, as you can probably tell from my posts, I'm not the best writer around......
it's what the industry calls, "Seamed Glass Edges" no need to waste money on machine beveled and polished edges. Would have raised the glass price by $400.00 to be machine bevel polished.wow! youre clipping along! so the euro bracing is glass? how will you keep from cutting yourself on the edge?
2 drain lines, 1 is a 3" bulkhead sch 80 the other is a 1" bulkhead emergency overflow.I’m thinking of a tank with an overflow like that, do you use two drain lines? Where do the return lines go?
More pics of skimmer??
Somewhat. But in his case, he doesn't need a eurobrace and only has it for a little shelf on top tankNot that I know anything about building a large tank and I am not trying to be critical or anything just asking. Doesnt that gap remove the effectiveness of the euro brace?
That is what I figured, and the long braces are attached to 3 side walls also probably adding most of the bracing needed. Really just like to see reasoning on these things as I am looking at possibly getting a really large tank that will need resealing, it also has black trim (not sure why and probably why it wasnt ever used in the lfs) that will be replaced with euro brace if and when this happens. I have built a few smaller tanks and resealed a 75 removing trim and euro bracing it, Nothing this large though.Somewhat. But in his case, he doesn't need a eurobrace and only has it for a little shelf on top tank
It does remove a small amount of effectiveness, but the chord management was more important to me as the Euro Bracing is more for a work shelf than it is for support strength. The only flex I was worried about was the long sides of 72" and they are siliconed on 3 surfaces. Thanks for commenting, because it helps the entire forum members following understand different processes that are possible.Not that I know anything about building a large tank and I am not trying to be critical or anything just asking. Doesnt that gap remove the effectiveness of the euro brace?